Hi i just installed a new clutch and master cylinder,new lines and i bleed the clutch and the pedal will not get resistance all the way,missing an inch cant get gears in,am i doing it wrong,do i need to replace slave cylinder too???any ideas,thx.
New clutch,master cylinder bleed prob.
- Thread starter supra92turbo
- Start date
Try bench bleeding the master. Air can get trapped in all kinds of little hiding places in a master. If your slave cylinder is leaking, then replace it, otherwise it should be fine.
supra92turbo;1346486 said:
Ignore rayall as he talks just to hear his own voice!
You say you have like an inch of pure free play in the pedal? If so, reach up the pedal with your right hand till you feel the shaft from the master cylinder...break the jam nut loose (the little nut behind the U joint that connect the pedal) then spin the shaft while jiggling the clutch pedal with the left hand....this is how you adjust the clutch pedal and will let the clutch properly disenguage!
If you need better details as how to adjust the pedal just ask...its really easy once you figure it out and takes a whopping 10 seconds to do!
Bench bleeding is to remove the whole master cylinder and submerge it in brake fluid to help purge air.....it's a waist of time and honestly very Stupid for something so simple! Don't do it!
10 seonds?!!?! Not mine! I think my lock nut was welded on. Or maybe it was cast on the shaft as one part. The bolt stripped, and every muscle below the shoulders spasamed.
Other wise, it woulda been a 10 second job. If only...
Other wise, it woulda been a 10 second job. If only...
FullNelson;1346533 said:
Righty tighty lefty loosy!
I don't tighten the jam nut...it's not worth the effort...I just reach down about once a month and re adjust!
gaboonviper85;1346511 said:
Ok,thx this might be the problem,ill try that tommorow,and ill give some feedback.
gaboonviper85;1346516 said:
Excuse me? Where did you learn to bench bleed? Do it the ultra hard way if you like, but I prefer to do it the right way, by taking a short brake line, and looping it back to the reservoir. Doesn't even need to be taken out of the car. And learn to spell!
Thx viper that was the problem if i would have been smarter i would have cheked my hanes before asking:3d_frown:
supra92turbo;1348139 said:
You will not find the answer in here:
Use this:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/
Wish my undies would fix my car! And the diagram in there seemed to have two lock nuts, and their not even on the shaft. Must be out dated.
supra92turbo;1348139 said:
dude its all good! you just didnt know so you asked a logical question....you got the answer you needed! thats what supramania is all about.
i was correct...you were not....you didnt pay attention to what he was asking and the info he provided....i did....i win...you fail...now you can try to make me look bad with spelling etc but the story ends with me helping him and you spouting off at the mouth.
gaboonviper85;1348442 said:
Let's Imagine that there was a small air bubble trapped in the master cylinder. If you increase the piston travel enough, you can compensate for the air bubble, and it may work, but that would be fixing the symptom, not the problem. I didn't say it definitely was air related, but it well could have been, and a simple on the car bench bleed would have fixed it. Since I have a few different brake lines, already setup to do this, it probably would have taken ten or fifteen minutes for me to do it, but it would have taken him a little more, since he lacks the experience, and probably the short brake line as well. You're method of bleeding would have taken a lot longer, and been quite messy. And lastly, it IS about helping, and both of us were trying to help, but if I turned out to be right, I wouldn't have been an asshole about it.
there is no fluid in the master when new. bench bleeds puts fluid into the master so when you attach the line there is less bleeding to do. not necessary but can help the bleeding process greatly. personal pref weather or not you want to do it but it is not a waste of time.
just replaced my master and didnt bench bleed... the system is BASIC. Yes you will have to pull the pedal off the floor the first 5-6 times you pump it but that is it. New clutch shouldnt affect the hydraulics unless you opened the system up! Adjusting the pedal should be done per the tsrm though. Incorrect pedal height will hinder this, and is why its adjusted first...
Bleed -adjust- bleed again to be sure..
shaeff's link is good
Bleed -adjust- bleed again to be sure..
shaeff's link is good