Need some help. 2JZ won't crank by hand.

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Just spent the weekend on the Supra to replace my old leaking oil pump.


Pulled the engine, pulled oil pans, timing components. Replaced oil pump, o-rings, put the pans back on, bolted the tranny back together, dropped the engine back in. I even had time to make a whole new exhaust, and it came out great. I went to crank up the car once everything was done, and to my dismay, the car wouldn't crank.

When I say it won't crank, I mean, BY HAND, it will not turn over. I tried to spin it backwards and it will move a few degrees and then CLUNK. Then spin it forward, and it will spin a few degrees and then CLUNK. What the hell could it be?? I'm running the Aristo 2JZ with auto trans.

Here's EXACTLY how it went:
-Pulled oil pans, timing components, separated trans just enough to pull upper pan, etc.
-Replaced oil pump, timing components, seals, etc.
-Cranked by hand to straighten/tension belt .. turned over fine.
-Pulled a rod cap to check bearings, looked good, put back on to 22ftlb + 90deg (done many times in the past)
-Reinstalled upper oil pan, baffle, pickup, lower pan
-Reinstalled transmission

Now, obviously the part about pulling the rod cap stands out because it's internal. However, I am iffy about the transmission installation. I feel that the torque converter bolts are hitting the splines on the back of the block. That would explain everything. When the transmission was being mated to the block, it kind of went at an angle.. but it went.. it worried me at the moment but then again it mated up and everything seemed fine. Now that I'm thinking about it I'm smacking myself in the head.

The question is.. should I pull the lower oil pan and check the cap? Or is that definitely not it.. and I should just pull the tranny.. ?

Thanks for any help, I could also use a pic.. if anyone has a 2JZ with auto if you could take a pic of the inspection cover so I can see how close the bolts are to the edge of the cover.. I'd appreciate it. My bolts damn near touch the edges of the opening and I feel that's abnormal.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Well the 2JZ is not an interference motor with stock cams. There has to be something in the bell housing area stopping you from turning the motor. Try and take out the transmission and then see if it turns free by hand.

Don't pull the pan, you will have to reseal it and what not. Maybe you can remove the torque converter bolts and see if it changes anything? If it's a "clunk," it can't be anything in the motor. If a valve was hitting the piston, it would be pretty hard to hear if you were just turning it by hand and it doesn't make a "clunk" when turning by hand. It has to be something in the transmission area.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

I can't remove the bolts because there will still be a bolt coming from another angle that will hit..

I was considering having the car towed down the street to ATF and having them pull and re-install the trans. I can't picture myself touching it again. All I've wanted since getting through this JZ swap was to have a nice reliable motor that you don't have to pull all the damn time. It ran GREAT for a week and started leaking oil at the pump, I replaced the front seals, spring, valve, etc on the oil pump.. I must have done the timing on this motor 15 times no lie. Then I say screw it, buy a PHR oil pump, new seals, o-rings, everything from Toyota. I spent my weekend (9am-4am Friday and Saturday) replacing it, and telling myself this is the LAST time I have to do any major work on this car for at least a couple years. Then this happens.

I'm very frustrated!

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Also, if this is the case, I will probably need a new flexplate? What else could be damaged? Hopefully not the input shaft on the trans?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Dude, if there will be a bolt that will hit when you turn the motor, that has to be the problem. Nothing should hit anywhere. Was the torque converter seated properly? It was fine before this, no? I am sure if you need a flex plate, I can source one for you or you could go to your local importer and see if they have any laying around. Maybe ATF has some flex plates left after the swaps where they installed a 2JZ to R154 setup.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Dude, if there will be a bolt that will hit when you turn the motor, that has to be the problem.

I completely agree.. however I never was able to confirm this..

 

[S.A. supra]

I have the flex plate from my Aristo. You can have it if you need it.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Thanks, I'll let you know

 

[bioskyline]

its a trans problem, flex plate to torque bolt has slacked off it what it sounds like. only way to fix it really is pull the tranny off the torque and remove once you have room, but you may need a new front tranny seal afterwards.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

its a trans problem, flex plate to torque bolt has slacked off it what it sounds like. only way to fix it really is pull the tranny off the torque and remove once you have room, but you may need a new front tranny seal afterwards.

Can't be that, the car was running fine before tear down.. how would the bolt have come out while sitting?

 

[T701jz]

Weren't you turning the crank shaft after each caps were torque to specs?… making sure there is no binding.

 

[ifyouaint1sturlast]

Weren't you turning the crank shaft after each caps were torque to specs?… making sure there is no binding.

One cap only. And, come to think of it, yes I did rotate it after.. We've already determined it was the tranny. I spoke with the people at ATF as well.