MHG fresh block opinions

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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I've got a brand new long block available to me. I'm wondering if I should 1) just bolt everything together with the OEM HG torqued to 75 ft-lbs 2) Pull the head and install a MHG with ARP head studs torqued to 85 ft-lbs. (Since it's a brand new head/block will they need to be machined? I know normally they need to be machined but am not entirely sure on this.)

I do eventually plan on building this engine for 500-600 rwhp.. but would like to drive it around at around 300rwhp-ish till I have the money/time to build the engine for it.

Opinions are appreciated and thanks in advance.
 

Nick M

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Once the head is bolted on, the deck is slightly deformed. It still needs to be polished for the MHG. A good composite like the new OEM or a Permatorque from FelPro can handle quite a bit of power. Just not detonation. And on the other hand if you have detonation, better to push out a gasket the destroy a piston.
 

IndigoMKII

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hvyman;1724026 said:
Brand new as in from Toyota? Or rebuilt?

Brand new as in brand new.. Not a mark on the cams.. Or buckets.. Nothing. This head/block has never seen fuel/spark. I'm asking this because I don't want to push this engine only to have it blast a rod through the block etc etc.. Or destroy something because of a premature BHG while it's running around 300rwhp.

---------- Post added at 02:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:44 PM ----------

Nick M;1724028 said:
Once the head is bolted on, the deck is slightly deformed. It still needs to be polished for the MHG. A good composite like the new OEM or a Permatorque from FelPro can handle quite a bit of power. Just not detonation. And on the other hand if you have detonation, better to push out a gasket the destroy a piston.

I'd be running maft-pro with the 3.5 bar map sensor as well as a wideband to make sure I'm not getting detonation. lex afm/550cc's/ct26@12psi/full 3" exhaust/DM IC/hardpiping kit/apexi intake
 

Nick M

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I don't use the MAFT-Pro, but from what I have read about it on this site, the only thing holding it back is the people.
 

IndigoMKII

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Nick M;1724400 said:
When you bought yours, was it a long block, or did you buy a shortblock and head?

^wondering that as well. Because like I said.. Mine is brand new.. Just trying to decide whether I want to pull the headgasket and replace it with a MHG+ARP studs or.. Just tighten the head bolts in it now to 75 ft-lbs.
 

hvyman

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Block should be fine as long as you use the loosening and torquing sequences. Check both with a straight edge after removing. Head you can always just get machined if its out os spec.
 

Nick M

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If he bought a long block, I was wanting to see the disassembled pictures. I trust him if he says it is good to go. Most don't do what he did.
 

CyFi6

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IJ.;1724962 said:
Yep looks to be a ground finish rather than one done with cutters :)

Skip to around 2:15

[video=youtube;R0gE0D95gOA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0gE0D95gOA[/video]

Granted it is a 2j but I bet the 7m was no different.
 

Typhoon

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CyFi6;1741114 said:
Skip to around 2:15

[video=youtube;R0gE0D95gOA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0gE0D95gOA[/video]

Granted it is a 2j but I bet the 7m was no different.

I like that this video shows the sand mould preparation process. If people look closely, they can see what welch plugs actually do, and that is cover the holes where the inner pattern for cylinder liners is held in place and to allow moulding sand removal, NOT for freeze protection.:nono:
But the "freeze" plug myth will persist forever.
 

toyotanos

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Don't tempt him... He would make the next generation of Supra engines out of the shed, which would make me a very very poor fellow