metal headgasket

[89supra884]

well my head gasket went on my supra, and one of my friends has a hks 2.0mm mhg that he will let me have for 75 bucks. i was going to install it, but i know you are supposed to only install it after you have machined the block. but everything is in the car. i was wondering if i would be ok just making sure the block is really clean and install it and use arp head studs. thankyou

 

[IJ.]

If the Head and Block are up to spec yes if not No.

 

[89supra884]

this may seem like a dumb question but what do u mean by up to spec. like make sure the block and head are level?

 

[IJ.]

Flat, Level, and Smooth enough to suit the HKS requirement.

 

[89supra884]

what would u recommend to make it really smooth, just gasket remover and a scraper, or what else would you recommend?

 

[IJ.]

A stock HG with ARP hardware if you can't have it all machined.

There's little to no chance all 3 will be in spec and a single one out = fail and the job ends up costing triple.

Sorry if this isn't what you want to hear but it's reality, a few have rolled the dice and gotten away with it but personally I don't build grenades.

 

[89supra884]

so my best option would be the stock hg with arp studs, maybe ill just do that then, i dont feel like having my crap blow up on me again, i just need to have it run reliably untill i get all the money to build it. thanks

 

[IJ.]

Still check the block and head for flatness (specs are in the TRSM) and if all is well go for it, there's a lot more chance of success using the stock HG and ARP's if the rest is marginal in any way.

 

[GrKBooSt]

is there a way to just deck the block w/ the pistons and everything still in there? i don't want to pull it all apart..

 

[IJ.]

is there a way to just deck the block w/ the pistons and everything still in there? i don't want to pull it all apart..

You "could" do it only concern I'd have would be sealing it up and then getting all of the swarf out of it and I think that would take more time than stripping the engine and doing it properly.

 

[GrKBooSt]

alright, so i'm on a tight budget (don't mean to thread jack) but i want to save money, not being cheap cause i plan an engine build/swap next winter but i want to do a manual swap now. block is out of car anyway but bottom end is assembled. i don't want to put myself through more trouble if i tear it apart only to get new rings and bearings..

 

[CajunKenny]

I'll echo IJ here. If you can have both the head and block checked and surfaced (aka: machined) then run with a MHG. If you cannot have the machine work done, then an OEM with ARP hardware performs VERY well. Given that there aren't any other issues...

As far as rolling the dice...I've been rolling them for about a year. The difference is that the head only had 4k miles on it, still had a mirror finish, and all surfaces were within TSRM spec. I'm currently running an HKS 1.2mm. It's still a gamble even at that...

GrKBooSt: If the block is out, just replace the bearings. It's not hard nor all that expensive. Even on a tight budget. Driftmotion sells a full bearing kit for like $60.

I'm in the middle of the very same thing right now actually.


I'll add one more thing: BHG = Rod Knock. Therefore, BHG = New Bearings.

 

[oldsking]

If you can have the block and head resurfaced you are good just like Kenny said, WIth the 2mm HG you will be lower compression which equals more boost (With the right tune of course) If you blow the MHG then you can cause serious problems of warping which is not good for the block or head.

 

[GrKBooSt]

i decided it best i just clean out the block fully and make it brand new. for now i may just run a "stock" setup. ill make my own build thread soon..

 

[hvyman]

WIth the 2mm HG you will be lower compression

depends on how much has been removed from head/block previously and if/when he machines it. stock is 1.37 compressed so maybe just slightly lower but there is know way to tell just looking at it.

 

[black89t]

what ever you do don't lower the compression. the rebuilt block in my car has a 2mm hg with .024" removed. ran it at the last autocross of the year. off boost power sucks. my previous motor had a shaved head with stock hg and arp bolts. the torque on that engine was amazing. it would dam near burn the tires off idle. lol.

it was a great autocross engine.

i'm pulling that motor and so i can lower it for this season of autocross.

gl.