Need some advice on a knocking 7mgte

[CSquared]

Long read... Sorry

Well, I hoped this day would never come but my car developed rod knock about 2 months ago (really minor but getting worse). This car has been with me through better and worse but unfortunately it decided to go at a time where I have absolutely no funding (which is why I've had to drive it around in this condition).

I'm looking at my options which seem to be as follows... I need your advice on both a general and technical level:

1. Get a used 7m from an engine importer ($1200-ish)

I am definitely leaning away from this because I hate the prospect of buying a motor for 1200 bucks, dropping it in, then taking the chance of being in the same damn predicament (rod knock or BHG) a few months down the road because I don't know anything about it's actual condition.

2. Do a full rebuild ($3000+)

To be completely honest, all funding for whatever I do is coming from my dad (as my "college graduation present"... he basically just feels bad for me) so spending this much money doesn't really seem like an option... My original vision for this car was to ride out my motor and build another on the side (full performance build) once I started my career and had extra money... If I were to do any build right now it would be a "back to stock" build and that just seems like a waste of money when thinking about my long term goals. (On the short term I am looking to chill for a few years and maybe upgrade the ct26 to be somewhere around 350hp... On the long term, which is many years down the road, I'd like to aim for 500+)

3. Replace only what I "need to replace"(Hopefully under $2000)

I was also thinking about just fixing what "NEEDS" to be fixed which I'm thinking is this... and please let me know if i am missing anything (this would be the major technical aspect I need advice on):

-doing whatever machine work needed
-replacing all engine seals/gaskets
-replacing the rod bearings
-replacing piston rings
-replacing individual rods (if needed)
-replacing individual pistons (if needed)
-replacing the crank (if needed)
-metal head gasket
-arp head studs (have these in the current setup)

-------------------------------------------------

Considering my situation (my budget and the fact that my goal for this motor is only 350hp)... What do you think my best option would be?

On a side note... I will be doing ALL of this work on my own obviously aside from the machine work (I'm not feeling ballsy enough put the bottom end back together on my own but I'd certainly take it apart)... I've owned and worked on this car for 4 years now so I know the motor pretty damn well.

In the end, I just want a setup that will be reliable for a couple of years until i get my stuff together and can afford a daily driver and to build my dream motor.

Thanks,
Chris Cramer

p.s. Inevitably someone will want to say "get rid of the car... or go 1j"... So, please notice that none of those variables are included in my 3 options. ha.

 

[NewWestSupras]

If you shop carefully, you can probably build the motor fairly cheap. There are often deals on here for used forgies and if you're going to go thru all the hassle of rebuilding, may as well build for larger hp down the road. As long as you can afford to take your time, it is cheaper. Mine took 10 months, but I did most of it myself, and mostly weekends. My direct engine work with new pistons was about $2500.00. These aren't the right cars for people without shitloads of cash, though you can do it cheaper if you shop around. gl!

 

[eman2289]

From what I have read, you are a poor college student, as am I. The same thing happened to me, so i went with the cheapest and easiest way, which was the used motor from an importer. I also made a thread about what to do and everyone told me to do a full rebuild. I didnt have the money for it, so i went with the used 7m. Biggest mistake i have made with my car! If i were you, i would buy a shitty 4-cyl for now (civic) for a few hundred, and daily drive that until you have enough money saved up or have a steady income. But if your dad says he will help you pay for it, then go for the full rebuild. There are three things everyone wants with their cars "cheap, power, and reliability" you only get to choose 2 of them.

 

[TooGoode]

looks like you are in the same boat im in....been a month with rodknock on my 7mgte. since im going to be doing all the work myself, im oonly looking to spend MAYBE $1000 that will include new pistons, gaskets, seals, block machined, arp studs, head machined and crank machined, new bearings and any other small hoses/parts that might break along the way. im now completly stock and am going to be aiming for about 350hp. so im gonna build my block up so that it will be able to withstand it. the cheapest things for me are going to be the parts. only $475 my cost for rings, pistons,arp's,gaskets,bearings.....you can do the motor yourself and save fat money:naughty:. there is more thanenough resources here for you to do it on your own! good luck!

 

[ATL88Supra]

well 1st dont run the car in boost, it will last longer, if you plan on useing it more with knock, second get a stocker, is your supra gona be a DD or a Project ?

if its going to be a DD i would go with na 7m till you are out of collage cheap and effective for a DD if its a project get a gte or do a full rebuild and keep the
motor you have NOW as the project motor to build

there are lots of things you can do, in the end its up to you

 

[7thousandpiecesMGTE]

If the 7M is knocking...... dont open the door, they can be mean bastards and might even throw a rod at you....

 

[Scot]

Here's my 2cents.... Someone mentioned getting a Civic until you have the funds to do the work. That is a great idea. You also mentioned a graduation gift from dad. Put that money and whatever else you can scrape up and buy the best Civic you can find.... Cash if at all possible.

Keep the Supra in tact and running. But don't drive it. Running, with a knock, is more valuable than one with the engine torn down. ( in the event you decide to sell it). It also makes it easier to move around your property. Start searching for a used engine... a cheap one... tear that one down and start building the bottom end and then head work.

Get it on an engine stand and store all parts removed in neat order as this could take a few to many months.

Once you get the head bolted onto the block, you can now pull the engine and start doing part swaps from old to new. This will keep down time to minimum and keep you parents from getting wiggy about having a car that doesn't run parked in the front yard! LOL

During this time, that little Civic will be your best friend and keep you mobile at about 30 mpg's. Then you can become one of the the many peeps with a "my Build" thread!

 

[ZFast300Z]

I have to agree with everyone else. It really is in your best opinion to have a daily driver, and keep the supra as a project. I was in high school when I bought my 300zx and it was my daily driver. I ended up doing basic mods to it...i.e. exhaust,downpipe,intercooler,fuel mods. The problem is it was still a daily driver and aside from getting bad fuel mileage on 93 octane, I also had the problem with it needing constant maintenance because it was a 15 year old car. I really wish I would have had a shit box honda to drive around while i went to school, and that would have allowed me to enjoy my Z a lot more.

You shouldn't be spending 2,000 rebuilding the engine if you go with stock. As long as you dont have to overbore and replace the pistons then a standard set of rings, bearings and gaskets shouldnt cost you more then 500 bucks. Last time I had a set of heads (2) and a V-6 block surfaced for a MHG, plus clean, hone, freeze plugs/oil galley plugs replaced I spent about 300 on all that. Remember thats with 2 heads to resurface and 2 deck surfaces on the block to resurface. If you can reassemble it yourself you should be under 1,000.

I would rebuild the engine you have long before i bought a used engine from an importer. But I do recommend Option D: Buy a civic, enjoy getting 30MPG and enjoy the supra way more in the long run

 

[CSquared]

I'm definitely taking the 2nd car idea into account... I do have a running mk2 sitting in my garage that we were building (completely stripped to be raced scca)... but that car is hell to drive in it's current condition.

Just to give you an idea and because I haven't mentioned it yet... Right now I'm running a BIC DDP and test pipe; hks drager; blitz sus intake; cooleze intercooler pipes and intake pipe; greddy type-s bov; and stock toyota head gasket with arp's down to 74lbs; (which has all been done pretty gradually over the 4 years that I've owned the car)

Aside from all that I have an aeromotive afpr, lexus afm, j-tube blockoff, and walbro 255 fuel pump sitting in my closet... So i was just going to grab some 550's, a safc2, an intercooler, and tune before I called it quits on modding the engine for a LOOOONG time (MAYBE 300 whp). I just want a fun daily driver until I have resources to built and maintain any sort of serious setup.

For that reason... Right now I'm leaning wayyyyy towards option 3 but I want to get some feedback on that and make sure it's going to be reliable before I make any decisions along those lines. (car has 140k miles... engine supposedly has less)

 

[ZFast300Z]

Someone already said it, but I'll say it again. FAST, RELIABLE, and CHEAP. Pick 2 of those 3 and you'll have your answer.

In theory, you could drop the subframe, pull the oil pan and replace the one bearing that is bad. We do bearing roll outs on diesel engines as regular maintenance. However I would highly avoid that option.

 

[kotu100]

i say fix it, i bought 2 supras for $800, rebuilt the motor and repainted the car for about $2000 (including the 800 i paid for the cars)
got everything off SM members and Ebay.
you could always sell the parts you have sittin in your closet for some cash to get the parts to rebuild it.

 

[CSquared]

Someone already said it, but I'll say it again. FAST, RELIABLE, and CHEAP. Pick 2 of those 3 and you'll have your answer.

In theory, you could drop the subframe, pull the oil pan and replace the one bearing that is bad. We do bearing roll outs on diesel engines as regular maintenance. However I would highly avoid that option.

Yeah I've seen the fast, reliable, and cheap saying about a million times browsing threads on supramania. lol but does 300hp qualify as being fast?

Although i read the "redneck rodnock fix" thread, I doubt i could ever do that and have a clean conscience afterwards. One thing I know for sure is that this engine will make it's way to a machine shop at some point.

I'm actually talking to tubbie on here (great guy) about buying a running block and head to try out option 3.

i say fix it, i bought 2 supras for $800, rebuilt the motor and repainted the car for about $2000 (including the 800 i paid for the cars)
got everything off SM members and Ebay.
you could always sell the parts you have sittin in your closet for some cash to get the parts to rebuild it.

I would really hate to go chasing that crap around again once it came time to mod the car... I'm pretty sure I'd wind up losing more money in the long run buying those parts again then i saved by selling them off.

 

[MA71_Static]

my 89 developed rodnock about 8 miles after driving from the time of purchase in Oregon and trailering it back to California, anyway I was shopping around and theres a shop here that rebuilds JDM engines and I got my 7m longblock minus manifolds and turbo, just the rebuilt block and head for $750 plus a $100 core and $80 in tax or so. I got it for $930 out the door and picked up my core charge a week later. The place was called Attarco at one point but now I'm pretty sure its now Allied Motors, it's on 2nd street and Virginia in San Jose, maybe they'll ship it to you.