New oil system (filter relocation, full flow cooler)

drostar

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Apr 24, 2005
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So as part of my rebuild, I'm thinking I should try improve the oil system to help avoid future rod knock. I decided not to shim oil pump because it doesn't start opening until 40psi anyway. I did put in a brand new oil pump in though. So instead I thought I'd stop the unnecessary dumping of oil back into the pan by going with a full flow oil cooler setup.

Please take a look at my flow diagram and let me know if this is the right idea. I want to add an aftermarket oil pressure sensor and an oil temperature sensor so that is why the sandwich plate is in there. I may find other ways to add those sensors, but that's what I'm going with for now.

p800343_1.jpg
 

adampecush

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May 11, 2006
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Looks good, I'll be going with the same setup using -8 lines, a mocal 180F thermostat (just arrived today), an earls cooler and relocation adapter, and a prosport sandwich plate.
 

jdub

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Your diagram looks good, except for one small detail...you will have to either loop a line between the in/out of the sandwich plate or drill several holes inside to allow the oil to flow between the two sides. You will need an NA filter stud to mount the plate & adapter.

Adam's call on the T-stat is good...cooler wise, I like the stacked plate coolers (B&M, Earl's, Tru-Cool). Don't cheap out on the lines...use -8 at min.

I would shim the pump. Once you remove the stock filter head, the 40 psi opening limit in the filter bypass no longer applies. Shim the pump using washers no more than 5mm thick...you'll get an additional 10-20 psi of pressure.
 

drostar

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jdub, I thought I just had to plug the unused ports on the sandwich plate? I was looking at this sandwich plate http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250176980039


Also, I went and looked up that Mocal thermostat and found it here http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal.htm . And then I noticed on the same page they have a Mocal Sandwich adapter that has a built in Thermostat for less then the external theromostat. This would simplify the install of the T-stat controlled oil cooler. Is this t-stat sandwich plate any good?
 

jdub

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Most sandwich plates are designed to feed a cooler...the sides are separate with a line going "out", returning to the "in" on the opposite side. This one looks like it's designed for the purpose you have in mind...never seen one like this...good find ;)
You should be able to block the unused holes like you said...just make sure the sides are connected with a good size hole (or multiple holes) to allow flow to the filter (and back to the motor). Also make sure it uses 3/4 -16 threads for mounting to the NA stud and filter adapter.

I have the Mocal sandwich plate you're talking about...the hole for flow between the sides before the T-stat closes is not very big (approx 1/4"). However, oil will still flow to the cooler circuit before the stat closes...how much is going to depend on resistance to oil flow. If the cooler circuit presents the most resistance (not likely), oil will flow through the hole in the middle of the plate. What I think happens is the flow is about 50/50 with the Mocal plate until the stat closes, then all the oil goes through the cooler. I also tested this plate to determine when the stat actually does close by heating up some water in a pan with a very accurate thermometer...the stat actually started to close at 160 deg F, completely closed at 180 deg F. I had to machine the plug the stat moves to get a more accurate temp for closing and had to enlarge the hole it blocks when closed to get more flow through the middle until the oil heats up to ops temp. IMO, this thermostat sandwich plate is not optimum for a 7M...the stat that you show (the Mocal is fine), would be a better choice.

BTW - I'm using the Mocal plate on my Toyota Truck...not as critical as a turbo motor ;)
 

jdub

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You're welcome!

That sandwich plate you linked to can be very useful...sensors, etc like you want to do. Keep in mind though, a pressure sensor may show lower than in the stock location on the block due to the volume of the cooler circuit it feeds. Temps will show those that exist before the oil hits the cooler and returns to the motor...may be a bit higher than you expect.

Take a look at this thread too:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55287

With the multiple ports, this plate could also be used to feed a bypass filter like the Motor Guard...mounted in the bracket where the charcoal canister is (you would need to flip the bracket).
http://www.bypassfilter.com/MotorGuardFilters.htm
The return would go where the old cooler dumped into the pan. You would need a JDM canister to relocate in the aft fender well to keep the evap system working as designed.

Enough of the oil geek stuff...that plate you showed me got me thinking ;)
If you get that sandwich plate, I'd appreciate some pics of it.
 

drostar

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Apr 24, 2005
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Been a while but I finally had a chance to try out the GlowShift oil filter sandwich plate for adding sensors.

Here are some pics.

p842376_1.jpg

p842376_2.jpg

p842376_3.jpg


The quality of the unit looks very well made. Feels solid. Smooth edges.

But there seems to be a problem with the thread insert. I can't get it to thread all the way into my Earl's remote filter adapter. It is the correct thread (compared it to the Toyota bolt) and I can thread it in part way, but then it just stops and won't go in any further. It's not the Earl's adapter because I can thread the Toyota filter bolt into it just fine.

There's a small smoosh in the thread of the GlowShift adapter thread insert making the thread at that point wider than it should be. I think this is where it is stopping.

p842376_4.jpg


I emailed Glowshift about it so we'll see what they say.
 

Piratetip

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Dec 30, 2005
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Save time and run a die over it.

I just went full flow, and I am glad I did.
Pressures are higher and stable now.
It is well worth it.
 

drostar

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Apr 24, 2005
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Any idea where I might find a 3/4" die? I checked the local hardware store and the biggest they have is 1/2".
 

jdub

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suprageezer said:
One question, if the optimal oil temp is 212° as stated on the AE Hass web site, and the oil into cooler tstat is 180° is this tstat temp really what you want?



You want to cooler circuit to open up a bit before the 100 deg C (210 deg F) temp oil likes to be at inside the engine. The temp will continue to climb and then stabilize at the point when the cooler can get rid of the heat. If it's a big cooler, the temp will drop and the thermostat will close. It's going to depend on how hard the engine is run (heat production) vs how efficient the cooler is getting rid of the heat. The difference in viscosity at 180 deg compared to 210 deg is small. This is a safe range for oil temps, especially on a street car.

What you don't want to happen is have the oil temp shoot up to the 250 deg range...viscosity is not linear above 210 deg F...it will drop pretty quickly and break down will begin to occur at 250 deg.
 

tsuper92

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Apr 7, 2005
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sorry to thread-jack.i was wondering if anybody viewing this thread has used this earl's one.i haven't run it yet and would like some feedback on it.i'm going to run it with some an-10 hose to external oil cooler.the filter should be easy enough to change mounted to it with no relocator.
p846180_1.jpg
 

jdub

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That Earls sandwich plate is excellent...machined out of billet aluminum...can't get much better than that ;)
I do believe IJ uses one of those.

Just make sure the filter clears the turbo manifold...a remote filter would make it a lot easier to change though.
 

tsuper92

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thanks for the info jdub.this is bolted to my 2j and the filter is on the intake side.the only clearance issue should be if i try to run the ac compressor
 

jdub

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Ahhh...your profile said 1JZ. Shouldn't be a problem then...it is easier to get to your filter when it's under the front fender headlight :naughty: