my big long list of mostly stupid questions

wingman

sucka got blammed!
Sep 11, 2005
427
0
0
35
Phoenix, AZ
Got a new car ('87 Turbo)...and a lot of questions on things that I've never encountered on my old N/A beater. Any help is greatly appreciated

1. what does a valve slap sound like, anybody have a clip? When idling my car I have a really inconsistant, faint, almost like your loosly snapping your finger sound from the engine bay. I've heard rod knock on other cars, and this definately doesn't sound like it...it's way too faint and just not clunky enough. I have a full ferrea valvetrain, stock cams, and JE pistons if that helps clear it up a bit. I'd snag an audio sample, but I don't have any means short of dragging my computer out into the driveway. It just happened the last time I started it up, so it might now happen again but it never hurt to ask.

2. does anybody know what LED lights are used in the e-bay indiglo clusters? I have a faulty one that I'd like to fix...not being able to see my oil pressure gage at night gets annoying.

3. I've never owned a turbo car prior to this one, let alone anything as fancy as a turbo timer. Last I checked they are designed to keep the car running after you remove the key from the ignition as to keep the turbo from burning oil onto the shaft, but no matter what I do with my HKS type-1 it will just count the timer down and not keep the car running. Is this a wiring problem, or is it supposed to do so after short (10-15 minutes) periods of idling or very intermittent boosting.

4. What steps must be taken to do an FFIM conversion? Aside from the TB and cable, IC and piping, alternator, and vacuum/ISC ports I'm totally lost. Also, can I get enough air through the stock '87 fascia to one of the SSAutoChrome intercoolers to cool the charge effectively at say, 20-30psi?

5. Does an S-AFC/AVC-R/turbo timer interfere with the super monitor at all? Mine is inop, and since my head unit doesn't display a clock I'm left with telling time by the position of the sun...which doesn't fly with the boss. If it does interfere, how do I bypass it? And if not is there any troubleshooting procedure to determining where the problem is? In any case I assume the standard digital clock will fit just fine in it's location, or at least it appears that way.

6. How does one go about removing the cruise control system? Mine doesn't work, and I never use it anyway, so all it's doing is cluttering the engine bay. What parts can be completely removed and are there any electrical problems that will interfere with removing it? I always needed a second coin holder up there :D

7. Is clutch activation point adjustable? The TSRM only talks about adjusting clutch pedal travel and height, and I'd like to get the activation point a little bit higher up than an inch off the floor.

8. Is the MAFT-PRO suggested over an S-AFC/AVC-R setup when dealing with someone who knows nothing about tuning but can understand A/F ratio's and what they mean? I seem to remember somewhere that you can specify what A/F ratio you want, and the MAFT will basically tune your car for you throughout the RPM band, which in all honesty seems like a dream come true for me.

9. What does the taillight warning light on the console mean? I checked both brake, tail, turn, reverse, and running lights and they all worked correctly. Could it be a relay, or just a cruel joke the car is playing on me?



...i'm sure I've got more, just give it time. There's currently a foot of snow on the ground here and it won't move from it's burrow in the driveway, so I can't go out and drive it as of now. Not looking for any cheap, quick solution...I'd like to do everything the right way, as there's still quite a bit of winter left up here. Also, does disconnecting the battery clear the codes? If so I'll run out and check them tomorrow (hopefully it's not a single digit windchill) and report my findings.
 
Last edited:

supraman7mgte

Shut up,bitch!!
Apr 1, 2005
1,753
0
0
Sunny California
I have a HK$ timer,and it will keep the car running from 30 seconds to 2 minutes I think. After the count down has elapsed,the car will turn off.Is there wire that needs to go to the hand brake? I got the wiring harness to go with mine,so it was just plug and play.
The cruise control should be pretty straight forward. Being as it is vacum activated,all the necessary crap is right there in the engine compartment.
Did you check the idiot 3rd brake light?
 

souprat

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
649
0
0
38
fairfax VA
#7 clutch engagement: when you adjust the pedal height and travel the engagement moves as well. just play around with it untill you like where it is, just be aware that it is possible to adjust it so as that the clutch will slip because it is not fully engaged.
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
6,152
32
48
40
MA, 01440
I guess I'll answer some of your questions, too, wingman. lol.

8:MAFT-Pro is FAR more flexible than any combo of piggybacks available.

9:It's probably the lamp failure box behind the LH taillamp interior panel. Pull off the little window, but I'm not sure if you can get to it like that since I hadn't had a rear interior nearly the entire time I owned my car. But it's down there. It's a white box, either yellow or white. You'll see it. It says "Lamp Failure Box" right on it.
I have two of them if you end up needing one.
 

americanjebus

Mr. Evergreen
Mar 30, 2005
1,867
0
0
37
wa.
wingman said:
Got a new car ('87 Turb
1. what does a valve slap sound like, anybody have a clip?
2. does anybody know what LED lights are used in the e-bay indiglo clusters? I have a faulty one that I'd like to fix...not being able to see my oil pressure gage at night gets annoying.

3. I've never owned a turbo car prior to this one, let alone anything as fancy as a turbo timer. Last I checked they are designed to keep the car running after you remove the key from the ignition as to keep the turbo from burning oil onto the shaft, but no matter what I do with my HKS type-1 it will just count the timer down and not keep the car running. Is this a wiring problem, or is it supposed to do so after short (10-15 minutes) periods of idling or very intermittent boosting.

4. What steps must be taken to do an FFIM conversion? Aside from the TB and cable, IC and piping, alternator, and vacuum/ISC ports I'm totally lost. Also, can I get enough air through the stock '87 fascia to one of the SSAutoChrome intercoolers to cool the charge effectively at say, 20-30psi?

5. Does an S-AFC/AVC-R/turbo timer interfere with the super monitor at all? Mine is inop, and since my head unit doesn't display a clock I'm left with telling time by the position of the sun...which doesn't fly with the boss. If it does interfere, how do I bypass it? And if not is there any troubleshooting procedure to determining where the problem is? In any case I assume the standard digital clock will fit just fine in it's location, or at least it appears that way.

6. How does one go about removing the cruise control system? Mine doesn't work, and I never use it anyway, so all it's doing is cluttering the engine bay. What parts can be completely removed and are there any electrical problems that will interfere with removing it? I always needed a second coin holder up there :D

7. Is clutch activation point adjustable? The TSRM only talks about adjusting clutch pedal travel and height, and I'd like to get the activation point a little bit higher up than an inch off the floor.

8. Is the MAFT-PRO suggested over an S-AFC/AVC-R setup when dealing with someone who knows nothing about tuning but can understand A/F ratio's and what they mean? I seem to remember somewhere that you can specify what A/F ratio you want, and the MAFT will basically tune your car for you throughout the RPM band, which in all honesty seems like a dream come true for me.

9. What does the taillight warning light on the console mean? I checked both brake, tail, turn, reverse, and running lights and they all worked correctly. Could it be a relay, or just a cruel joke the car is playing on me?



...i'm sure I've got more, just give it time. There's currently a foot of snow on the ground here and it won't move from it's burrow in the driveway, so I can't go out and drive it as of now. Not looking for any cheap, quick solution...I'd like to do everything the right way, as there's still quite a bit of winter left up here. Also, does disconnecting the battery clear the codes? If so I'll run out and check them tomorrow (hopefully it's not a single digit windchill) and report my findings.

1: i am experiencing this to a good extent at the moment and it sounds like a miniature rod knock, take the bar for your jack or something metal and put one end against your valve cover and the other end to your hear and you should hear what sounds like an f350 powerstroke diesel idleing next to you.

2: beats me i dont shop ebay. pull it off go to radioshack

3:turbo timer is counting down and sending power to something OTHER than your engine as it sounds like, it seams as though you mistapped the wire that should have gone to your ign. go back through and redo the wiring, sounds like everything else is working ok just need to have your tt keep sending power to the right place. any aftermarket alarms or other electronics?? that could interfere, i tried installing a tt on a car w/ a viper alarm....... that sucked donkey balls i tell you what.

4: you covered most of it, not sure if you need a new tb, some one would chime in. ij if ya could i dont know about FFIM'S. as far as the ic, you can move some stuff to fit that ic, it can be done but it'll take some cutting, if you dont use your a/c that will ad ALLOT of room.

5: dunno dont have those

6:why not fix it??

7: been answered ^

8: maftpro as i have researched is like tuning for dummies, its a whole different ball park compared to a standard safc and from what i've read it sounds like god in a box. Definately worth the extra bucks.

9:could be anything like a short or bad ground, go back there and disconnect some stuff htat could be suspect and reconnect, could just do it, happened to me. check your reverse lights.
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
0
36
Ohio
If you set it the way the TSRM says with freeplay your clutch should engage actually quite high in the pedel throw if you have a healthy system. So check that out 1st, and it its all set up correctly at the pedal then you could have air in the clutch lines or something may be broken.
 

bluepearl

New Member
Jul 21, 2005
326
0
0
pa.
9. What does the taillight warning light on the console mean? I checked both brake, tail, turn, reverse, and running lights and they all worked correctly. Could it be a relay, or just a cruel joke the car is playing on me?

Sit in you're car and turn it on. Is the light on? If not, turn park lights on. Is it on? If not turn the headlights on. Is the light on? If not use the turn signals. Is the light on? If not press on the brake. Does the light come on now? Don't forget backup and third brake light too.
 

wingman

sucka got blammed!
Sep 11, 2005
427
0
0
35
Phoenix, AZ
re-checked what taillights I could...i'll have to get a buddy to help out with the brake lights though, didn't see any damage to the wiring, but I did see a little 2-prong connector in the middle of the hatch which I assume are the 3rd brake light wires...i'll have to check though. My rear trim is all removed, so getting to stuff should be pretty easy.

Took a really good look at the IC today, I'll have to cut out the center support and the stock mounting brackets, then fashion up some new ones, but that's just part of the game I guess. I don't have AC or PS so that helps out quite a bit. Also gives me an excuse to replace the stock horns with air horns!

I'll mess with the clutch later, the wind chill here is freezing...and it's not a rush job, I want to say there's air in the system, because it isn't uniformly stiff throughout the pedal pull...I'll bleed the system and see if that works before I go checking cylinders.

I also got a general area of the engine bay noise...it's coming from around the alternator, so I'm guessing it's just something a little loose that the engine is vibrating. That would explain the inconsistancy of the noise.

I'll pull up the wiring diagrams for the turbo timer and see if it matches up. I wasn't the one who installed it, in fact it came that way when I got it. He reported having some trouble with it immediately before I picked the car up, but other then not keeping the car running it seems to work fine.

As far as the cruise control, I just simply don't need it or use it. I've never used it on any vehicle I've ever driven...so it being broken gives me an excuse to clean out another part of the engine bay, and have another coinholder :D