MK3_4ME's Purple Nurple '86.5 1JZ-GTE Supra Build

mk3_4me

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Apr 24, 2011
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Sandy Eggo
Sup fellas (And random "female" who may visit)! Been in the RSX community since '06. Bought the car brand new, threw on some bolts ons, & called it a day. A few years later, I craved more power, so I boosted it. Had some oil pressure issues for a while, but now she's good to go. As she sits today, she needs a new tune, since some new parts were thrown on after the previous tune. But I digress from the focus of this thread.

A couple months ago I picked up a Toyota Supra project from a guy who couldn't complete it. Between his kids, & a nagging wife, he was forced to sell it. Oh well. His loss is my gain. Bought everything but the motor,tranny,ecu, & engine harness from him, since the motor was bad & he had another person wanting the motor. Can't really sell only the motor, so I helped him out by letting him keep the stuff for a full motor swap. Anywho.....his project is now my project. The car is sitting on jack stands as of today. But it'll soon find itself the recipient of a new JDM 1JZ-GTE twin turbo heart, which is sitting next to the Supra.:evil2: (Yes, the pics are old. Between school, & working on the car, I've only found time to take the pictures.)

So here's my build thread for my 1986.5 MK3 Toyota Supra drift project. Enjoy.

Here's some pics of what I've done so far.

Right after I purchased the car. Waiting for the tow truck.
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Couple shots of inside the engine bay....(not sure what that black canister by the firewall is)
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The Supra arrives at the shop where it'll receive it's new heart.
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Here, the Supra is pretty much gutted to where I want it. (spare tire will be removed once I get closer to firing the car up)
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All this unneeded weight. Gone.
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UPDATE Mar. 19, 2011.

Crossmember was pulled today. Found that the bushings that go between the crossmember & the car body are pretty much flattened. So I'll be needed to finding new ones (preferrably polyurethane). I took the wheels, & suspension off as well. Won't be using the stock strut/shock combo, so there's no point in keeping them on the car. I'll be getting new wheels for the car as well, so I'll be cleaning all those pieces, & selling them. Also, my lower & upper control arm bushings are shot to shit. There are lots of kits out there for these, so I'm browsing to see which ones have the best consumer backing.

Also found a motor, browsing around tonight. Motor, uncut harness, auto ecu (which means no speed limitation), all for roughly $1250 shipped. Still trying to figure out the motor mount situation. I've read that the '98 supra motor mounts will work, so I'm looking for good aftermarket polyurethane mounts for that year supra. So all in all, not too much physical progress was made today. But it's given me an opportunity to replace a lot of bad bushings throughout the car.

Here's a few results from today's work.

Old crossmember
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New crossmember
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And an even emptier engine bay
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UPDATE Mar. 25, 2011

Got a box of new parts in. Received my Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump, 1jz thermostat w/ o-ring, IMG, Battle Version traction arms & toe arms, & a full set of Driftmotion SS brake lines for all 4 corners. However, my Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator kit was not in the box :thumbsdow so I sent Driftmotion an email, & I'll be calling them first thing Monday morning to get that shit squared away. Also got me an engine harness from a 7m, so that when my 1jz harness gets in, all I have to do is swap over a few connectors, then plug the bish in:fyea:. Tomorrow, I'll be emptying out the fuel tank, installing the new parts, & hopefully be receiving more. Here's a couple pics of the parts I picked up today. The motor & tranny are expected to arrive this Monday or Tuesday, so things are about to really pick up. Stay tuned:hihi:

SS brake lines, Thermostat, Fuel Pump, IMG, Toe arms, Traction arms.
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Stock 7m-ge engine harness
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UPDATE Apr. 1, 2011
Received my motor yesterday. Everything looks ok so far, except that the ECU looks crushed, & the harness is cut in various places. The inside of the ECU hasn't been checked for fear of messing up the internals from static electricity. I also read that part of the wire harness IS supposed to be cut. Although it didn't mention what part.

1JZ-GTE
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Crushed ECU
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Cut portions of my "uncut" wire harness
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---------- Post added at 07:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:46 AM ----------

My new motor mounts. Level Zero Motorsports polyurethanes, baby! Stiffer than my wiener while watching a Stacy Keibler vs Trish Stratus KY wrestling match.
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Found out that the transmission that came with the motor was the W58 transmission. It's a much weaker transmission that went on a lot of Toyota/Lexus non-turbo cars. So I went out & found me a R154 transmission. As you can tell, the R154 transmission (right) is much beefier & stronger than the W58 transmission (left). Next step is to find me a bellhousing that will mate up to the 1jz motor. The one from the W58 has a different bellhousing-to-transmission bolt pattern.
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I also received my front subframe bushing kit yesterday from Raptor Racing. Knocked out the old bushings & put in the new ones, which allowed me to also put the newer subframe on.
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So I FINALLY got my damn subframe up & torqued. Two of the anchor nuts got sheered off inside of the body. I had to drill 2 holes, & do some breaking of brackets to allow myself to torque the 2 rear bolts. PITA, if I've ever experienced one. But alas......it's forever torqued. Bitch won't come down again, unless the mounts themselves break off. Also mounted the steering rack back onto the subframe, which also was a PITA. One of the new polyurethane bushings came to me too thick for the grooves, to sit flush. So I spent 2 hours slowly sanding down the edges to make it fit just enough that I could thread the bracket bolts down.
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I also began putting the suspension back together. Since I'm waiting for my front lower control arm ball joints, I figured I'd get a jump start on things, & put my polyurethane bushings in. I also did this with my rear upper control arms. With a rubber malet, & a shit ton of grease, these things went in like butter. Since I ran out of daylight, I have to put on the polys for the toe & traction arms on tomorrow.
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---------- Post added at 07:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:47 AM ----------

Had to completely tear apart the rear end in order to get the new polyurethane bushings into the hub assembly. PITA, if I've ever had one. Stock bushings have a metal sleeve that has to slide out. There's various ways to go about taking these out, but the simplest way is to cut it with a hacksaw, then use an air chisel to push it out. Not easy. BUT............I finally got them all out, with minimal damage to the bushing housings. Turns out the MK3 Supras have a multi-brake system in the rear. The E-brake utilizes a drum setup, while the normal hydraulic brakes use rotors & pads. I've never seen this before. Either way, FUCK DRUM BRAKES! I hate dealing with those little bastard springs. But I got the drums back on as well, & was actually able to make the system much tighter than before. Instead of taking 8-10 clicks on the handbrake, it now takes 4 to lock the wheels up.
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The front section of the car was much easier than the rear, in that I didn't have to fuck around with any braking, or the hubs. It was basically just installation of the suspension, & the lower & upper control arms. The lower control arms are nucking futs. While torquing down the passenger side, I somehow sheered off the impact gun grade stepdown that I was using. Don't really know how or why the fuck it couldn't handle a measly 195 ft/lb of torque, but it couldn't. Speaking of the torque, holy fuck that's hard to do by yourself, while underneath a car. Not to mention that the only torque wrench that was available (that went to the tq I needed) was a stupid dial. But.........all of the suspension is done, & put back onto the car. Next step is to replace worn parts of the shifter & linkage in the transmission. As of the time of this post, I have a bunch of parts on their way to me, so they should be here & installed by this weekend.
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mk3_4me

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Apr 24, 2011
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Sandy Eggo
So I was trying to do as much of my vacuum line routing as I could, today. Saw that I need to buy a few new lines, which I expected. One thing I noticed on the diagram, is that one of the individual lines goes out of the plenum, & to the back of the firewall, into some square sensor. I have no idea what the sensor is called, or if I need it. Can anyone identify it for me? It's sitting just left of the FPR, in the pic.

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hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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Driftmotion does indeed carry them or you can post a wtb thread and look in the forsale section.

I got like 10 people when i posted a wtb on both here and sf when i was looking for one.
 

mk3_4me

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Apr 24, 2011
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Sandy Eggo
Ok. Cool. I have one more question, if you don't mind. On this vacuum diagram, what is the sensor that the 2 vac lines connect to (number 17630)? I was looking at my motor, & don't see anything with the 2 nipples. The only thing toward the front that has 2 of those, is the fpr.
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mk3_4me

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Apr 24, 2011
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Sandy Eggo
Here's some pics of what I've done the past few days. Not too much, as I'm waiting for my wire harness to come in. Sent it to Sean @ myjzswap, who gave me an ETA of June 18th. Once that's in, it's pretty much balls out to get the car up & running. Hopefully I've eliminated the possibility of any snags that'll hinder my progress.

Received & installed my new serpentine & timing belts.
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Routed what vacuum & fluid lines I could, but there's still some that I'm not sure where they go. Like this one in the picture. According to pictures I've pulled from the net, the small nipple on the IM plenum should get routed into the diagnosis box on the harness. But if that's the case, I don't know where to run the vacuum line to, from where it's T'd off.
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I also have this little guy. Looks like a WG flange. But the turbos are internally gated. So I'm completely at a loss as to what this is supposed to be for. I initially thought it was for an o2 sensor. But that's way too close to the turbos. Or at least I think so.
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Last edited:

mkiiichip

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Sep 10, 2007
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Definitively o2 sensor. There should be a 3 wire plug nearby for it to plug into.

Looks good so far. Keep it up, the pay-off is worth the work.
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
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Apr 17, 2007
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That hose in the pic that goes to the isc there should be a vac line that goes with it that gets teed to it. No vac lines go to the diag box. Comes from the manifold then goes to the vsv then to the t.
 

mk3_4me

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Apr 24, 2011
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Sandy Eggo
I'll check to see where the other part of the line is going. I can't remember, at the moment. As far as the idle up valve goes, would I be able to run without one? The guy I bought the car from bought a SS line, AND the mk4 high pressure hose. If I use the SS line, obviously I won't be able to use the idle up valve. So.....would it be recommended more to use the SS line, or the mk4 line?
 

mk3_4me

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Apr 24, 2011
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Sandy Eggo
I checked where this line is T'd off to. Not sure what it's called, but it's a sensor w/ 2 vacuum line nipple on it that's bracketed underneath the IM. If that's where it's supposed to go, am I good to run the rest of it how it's routed in the picture?
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