Need experianced advice on setup

[NeoJester]

Ok so my build is all togethar. I had the block completely machined and put in JE pistons and rings, Eagle rods, Arp rod bolts, and cleavite bearings. the head was rebuilt by toyota and the machine shop double checked the surfaces. 1.5mm titan metal head gasket, with arp head studs. New oil/water pumps from toyota. New walburo fuel pump. The turbo is stock. The stock airbox(need to get an adapter plate). Intercooler is stock. I have the stock turbo elbow and an ebay stainless downpipe thats 2.5 at the elbow to 3" pipe. Turboxcess boost controler. Autometer boost gauge. NGK plug wires. Apexi SAFC untuned. w58(i think thats the non-turbo tranny) with a centerforce dual friction clutch. turbo LSD rear end. The car is a combination of years, its a 87 turbo hardtop body and body harness, 89 interior and tail lights, and a 88 7mgte motor, ecu and harness. What do you guys think i can do power wise and 1/4 wise with this set up. What boost do you guys think I should set it to? If i weld a bung on the downpipe and put a Innovate LM-1 on it what should i tune it to with the SAFC? Were are the biggest cheapest gains for me at this point? all input will be most apperciated.

 

[MKIIINA]

first off the usual bump rate is once a day, not 45 minutes.

youll probibly hit about stock numbers. maybe a touch more. 2 important things you didnt say were, if you were going with higher compression pistons (as you have the w58 tranny im assuming this is an NA-T)turbo pistons or stock NA pistons. Also you didnt say if you were going with stock, .20 over or .40 over. these are also important. other than that with no mods minus an ebay dp and a boost controller set at god knows what psi thats all im committing to. tune it and then that number will probibly go up.

 

[NeoJester]

actualy if u read its a 88 7mgte motor/ecu/harness and a 87 Turbo Body. the only things that are NA at the interior and the tranny cause the turbo tranny is fucked and i have yet to get a new one. so no its not an NA-T its full turbo. also they are .40 JE pistons FOR A TURBO MOTOR, but being .40 doesnt make a power difference it just is how much the cylinder is bored out to get a fresh surface. and yes i know the downpipe sucks but it is an opened up exhaust. Seeing as how im friends with the creatures of the defcon downpipe(russ maskey) im gonna be making up one of those that have been discontinued. Ill have gotten rid of that stupid airbox soon as the adapter plate comes in and i can put a k&n filter on it.

 

[NeoJester]

oh and in mods i do have the SAFC and a innovate LM-1 for tuning purposes. to go with the boost controller. and im waiting to purchase a HKS FCD tommarow.

 

[NeoJester]

Maybe a list will be easier to fallow

Engine:
88 7M-GTE
.40 JE pistons
Eagle Rods
Cleavite bearings
ARP connecting bolts
ARP Head Studs
1.5mm Titan MHG
Rebuilt Toyota head
New Oil/Water pump from toyota

Turbo:
Stock CT-26

Exhaust:
Stock elbow
3" generic stainless downpipe
Straight pipeback

Intake:
K&N airfilter
Adapter plate

Intercooler:
Stock front mount

Tuning:
Apexi SAFC
Innovate LM-1
Turboxcess Boost Controller
Autometer Boost Gauge
HKS-FCD
Stock Turbo ECU/Harness

Tranny/rear diff:
W58(till the turbo 5spd comes)
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Turbo LSD rear diff

Fuel:
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Stock turbo injectors

Brakes:
Stainless braided brake lines
TRD Pads
Stock calipers/rotors

Ignition:
NGK spark plug wires
NGK irridium spark plugs
Stock coilpack

Body:
87 Turbo Hardtop
87 Turbo Body harness
89 Tails

Interior:
89 NA Targa Interior

 

[MKIIINA]

hum. still going to be about stock numbers over all. the free flowing exhaust is a plus and after you get it tuned will help more.

the reason i thought it was an NA-T was mainly because of the tranny and then the mismatch your car is. Relax some.

edit: also the blocks casting pretty much between the NA and turbo (major difference being the oil squirters) NA and turbo pistons have different compression rates. with a higher compression rate you will make more power at the same psi vs the lower compression turbo pistons, you will need to run higher octane to compensate though with the hi compression slugs.

 

[NeoJester]

ya i know, its 41 hours of no sleep and working on the damn car to much that gets me edgy sorry. i know about the compression ratios i had a NA 7M in a different car(seeing as how this is supra number 4) that had 10.5:1 compression. which is higher then stock NA pistons which are way higher then turbo pistons. but higher compression + boost = lots of tuning headache and high risk of breakage. i finally had the money and time to build a strong reliable turbo 7m that can handle higher horsepower. just now the funds are low again so the things that make big power like better turbos are outa a ways out. thats why im asking with the right tune and turning up the boost to 14psi with what i got could possibly produce. i know the ct-26 will handle 14-16psi after that its really inefficient. ive seen a ct-26 at 28psi on a dyno explode, that shaft exploded and each wheel tumbled down the intake and exhaust tubing and the fins when everywere pretty freakin sweet.

 

[MKIIINA]

no praw just remember that the rest of us have bad days too. Ive driven my car 3 of the last 9 month due to turbo issues. 5 turbos, blown..... plus remember we dont always have the brightest bulb in the box post here so patience is a plus.

a stock ct26 at 14-16 psi is ok. Honestly if those are your goals power wise id just get the lex afm and 550 combo for your fuel cut issues. on a good rebuild they are awesome (ran my stock ct26 up to 18psi daily after the lex/550s combo w/o issue for 8 months is then sold it to a buddy about a year ago and the damn thing just blew with over 100k miles on it) hth!

 

[drjonez]

ummmmmmm. that's an interesting list.....you built the engine right, but then skimped out on the intake/exhaust/IC setup? i'd wait before cranking up the boost. w/the stock elbow and the puny exhaust, you're leaving a lot of power on the table. do it right (as you already have started w/the engine):

-FULL 3" exhaust
-some sort of intake
-hard IC pipes
-better IC

after that, set boost under 15 psi and enjoy....or really you should figure out what your goals are, then decide how to get there. you've got a great starting point w/the built engine, don't throw it all away by being foolish now...

 

[oscolivar1]

bic dp with flex section get xtra bung for the wideband or use stock bung but need an adapter plate...
K&N or apexi is the best .....for hp and flitering...
dont know your hp goals...but i'd get hard ic pipes 2.5
u can use stock intercooler over 400hp+, but why do that when u spent so much money on the engine alrdy....
take your time....
gl on the build.... nice setup btw

 

[drjonez]

...u can use stock intercooler over 400hp+...

sure you CAN, but that doesn't mean it's the best way to do things....

 

[NeoJester]

well once all is said and done the plan is to have everything built cause i wanna hit over 600 and i know how to get there, BUT what im asking is what are your guys opinion on with whats sitting infront of me now i can do safely. cause i have all the parts thats going on her next planned out, but they are a ways out and i want to be able to play around this season before the seasons over since my build has taken up all spring summer and is now ready to drive in the begining of fall.

 

[NeoJester]

by next spring i plan on a GT40R, turbo 5spd tranny, HKS-VPC, 550cc injectors, 4" turbo back exhaust, new front mount ic, ic hard pipes, aluminum radiator, electric fans, new coils, bigger throttle body, bigger fuel lines. thats what the plans for over the winter are.

 

[drjonez]

then set the boost just under FCO and enjoy the car.

 

[MKIIINA]

truerer words have never been spoken.....

just dont push things too fast. its like romancing a fine woman, ya can't go for the goods or high boost right off the bat, ya need to work up to it.

 

[NeoJester]

do you guys think that my upgrade plans for the winter are a right way to go. from many other setups ive seen that seems to be a very reliable high power producing setup.

 

[drjonez]

reliability is purely based on tuning....and keeping oil in the engine....