need some help! anyone??

[mclabaugh]

i got my 5spd swap/head gasket change/everything done today. it has been in work for a couple of months. i need it to accelerate properly.

i got it to fire up after i set the ignition timing. it will idle perfectly now. it will not accelerate easily after 3k rpm. but it will make it to 4k if i ease the pedal. and it wont take punching the throttle at idle or in gear.

i have put aftermarket headers, AEM intake, r154 tranny w/SOGI mod, cruise deleted, and egr deleted. i replaced all gaskets with new. all hoses were marked upon removal. double checked the engine timing, and set the ignition timing to 10 degrees. right now it is open headers no catback. there are 2 or 3 vacuum hoses that need to be capped. but i dont think that it will affect this issue.

any help is appreciated. thanks in advance.

mike.

 

[cuel]

Vacuum line from the idle up valve on the power steering hooked up to the intake correctly?

Doesn't really sound like a vacuum leak, but maybe a fuel or spark issue. New wires and plugs? How's the fuel pressure? I'd also check the plugs at the tps and afm. Make sure the connections are tight, and harness is in good shape.

 

[mclabaugh]

the vacuum on the PS is on and all my connectors are connected. i've had nothing but time to look over the connectors and hoses.

it had bad gas in it when i first started it up. but it still idled good. but wouldnt accelerate smoothly or above 3k rpm. but since then i drained the old fuel and put in 5 gallons of good gas. maybe there was some bad gas still in the lines but i drove it for about 15 mins. and still now change.

 

[cuel]

Have you checked codes?

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Did you time it with the jumper wire per TSRM?

 

[mclabaugh]

ill check the codes tommorow. and yes i made the jumper wire for the timing procedd. thanks i'll get back to ya'll.
mike.

 

[Rennat]

in your first post you state that your going to cap "2 or 3 vacuum hoses"... uhh... why?

the engine is designed to run with certain things on, and if you remove them, you expect the car to run exactly the same?

but i did have the same issue when i had redone my timing belt, and my timing was at 0 degrees... make sure you put a paper clip into the diagnostic ports that you have to, and make sure the check engine light is constantly flashing on and off at a set rate... if not, you got codes!

 

[mclabaugh]

the vacuum that I unplugged were from the egr delete. but since then i have capped those lines.

i have not checked engine codes yet. but i am thinking it could be plugged fuel filter or injectors, from the old gas that was in there when i first started it up. or maybe since i deleted the egr, it needs to be advance on the timing?

before i do anything else i will check the codes. i work my long day today. 16hrs. so i will check tommorow. but if anyone has any ideas post em up , i will be checking in throughout the day.

thanks.
mike.

 

[benchwarmer]

Your TPS may require adjustment. I would also check the block-off plates from your EGR delete to make sure they are sealed correctly.

 

[mclabaugh]

i didnt get to the codes today either. but i looked in the TSRM and couldnt find the proper way to check the codes..anyone have the link??

the egr plates are sealed with high temp red rtv.

ive triple-quadruple checked the timing belt..it is dead nuts were it is supposed to be. and set the ignition to 10 degrees..with timing light and the terminals crossed per TSRM.

i am trying to locate a fuel pressure guage to check that i have proper fuel pressure.. could just starting the car with bad gas clog the fuel filter that quick??

 

[dumbo]

i'll bet your problem is that you took off your egr- since your not running a jdm ecu. theres a HUGE post on it here somwhere-search it.

and to check codes you jumper e1 and te1 i belive-search it.

 

[cuel]

http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

The pic at the top shows how to jumper to check codes. Most people use a paper clip. I made an insulated wire jumper with fine strand wire and small male leads, more like the original SST.

EGR delete isn't gonna keep the car from running as long as the plates are sealed, and all the ports are blocked. Running correctly, maybe, but not from running.

check the fuel pump

The first test will tell you if the pump is working. The next set tells you how to check pressure.

Are you getting spark?

 

[mclabaugh]

ckecked codes just now, i got a code 51.. TPS. i tuned that right before my auto tranny went out. it was right per the tsrm. and when i took the head off i didnt touch the tps. do you think it may need to be readjusted now?
it idle better to day and took some more pedal..i am fixing to road test again..

 

[mclabaugh]

i tried tweakin the tps a little, still the same problem, so i put it back where it was marked previously..now i need to check the fuel flow.
i need some kind of adaptor for the fuel line to match my guage because of the thru bolt on the cold start injector..
does anyone know another way to check??

 

[dumbo]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80267&highlight=egr+delete

might be of interest, i also was gonna take of my egr till i read this. i dont think bad gas itself would plug a filter.

 

[mclabaugh]

i read the above thread..it was very long and didnt say anything about the same problem i am having.
i have my old egr. i will try putting it back on this weekend and see if that solves anything.
i looked and read pretty deep into egr deleting and didnt think that it would cause the issues that i am having now.

 

[dumbo]

i read the above thread..it was very long and didnt say anything about the same problem i am having.
i have my old egr. i will try putting it back on this weekend and see if that solves anything.
i looked and read pretty deep into egr deleting and didnt think that it would cause the issues that i am having now.

do you got a a/f gauge?? i'm not saying that it IS your problem but as you can see it really isn't recomened. i've been thinking about this post and its tough

 

[mclabaugh]

i went ahead and replaced the fuel filter, due the fact i thought it may have been plugged up from the old gas that was in the tank when i first started it up, it was definately cheaper than a fuel pressure tester....still no dice.

i was able to scrounge up a good fuel tester from my local mazda dealer..i will be testing system pressure tomorrow.

my matco man used to be a toyota master tech and he said he doubts it has anything to do with fuel. but may be the EGR. but still may be the TPS because that is the code i am getting..

i just want to get the beast running right..

 

[cuel]

You can get a new TPS from Auto Zone for less than $100, iirc. It's a Toyota part, as well. Make sure that the groove in the back of the new one is clocked the same as the old one. This might help you test the tps a bit better:
TPS pinout Instead of testing for resistance, test for voltage.

Voltage testing:

E2: ground
IDL .029v closed, 12.xxv open(should be battery voltage)
VTA .536v closed, 3.5v open
VC 5.01v closed, 5.01v open

Test through the back of the harness(plugged in to the tps), with the key on, engine off. Your ground lead goes to E2, and your positive lead goes to the other wires.

Posts 13 and 14 here

 

[mclabaugh]

thanks cuel! you are a true badass!! i will check the voltage on the tps tomorrow.