someone told me mobil 5000 is just mobil 1 synthetic that can be used up to 5k miles? sorry im no oil guru but is it synthetic or not? bottle doesnt say so i assume no.
mobil 5000 synthetic??
- Thread starter americanjebus
- Start date
i posted a thread about this on the old forums i think or it might be this one.
they say that the 5k 10k and 15k mile oils are for the newwer engines that is why, but everyone on here agreed that it was prolly not a good idea to put this stuff in the supra engine and run it for 5k. so verdict is this is bad change oil every 3k miles.
and i think it is synthetic.
they say that the 5k 10k and 15k mile oils are for the newwer engines that is why, but everyone on here agreed that it was prolly not a good idea to put this stuff in the supra engine and run it for 5k. so verdict is this is bad change oil every 3k miles.
and i think it is synthetic.
CTsupra
Supramania Contributor
change every 3000? jesus christ, i was changing my mkiii's oil every 1500 w/ royal purple, and will do so with the next.
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IMO, 1500 mile oil change is overkill with synthetic. These oils do not break down like dyno oils. That is why they cost more because they withstand more.
Correct, 1500 mile changes definitly will not hurt, however it is truly
overkill. 3000 intervals is still more than needed. Toyota says every
5000 for the 7M-GTE or every 6 mos. Oh and yes 20-50 is stated for
most temp. ranges. This is all from the Toyota TRSM and owners manual.
I change mine ever 4000 miles with 20-50 Mobile 1.
Cheers
overkill. 3000 intervals is still more than needed. Toyota says every
5000 for the 7M-GTE or every 6 mos. Oh and yes 20-50 is stated for
most temp. ranges. This is all from the Toyota TRSM and owners manual.
I change mine ever 4000 miles with 20-50 Mobile 1.
Cheers
my dad just got me some of that mobil 15k stuff. im leary of it and have been watching it very very closely. i am planning on pulling it at 10k at the very latest to see how it is. i dont think its the same exactly as rebular mobil 1, i am using the same weight and i am seeing 20lbs pressure across the board, even after 1000 miles, usually it would be only a 10psi jump until 500-700 miles then back to normal range. interesting...
ok people interpreted this way wrong, i wasnt asking if its ok to change after 5k i just wanted to know if it was synthetic or not because nowhere on the bottle does it say "synthetic". i assume it is now considering its mobil and because they would have to be pretty stupid to run crude for 15k and tell you to do so.
Heres how this works. This is exactly the same oil as the previous mobil oils. mobil clean 5000 is dino oil. In a non severe application, it is perfectly ok to change your oil at 5000 miles. Mobile 7500 is semi synthetic. again, this is a non severe application. Mobil 15000 mile oil is full synthetic, the same stuff with a new label. I have been running 10w-40 mobil1 sythetic in my nissan frontier since it hit 3000 miles from the time it was new. I go 10k miles between oil changes with a mobil filter. It now has 145k miles on it and still runs as if new. So yes, in a normal app, you can use this stuff for exteneded period of time. Just not in a turbo supra that gets flogged when it is driven. Then you can change it at 3-5k miles.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_Clean_5000_FAQs.aspx#FAQs1
Is Mobil Clean 5000 a synthetic oil or a synthetic blend?
Mobil Clean 5000 is not a synthetic or synthetic blend. While it does offer high performance, the base stock composition is non-synthetic.
hehe google.
Is Mobil Clean 5000 a synthetic oil or a synthetic blend?
Mobil Clean 5000 is not a synthetic or synthetic blend. While it does offer high performance, the base stock composition is non-synthetic.
hehe google.
I think its a blend actually. Just seeing the bottles in the commercial Mobil 1 is still the 15000 mile stuff. So I'm assuming as for now its the only 100% synthetic out of the bunch.
Just buy Amsoil
Just buy Amsoil
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Filtration is the key to any oil's "life".
If the oil becomes dirty due to soot, bypass gas and water, it's going to do a crappy job of lubricating your engine.
Stock type spin on filters only stop particles (Crap) down to about 10 microns at best. Many are more like 20 to 40 microns. (Wow, a 40 micron particle is HUGE in this context, and your "Race" filters are only going after the larger ones because they expect you change the oil after a race or two, and higher oil pressure/flow on a paper filter requires a larger "hole" in the paper....)
Depth filters like your K&N air filter for example trap the debris in layers of media. The oil filter type use a few layers of tightly woven media, and actually flow more oil than a paper type filter, even layered. (Once the outer holes are clogged, your done.) With depth, the big stuff is trapped on the outside, and the smaller and smaller stuff is stopped/trapped in the layers. Read up about it a Canton racing products, CM filters. They make spin on adapters if you want to keep your engine "stock."
Just a interesting tidbit, but wear and tear is caused by any particles larger than 10 microns. The CM filters are rated at 8 microns. (Should be enough right?)
Bypass filters go where your stock full flow filters can't. They "slowly" filter oil in a thicker depth filter. And they stop particles down to ONE MICRON. I just changed my bypass filter, and the amount of crap trapped in it was amazing. All the assembly lube, any coatings that have been displaced as this motor is being broken in, and just dirt in general was on this filter. That is all crap that is not in my motor.
Same with the first CM filter that I pulled out after about 100 miles. It was coated with assembly lube, some small metal particles, and other crap from the new motor. The level of crap would have clogged up a paper filter in a few seconds, and then the "bypass" on your paper type filter would have allowed this crap to be pumped throughout the motor. (Causing wear.)
So, back to oil. The more crap you keep out of the oil, the better the additive package can work. And the longer it will work. Some oil filter companies claim you can get 1/2 million miles from good synthetic oil with the right filtration. That's 500,000 miles. Check out Oil Guard. I run the smaller car unit, and will be adding one to my Audi A8 very soon.
I have used the Mobile One full synthetic oils in my cars since about 1983. And I change my oil 2 times per year. If I put more miles on the oil, I will change the filter at 5k. (This was on the old paper type filters.)
What is amazing is when you open the engine that has run this type of oil. There is NO yellow varnish. No sludge build up. Just clean, new looking parts with very little if any wear. Mostly just polished metal wear surfaces, and like new looking bearings. One motor on my Dad's car had over 400k on it, and had Mobile One in it from about 2500 miles. When we replaced a valve cover gasket, you could clearly see the paint stripes on the valve springs, and there was no varnish, or gunk anywhere, at over 400,000 miles. Compression was good, did not burn oil, and had no other leaks except the valve cover gasket. (Iron duke, so GM type 4 bolt cover, OHV engine.) He started out running the oil 5k, then went to 7.5k on oil changes at the end. (Oil would come out pretty clean even then.)
If the oil becomes dirty due to soot, bypass gas and water, it's going to do a crappy job of lubricating your engine.
Stock type spin on filters only stop particles (Crap) down to about 10 microns at best. Many are more like 20 to 40 microns. (Wow, a 40 micron particle is HUGE in this context, and your "Race" filters are only going after the larger ones because they expect you change the oil after a race or two, and higher oil pressure/flow on a paper filter requires a larger "hole" in the paper....)
Depth filters like your K&N air filter for example trap the debris in layers of media. The oil filter type use a few layers of tightly woven media, and actually flow more oil than a paper type filter, even layered. (Once the outer holes are clogged, your done.) With depth, the big stuff is trapped on the outside, and the smaller and smaller stuff is stopped/trapped in the layers. Read up about it a Canton racing products, CM filters. They make spin on adapters if you want to keep your engine "stock."
Just a interesting tidbit, but wear and tear is caused by any particles larger than 10 microns. The CM filters are rated at 8 microns. (Should be enough right?)
Bypass filters go where your stock full flow filters can't. They "slowly" filter oil in a thicker depth filter. And they stop particles down to ONE MICRON. I just changed my bypass filter, and the amount of crap trapped in it was amazing. All the assembly lube, any coatings that have been displaced as this motor is being broken in, and just dirt in general was on this filter. That is all crap that is not in my motor.
Same with the first CM filter that I pulled out after about 100 miles. It was coated with assembly lube, some small metal particles, and other crap from the new motor. The level of crap would have clogged up a paper filter in a few seconds, and then the "bypass" on your paper type filter would have allowed this crap to be pumped throughout the motor. (Causing wear.)
So, back to oil. The more crap you keep out of the oil, the better the additive package can work. And the longer it will work. Some oil filter companies claim you can get 1/2 million miles from good synthetic oil with the right filtration. That's 500,000 miles. Check out Oil Guard. I run the smaller car unit, and will be adding one to my Audi A8 very soon.
I have used the Mobile One full synthetic oils in my cars since about 1983. And I change my oil 2 times per year. If I put more miles on the oil, I will change the filter at 5k. (This was on the old paper type filters.)
What is amazing is when you open the engine that has run this type of oil. There is NO yellow varnish. No sludge build up. Just clean, new looking parts with very little if any wear. Mostly just polished metal wear surfaces, and like new looking bearings. One motor on my Dad's car had over 400k on it, and had Mobile One in it from about 2500 miles. When we replaced a valve cover gasket, you could clearly see the paint stripes on the valve springs, and there was no varnish, or gunk anywhere, at over 400,000 miles. Compression was good, did not burn oil, and had no other leaks except the valve cover gasket. (Iron duke, so GM type 4 bolt cover, OHV engine.) He started out running the oil 5k, then went to 7.5k on oil changes at the end. (Oil would come out pretty clean even then.)
I have been thinking about going to a bypass filter remote kit for a while now, and I've been wondering if it is really worth it. I guess eventually I'll have to get one, with the next 2 or 300 bucks i happen to have.
As has been said, Mobil 5000 is not synthetic in any way. I do believe it is one of the better standard oils. That's not saying much, though.
Just to clarify, Mobil 1 15K is NOT the same as the old Mobil 1. 15K just came out a couple months ago, or so, and has a very different formula. Far more additives from their "SuperSyn" package. I'm currently running Mobil 1 15K, 15W-50. Don't bother looking for 20W-50, because it doesn't exist (15W-50 is the thickest they make in the 15,000 formula).
I plan to change the filter at least once during the oil's life, which I would never let exceed 8K-10K miles without close inspection upon draining. If I'm satisfied, yeah, I might let it run longer next time (maybe two filter changes).
Anyway, as many people will tell you, it is always worth it to get quality oil. Buying even the most expensive oil will cost you about $30 for the full quantity. Do you want to save $15 a couple of times and potentially shorten the life of your engine by tens of thousands of miles? Adjuster's story about the 400K mile engine is support for this!
Just to clarify, Mobil 1 15K is NOT the same as the old Mobil 1. 15K just came out a couple months ago, or so, and has a very different formula. Far more additives from their "SuperSyn" package. I'm currently running Mobil 1 15K, 15W-50. Don't bother looking for 20W-50, because it doesn't exist (15W-50 is the thickest they make in the 15,000 formula).
I plan to change the filter at least once during the oil's life, which I would never let exceed 8K-10K miles without close inspection upon draining. If I'm satisfied, yeah, I might let it run longer next time (maybe two filter changes).
Anyway, as many people will tell you, it is always worth it to get quality oil. Buying even the most expensive oil will cost you about $30 for the full quantity. Do you want to save $15 a couple of times and potentially shorten the life of your engine by tens of thousands of miles? Adjuster's story about the 400K mile engine is support for this!