15 years old my father bought me a 1989 toyota supra with a 7mge n/a and 5 speed trans. targa top. i was styling and profiling!!
well at 18 i was stupid and sold it to a friend of mine for $3000. he ended up spinning a main bearing thus destroying the 7m powerplant
he proceeded to sell that car on craigslist. and to be completely honest, i knew id never see it again... i dreamt about this car every week! wishing someway i could find it and get it back!!
two years later...
using my monthly craigslist keyword search of "supra" came up with more than just nice kicks or a nice boat....there it was. MY SUPRA!! how did i know it was mine? well my $2,000 black with red pen stripe paint job was pretty uncommon! =D i called the guy and he said he had plans of a 2jz swap but funds fell thru and had to cut losses, of course i setup the buy and loaded it up and back to her home she was, for only $500 bones!!!!!
with a destroyed new paint job,fenders had deep grooves from loose hood, scuffs everywhere, motor removed, all the interior in the trunk.
i had alot of work to do!
i started with a $6,000 loan, let me say right now, if you plan on swapping to an aristo 2jzgte vvti, your gonna need atleast another grand, IF u get decent deals on parts, AND the engine is in good condition, all sensors included ecu, etc.
the us 2jzgte is different from the jdm.
do your research before you buy!!! i wish i woulda found a us 2j but at the time 1750 for my aristo sounded like a hell of a deal... HAH :3d_frown:
im going to kinda do my own guide, dont have to sticky it or anything, just hoping to inspire some people and let them know its really not THAT HARD, XD
i used a tweakd harness for 1k, a very hard decision, and to be honest once i got their harness in i felt like i coulda did the same, BUT, they do have some wicked sweet customer service and warranty, so for the peace of mind and stress avoidance i let them take care of me.
!!things i used to make it work!!
meghan racing stiff mounts. didnt plan on track racing, but also not daily driving this car so i figured it would be a good move since im using a mechanical fan
koyo aluminium rad
2jzgte fan clutch 2jzge fan (ON VVTI YOU MUST SHIM THE FAN>CLUTCH BOLTS OR ELSE YOUR RADIATOR HOSE WILL NOT WORK,TRUST ME!!!)
cheap ebay swap brackets that use farther back mounting location, ditch the aristo mounts, no way will they work in a mk3.
stock fuel banjo bolt setup bolts right up no worries.
walbro 255l pump and install kit, easy install just be careful of the philips head screws, i did do my own fuel pump 12v mod. a toggle switch lol. had to for my setup for some reason or another.. just had to! pump would only cut on when key was in crank position.
i used cut to fit heater hoses straight to the heater core, removed that valve the 7m used. looks alot better. had to have a little extra and turn it just right to not kink but it works!
now for the oil pan. must use rear sump, duh! you also have to use a rear sump dipstick!! and the oil level sensor isnt used, but you should keep it in so you dont have a big hole!
driftmotion sells the correct size turbo oil return feed hose, and man is it some good stuff, odd size too, standard cut to fit heater hose doesnt work well, i tried it trust me! i got 2 ft of it and used most of it. you better go ahead and take off the front metal return line that goes from the bottom of the turbo to the block and pan and cut the big metal part at the first bend, it looks like it would put your hose close to the turbo but the hose driftmotion sells will be okay with the heat. if you dont cut this pipe the rubber return line will kink and be a pain to put on.
ask me how i know -__-
a tip if you plan on doing your own harness. if you had a na car then you will need a tach adapter to make the coil pack signal from the 2jz to work on your distributor 7m cluster. make sense?
if you had a turbo car then the 7mgte was coil packs so ur ready to wire it up and watch them rpms bounce!!
if you dont want to use a tach adapter just swap in a turbo cluster and that works also!
while im talking about clusters, the stock turbo cluster had a 8psi boost gauge on it, which, heh will not be used =D so you can carefully pull your cluster apart and remove the boost gauge and replace it with a na cluster volt gauge, to make it work just jump the bottom mount screw to the + on the security screw a little to the top right. youll see what i mean and if you dont understand just do a quick google search and there is a black background writeup you will find. simple stuff.
okay so back to my project!
i painted all the plastic interior black, and debating on doing the targa top and roof lining black also...
non smokers can enjoy a clean boost gauge install by removing the cigarette lighter 12v socket, then with a pair of needle nose pliers from the back side chip out the plastic around the hole pretty good, dont worry the vinyl on the front of the trim piece will hide this messy mod. get it big enough to stuff a standard boost gauge u buy at a parts store thru the hole, and BAM cleanest looking spot for some booooost!
i got a cheap fmic(front mount intercooler) from ebay and when i went to plumb the pipes i discovered with the koyo rad you dont have enough room to plumb the intake side without ofcourse, relocating the battery! DONT FREAK OUT! its easy! what i did was run a thick battery wire thru a gromment in the trunk, down the "frame" of the car, and connected it to the big lug on the starter took about 15ft of cable. now find the wire that is coming out of your fusebox and going straight to your old positive(+) battery terminal and extend it about 16inches. add a ring terminal to the end of it and throw that on the starter lug also! thats all u gotta do!
for alternator wiring i just ran another one of those big battery wires inbetween the radiator and the ac condensor along with the 3 wires and connected it all directly to the old connections for the 7m alternator. works great, looks decent.
for a/c and p.s. you will wanna smash your face into a big shop fan. i mean you will take my advice and avoid countless trial and error lol.
so the a/c lines bolt up..kinda. and the p.s. does too... kinda. be sure to wait to do any of this until the engine is IN THE CAR, theres room to work but you have to have your ac lines there to see what needs to be modified. i used the driftmotion braided line that comes from the rack to the pump, might wanna install the rack side of the line before engine install lol. the two vaccum lines that come from the p.s. idle module that gets removed then can be t'd together and use your boost gauge on that fitting. easy!
start by pulling off your power steering pump and the bracket it sits in.
then swap a/c compressors and tighten down the 2 back bolts.
for the a/c you WILL NEED the older 2jz a/c compressor with the 4 bolt tophat that has 1 line coming out of it.
just swap your 7m tophat to the older 2jz compressor and your old lines will work. oh and go ahead and take the bolt that is on the left and grind the head down to barely enough to get a socket on,i grinded mine a little far but you get the idea. youll need as much space as possible
now thats connected you can TRY to put that bracket for the ps back on... nope not happening.
save yourself some trouble and cut the bolt hole that has threads in it completely off. dont worry when you tighten everything else it holds in place good and tensions good no worries.
leave the flat one that has a bracket to the block on tho. only cut the one that hits. youll see which when you do this. if you cut enough off, set that bracket back on and if it doesnt hit the a/c bolt,set your p.s. pump on it. something looking a little off? check your pulley alignment.
yep something is still not clearancing. its the bottom bolt hole on the pump itself! easy easy easy fix just take ur pump over to ur grinder and take some material off of that where it hits also. dont take too much and damage the pump just enough to clearance that cursed a/c bolt and bracket.
so basically youll modify then test fit then mod some more till it looks good. you will have to install everything in this order
1.ac pump
2.4 bolt tophat from 7m
3.a/c lines
4.p.s. bracket
5.ps pump (youll only use your bolt hole you cut the threads out of to line the pump up, then tighten the bolt beside it and remove the bolt from the modified hole, HOLDS GREAT!)
NOW after all that modification and cussing and tight quarters, open a beer, and enjoy. now you can kill vettes in the cool ac :wiggle:
i cant help with wiring much. i can say that you better inspect your vaccum lines and be careful of the little sensor right above the rear turbo that has two lines going to it. mine broke off and it was a pain to fix. with a big single swap all that mess goes away very quickly tho! =D
anyways, i will be sure to post before and after pics and keep yall updated on the build
currently im stuck on igf code 14. car starts then stalls instantly. only runs for 3 seconds. already replaced ignitor,plugs, ohmd the coils, that didnt fix it so i sent the harness back to confirm thats not at fault. if it isnt i will start going over sensors and maybe even the ecu... or might wait on my aem v2 aristo plug n play around tax time :naughty:
update: tweaked found a bad connection in my ignition wiring on the harness, hopefully this was my issue, i will know tomorrow. it is scheduled for then, my own little personal pre-Christmas surprise!!
christmas update: got the harness back yesterday, didnt get a chance to install until today. it worked!!! she starts up and continues to run great! no check engine light!! tweaked fixed his mistake, just waiting on a refund for shipping and a tach adaptor now.
update, started the 2jz with everything hooked up and my ebay clutch and pressure plate exploded.. yep destroyed my flywheel bellhousing clutch and pressure plate. trying to get a $700 credit from the clutch company but doubt ill get it so this project just got put on hold.... great!
well at 18 i was stupid and sold it to a friend of mine for $3000. he ended up spinning a main bearing thus destroying the 7m powerplant
he proceeded to sell that car on craigslist. and to be completely honest, i knew id never see it again... i dreamt about this car every week! wishing someway i could find it and get it back!!
two years later...
using my monthly craigslist keyword search of "supra" came up with more than just nice kicks or a nice boat....there it was. MY SUPRA!! how did i know it was mine? well my $2,000 black with red pen stripe paint job was pretty uncommon! =D i called the guy and he said he had plans of a 2jz swap but funds fell thru and had to cut losses, of course i setup the buy and loaded it up and back to her home she was, for only $500 bones!!!!!
with a destroyed new paint job,fenders had deep grooves from loose hood, scuffs everywhere, motor removed, all the interior in the trunk.
i had alot of work to do!
i started with a $6,000 loan, let me say right now, if you plan on swapping to an aristo 2jzgte vvti, your gonna need atleast another grand, IF u get decent deals on parts, AND the engine is in good condition, all sensors included ecu, etc.
the us 2jzgte is different from the jdm.
do your research before you buy!!! i wish i woulda found a us 2j but at the time 1750 for my aristo sounded like a hell of a deal... HAH :3d_frown:
im going to kinda do my own guide, dont have to sticky it or anything, just hoping to inspire some people and let them know its really not THAT HARD, XD
i used a tweakd harness for 1k, a very hard decision, and to be honest once i got their harness in i felt like i coulda did the same, BUT, they do have some wicked sweet customer service and warranty, so for the peace of mind and stress avoidance i let them take care of me.
!!things i used to make it work!!
meghan racing stiff mounts. didnt plan on track racing, but also not daily driving this car so i figured it would be a good move since im using a mechanical fan
koyo aluminium rad
2jzgte fan clutch 2jzge fan (ON VVTI YOU MUST SHIM THE FAN>CLUTCH BOLTS OR ELSE YOUR RADIATOR HOSE WILL NOT WORK,TRUST ME!!!)
cheap ebay swap brackets that use farther back mounting location, ditch the aristo mounts, no way will they work in a mk3.
stock fuel banjo bolt setup bolts right up no worries.
walbro 255l pump and install kit, easy install just be careful of the philips head screws, i did do my own fuel pump 12v mod. a toggle switch lol. had to for my setup for some reason or another.. just had to! pump would only cut on when key was in crank position.
i used cut to fit heater hoses straight to the heater core, removed that valve the 7m used. looks alot better. had to have a little extra and turn it just right to not kink but it works!
now for the oil pan. must use rear sump, duh! you also have to use a rear sump dipstick!! and the oil level sensor isnt used, but you should keep it in so you dont have a big hole!
driftmotion sells the correct size turbo oil return feed hose, and man is it some good stuff, odd size too, standard cut to fit heater hose doesnt work well, i tried it trust me! i got 2 ft of it and used most of it. you better go ahead and take off the front metal return line that goes from the bottom of the turbo to the block and pan and cut the big metal part at the first bend, it looks like it would put your hose close to the turbo but the hose driftmotion sells will be okay with the heat. if you dont cut this pipe the rubber return line will kink and be a pain to put on.
ask me how i know -__-
a tip if you plan on doing your own harness. if you had a na car then you will need a tach adapter to make the coil pack signal from the 2jz to work on your distributor 7m cluster. make sense?
if you had a turbo car then the 7mgte was coil packs so ur ready to wire it up and watch them rpms bounce!!
if you dont want to use a tach adapter just swap in a turbo cluster and that works also!
while im talking about clusters, the stock turbo cluster had a 8psi boost gauge on it, which, heh will not be used =D so you can carefully pull your cluster apart and remove the boost gauge and replace it with a na cluster volt gauge, to make it work just jump the bottom mount screw to the + on the security screw a little to the top right. youll see what i mean and if you dont understand just do a quick google search and there is a black background writeup you will find. simple stuff.
okay so back to my project!
i painted all the plastic interior black, and debating on doing the targa top and roof lining black also...
non smokers can enjoy a clean boost gauge install by removing the cigarette lighter 12v socket, then with a pair of needle nose pliers from the back side chip out the plastic around the hole pretty good, dont worry the vinyl on the front of the trim piece will hide this messy mod. get it big enough to stuff a standard boost gauge u buy at a parts store thru the hole, and BAM cleanest looking spot for some booooost!
i got a cheap fmic(front mount intercooler) from ebay and when i went to plumb the pipes i discovered with the koyo rad you dont have enough room to plumb the intake side without ofcourse, relocating the battery! DONT FREAK OUT! its easy! what i did was run a thick battery wire thru a gromment in the trunk, down the "frame" of the car, and connected it to the big lug on the starter took about 15ft of cable. now find the wire that is coming out of your fusebox and going straight to your old positive(+) battery terminal and extend it about 16inches. add a ring terminal to the end of it and throw that on the starter lug also! thats all u gotta do!
for alternator wiring i just ran another one of those big battery wires inbetween the radiator and the ac condensor along with the 3 wires and connected it all directly to the old connections for the 7m alternator. works great, looks decent.
for a/c and p.s. you will wanna smash your face into a big shop fan. i mean you will take my advice and avoid countless trial and error lol.
so the a/c lines bolt up..kinda. and the p.s. does too... kinda. be sure to wait to do any of this until the engine is IN THE CAR, theres room to work but you have to have your ac lines there to see what needs to be modified. i used the driftmotion braided line that comes from the rack to the pump, might wanna install the rack side of the line before engine install lol. the two vaccum lines that come from the p.s. idle module that gets removed then can be t'd together and use your boost gauge on that fitting. easy!
start by pulling off your power steering pump and the bracket it sits in.
then swap a/c compressors and tighten down the 2 back bolts.
for the a/c you WILL NEED the older 2jz a/c compressor with the 4 bolt tophat that has 1 line coming out of it.
just swap your 7m tophat to the older 2jz compressor and your old lines will work. oh and go ahead and take the bolt that is on the left and grind the head down to barely enough to get a socket on,i grinded mine a little far but you get the idea. youll need as much space as possible
now thats connected you can TRY to put that bracket for the ps back on... nope not happening.
save yourself some trouble and cut the bolt hole that has threads in it completely off. dont worry when you tighten everything else it holds in place good and tensions good no worries.
leave the flat one that has a bracket to the block on tho. only cut the one that hits. youll see which when you do this. if you cut enough off, set that bracket back on and if it doesnt hit the a/c bolt,set your p.s. pump on it. something looking a little off? check your pulley alignment.
yep something is still not clearancing. its the bottom bolt hole on the pump itself! easy easy easy fix just take ur pump over to ur grinder and take some material off of that where it hits also. dont take too much and damage the pump just enough to clearance that cursed a/c bolt and bracket.
so basically youll modify then test fit then mod some more till it looks good. you will have to install everything in this order
1.ac pump
2.4 bolt tophat from 7m
3.a/c lines
4.p.s. bracket
5.ps pump (youll only use your bolt hole you cut the threads out of to line the pump up, then tighten the bolt beside it and remove the bolt from the modified hole, HOLDS GREAT!)
NOW after all that modification and cussing and tight quarters, open a beer, and enjoy. now you can kill vettes in the cool ac :wiggle:
i cant help with wiring much. i can say that you better inspect your vaccum lines and be careful of the little sensor right above the rear turbo that has two lines going to it. mine broke off and it was a pain to fix. with a big single swap all that mess goes away very quickly tho! =D
anyways, i will be sure to post before and after pics and keep yall updated on the build
currently im stuck on igf code 14. car starts then stalls instantly. only runs for 3 seconds. already replaced ignitor,plugs, ohmd the coils, that didnt fix it so i sent the harness back to confirm thats not at fault. if it isnt i will start going over sensors and maybe even the ecu... or might wait on my aem v2 aristo plug n play around tax time :naughty:
update: tweaked found a bad connection in my ignition wiring on the harness, hopefully this was my issue, i will know tomorrow. it is scheduled for then, my own little personal pre-Christmas surprise!!
christmas update: got the harness back yesterday, didnt get a chance to install until today. it worked!!! she starts up and continues to run great! no check engine light!! tweaked fixed his mistake, just waiting on a refund for shipping and a tach adaptor now.
update, started the 2jz with everything hooked up and my ebay clutch and pressure plate exploded.. yep destroyed my flywheel bellhousing clutch and pressure plate. trying to get a $700 credit from the clutch company but doubt ill get it so this project just got put on hold.... great!
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also where in VA are you at? I'd like to check the project out man
