new motor

[ians13]

well i got a new motor comming, going to put a metal HG in it should i get studs or bolts for the head. i read some were that studs make it hard to repair a blown HG with the motor in the car.

also am thinking this motor i will want to run 12psi on it what kind of tunning will i need to safely run this boost level.

 

[oscolivar1]

well i got a new motor comming, going to put a metal HG in it should i get studs or bolts for the head. i read some were that studs make it hard to repair a blown HG with the motor in the car.

also am thinking this motor i will want to run 12psi on it what kind of tunning will i need to safely run this boost level.

studs can fit just a little more effort to put it in compared to bolts....
what turbo are u using for 12 psi???
the motor can handle 12 psi from a CT26 if the motor is done right etc etc
for tuning for a bigger turbo or more power, SAFC, maftpro, ems, wideband AFPR, (air feul press. regulator), lex afm if u go that route get the one u can adjust,

 

[ians13]

well i got a new motor comming, going to put a metal HG in it should i get studs or bolts for the head. i read some were that studs make it hard to repair a blown HG with the motor in the car.

also am thinking this motor i will want to run 12psi on it what kind of tunning will i need to safely run this boost level.

well it's going to be on the stock ct26
will i need fuel pump ,afc, fpr or will the stock fuel system handle this.

 

[jdub]

without getting technical, ARP studs provide better clamping force for the head to block for a given torque. Bolts will also work fine. Removing the head later is really no problem with the studs...you do have to get the head higher to get it off. Just take the hood off the car. Speaking of torque, use the torque spec sheet tha comes with the ARP hardware.

A caution - there is a lot more to installing a MHG on the 7M than choosing studs or bolts. The block/head both have to be resurfaced to the required RA spec, the front plate has to be machined w/ the block, MHG rivets may have to be removed, no spray sealer on a new MHG...getting the idea? There's more...do some research...it's all been discussed here.

Concerning 12 psi - you will be pushing fuel cut at that boost. Fuel upgrades are a very good idea, but not required...you just do not want to have detonation occur. The Lex AFM, 550 injectors, Adj FPR, and Walbro pump is a very common mod to do all this. A wideband O2 will tell you what the AFR's are doing...an AFC will give you more tuning ability.

 

[oscolivar1]

edit ...

i typed a whole bunch of info but,
john beat me to the punch...

 

[johnathan1]

Won't the knock sensors retard timing if they sense that detonation is about to occur? Or am I way off?

 

[jdub]

Won't the knock sensors retard timing if they sense that detonation is about to occur? Or am I way off?

They will...However...

You go lean under boost...old fuel pump, stock FPR, 440 injectors...ECU may not have time to react and BANG. This is where the wideband O2 becomes very useful

 

[7MsuprO]

They will...However...

You go lean under boost...old fuel pump, stock FPR, 440 injectors...ECU may not have time to react and BANG. This is where the wideband O2 becomes very useful

I know nothing about widebands. Does this mean that the wideband can/will alert you if your AF goes out of range or do you have to be paying attention to what its telling you? Thanks.

 

[jdub]

I know nothing about widebands. Does this mean that the wideband can/will alert you if your AF goes out of range or do you have to be paying attention to what its telling you? Thanks.

I have a PLX...it's a digital display I have mounted on top of my steering column. You have to pay attention to what it's telling you. The AEM has a gauge LED display w/ a digital read out. You still have to pay attention, but the red light LED's give you a visual clue you're going lean.

Keep in mind lean is not always bad...at idle or running at 60 mph under vac, I will show 15.1-15.3 AFR. That's normal....the danger is under boost...especially high boost. The stock ECU will enrichen the mixture to prevent detonation...a low AFR helps keep the combustion chamber temp cool.

 

[starscream5000]

Get that headgasket put on there and installed correct first. I'm leaning more towards ARP studs . Make sure the rest of the internals are good to go before you up the boost. Since your taking off the head, this will be a good time to do so.

 

[ians13]

payed for it yesturday got it today. it looks good pressure washed , as the spark plug gally was full of water, but after taking off the valve cover it was spot less very clean toyota spark plugs wires timing belt the timing belt tensioner still has the original paint on it. i can read the serial number on the timing belt. also this motor has no egr system should i put it back on. am raplacing every single hose on this motor $137 in hoses from toyota, new timing belt and every gasket and seal will also be replaced.

am stoked as to how clean it was inside i will take some pic's and post them up.

 

[johnathan1]

Nice! It's good that you are replacing everything..better safe than sorry . The motor sounds like it is in pretty good shape, hopefully you won't have any problems with it.

 

[ians13]

Nice! It's good that you are replacing everything..better safe than sorry . The motor sounds like it is in pretty good shape, hopefully you won't have any problems with it.

i hope so to