New to Supra Turbos, a couple of questions

[cbpldc]

Hey all,
Figured I would post up a couple of issues and see if anyone had experienced this before. First, I need a Cam Position sensor cover? And it leaks oil, so where is the best place to get this item and the o-ring? Will a dealer be able to get it? Oh, the car is an 89 Supra turbo automatic.

Second, the car is slow. Like, I don't feel the turbo really kicking in, nor do I see more than what appears to be 5 psi of boost. The turbo has very little shaft play side to side or front to back and appears to be in perfect working order. The car also has a new head gasket, ARP head studs, new front and rear main seals and timing belt, as well as a new (used) transmission that shifts nicely. But it's slow. Like, Scion TC pulls away from me in the midrange slow, and he wasn't trying hard. Someone suggested that perhaps my exhaust is restrictive, and it has the factory cats and a cheapo muffler with crimped bends, so maybe this is my issue.

Third, the heat works, but the blower motor doesn't respond to any inputs when I change from low to med to high. The green light only lights occasionally, but most of the time its off.

Any ideas or places to start?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[88supraproject]

check out driftmotion for the cps cover and o-ring .

not sure about the "feels slow" but it only has about 230hp stock. get a 3" turbo back and an intake and it should feel a bit a faster.

 

[Keros]

The exhaust system being restrictive from the bends or being stock sized will only account for a hardly noticable difference in acceleration. Maybe what one could measure as 15hp.

But, the problem is that if it is a stock exhaust, the primary cat could be clogged. Look at your downpipe off the back of the turbine, if there's a cat there, that may be the culprit; it likes to get clogged up after a few years... decades... and keep a ton of heat in the engine bay. The secondary cat isn't much friendlier. Replace or remove them. But regardless, unless they're totally plugged this will only get you a few more percent.

The real big problem you may have is a boost leak, this can literally cut your power under boost in half, or worse. Build a boost leak tester and pressure test your system. There's a bunch of threads about how to do it.

A basic explanation of a boost leak is that the turbo is compressing air but that air never makes it to the engine... it simply leaks out to atmosphere. I'm sure you see the problem!

 

[IwantMKIII]

^ you should see quite a bit more than 15hp from a full 3" setup. If the cat is clogged, expect a significant improvement.

As for the o-ring, just get it at toyota, probably quicker and its not like its pricey.

The blower motor may have gone. If it has, that really sucks unfortunately for you. Check any fuses associated with it, and if they all check out you may be pulling you dash. IIRC you have to pull it to get to the blower motor, i could be wrong though as i've never done it.

 

[gaboonviper85]

^ you should see quite a bit more than 15hp from a full 3" setup. If the cat is clogged, expect a significant improvement.

think he was refering to a stock turbo feels like boost only adds about 15 hp in a bone stock config.

Add a full exhaust system and it will wake the car up...

 

[IwantMKIII]

think he was refering to a stock turbo feels like boost only adds about 15 hp in a bone stock config.

Add a full exhaust system and it will wake the car up...

I see what you're saying but even after rereading several times, i don't think so. Either way, its very poorly worded. And the stock turbo would add much more than 15hp, even at stock boost.

 

[mkiii racer x]

It could be any one of the problems posted but also check the coupling comin off the throttle body and all intercooling piping and couplings

 

[kneedragger85]

Third, the heat works, but the blower motor doesn't respond to any inputs when I change from low to med to high. The green light only lights occasionally, but most of the time its off.

Any ideas or places to start?

Thanks,
Chris

Replace the climate control box with a junker you can test. The button should stay down/pressed and should be lit above it. I had that issue with the windshield vent and floor vent button not staying lit and just swapped in a working box.