Custom Manual Steering Under $30
I enjoy all of the room in my car now that the PS is removed. Ive received a few questions in regards of how to make a custom manual steering rack - here is my experience:
Step 1: Procure a manual steering rack from a late-80's RX7 (FC3, FS3 ) Im not sure on the nomenclature exactly.... I purchased mine for ~$20 at a u-pull-it. No, the supra tie rod ends wont fit on the rack.... the threads are one size too big. And no, the steering wheel input wont fit either, its too big. And no, no, no, the rx rack itself is too short end to end to bolt into the supra. Be sure to remove as much of the steering input shaft as possible from the donor RX - all the way up to the firewall. (Dont cut it, the farthest bolt linkage inside the engine bay will give you enough.) DONT FORGET THE BRACKETS FROM THE RX.
Step 2: Center your removed PS racks from the supra and the RX and place them parallel with each other. Measure the length of the SUPRA rack, and figure out at what point you will have to cut the ends off. Just so you understand what is going on, once you put the SUPRA tierod ends on the appropriately trimmed end of the RX rack, the RX rack should equal the length of the stock SUPRA rack, from end to end. (Use the bolts as a measurement point.) Once you have calculated the appropriate cutting point on the supra and RX racks, re check it, and then check it again once you sober up. Dont mess this up. The amount of material removed should be the same for both sides of the rack.
Step 3: You will have to cut the tierod ends off of the supra rack INSIDE of the adjustable, threaded portion of the rack. These ends will be welded onto the RX rack. This enables your car to be aligned (DUH) after you install.
Step 4: Acquire either a dowel nut (9/16"?????? I think this is what it was.) or a mild steel tube with an ID similar to the tie rod ends and the rack end. The dowel nut is a nut meant to hold threaded metal dowels together - its about 2-3 inches long. The idea here is to create a brace for the two ends that are about to connect together. With the dowel nut or similar tube, cut a channel down the middle with a bench grinder, and crimp it together. This will create a spring action that will hold the ends quite firmly while you weld them together. Be sure to measure the ends of the rack for the appropriate distance before you weld.
Step 5: Wrap a cold, wet cloth around the rack next to the protective boot so that you dont cook the rubber with the weld. Weld a bead up the center of the channel you ground out of the nut/tube and finish the weld around the ends. Take breaks after short welds to preserve the rubber by keeping it cool. This should leave you with a set of supra tierod ends that will properly adjust and align.
Step 6: You need to look at the brackets and see how they will fit together in order to properly hold the steering rack in place. I cut the RX rack brackets in half and welded them to the supra brackets. After some grinding and proper placement of the rubber in the bracket, it was securely held. A bench grinder is handy.
Step 7: Install your manual rack in the position of the old one. Before connecting the steering wheel, be sure to get it straight with the wheels. You will need to weld the shaft of the supra steering input to the rack itself due to the difference in size. Dont worry, its not permanent. You can still unbolt it near the firewall if necessary. With the car on jacks, give the input shaft a quick spot weld and check the play/turning to ensure it is satisfactory before you weld it up. While applying the final bead to the input shaft, have an assistant slowly turn the wheel so you dont have to stop the weld.
Step 8: After all assembly looks good, take your car out, park your wheel against a curb, and pull the dogshit out of the steering wheel in both directions. Make SURE that your rack is secure and that the welds arent going to break. Unless you hit something sideways, this is most likely the time that it will see the most stress. If it breaks, you are a sucky welder.
This project relies on your technical expertise and common sense. If you dont feel confident about altering your steering, dont do it. Other than that, good luck.
Not to forget - thank you PROJECTSUPRA for your insight and answers to my questions. He is the originator of this idea - as far as I know. Give him some credit.
---------- Post added at 06:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:14 PM ----------
so i want to do this. but i was thinking about other options. maybe a 240 manual rack. (i dont even know if 240's had manual steering as an option)
any input.
doing it because my power steering is shot.
I enjoy all of the room in my car now that the PS is removed. Ive received a few questions in regards of how to make a custom manual steering rack - here is my experience:
Step 1: Procure a manual steering rack from a late-80's RX7 (FC3, FS3 ) Im not sure on the nomenclature exactly.... I purchased mine for ~$20 at a u-pull-it. No, the supra tie rod ends wont fit on the rack.... the threads are one size too big. And no, the steering wheel input wont fit either, its too big. And no, no, no, the rx rack itself is too short end to end to bolt into the supra. Be sure to remove as much of the steering input shaft as possible from the donor RX - all the way up to the firewall. (Dont cut it, the farthest bolt linkage inside the engine bay will give you enough.) DONT FORGET THE BRACKETS FROM THE RX.
Step 2: Center your removed PS racks from the supra and the RX and place them parallel with each other. Measure the length of the SUPRA rack, and figure out at what point you will have to cut the ends off. Just so you understand what is going on, once you put the SUPRA tierod ends on the appropriately trimmed end of the RX rack, the RX rack should equal the length of the stock SUPRA rack, from end to end. (Use the bolts as a measurement point.) Once you have calculated the appropriate cutting point on the supra and RX racks, re check it, and then check it again once you sober up. Dont mess this up. The amount of material removed should be the same for both sides of the rack.
Step 3: You will have to cut the tierod ends off of the supra rack INSIDE of the adjustable, threaded portion of the rack. These ends will be welded onto the RX rack. This enables your car to be aligned (DUH) after you install.
Step 4: Acquire either a dowel nut (9/16"?????? I think this is what it was.) or a mild steel tube with an ID similar to the tie rod ends and the rack end. The dowel nut is a nut meant to hold threaded metal dowels together - its about 2-3 inches long. The idea here is to create a brace for the two ends that are about to connect together. With the dowel nut or similar tube, cut a channel down the middle with a bench grinder, and crimp it together. This will create a spring action that will hold the ends quite firmly while you weld them together. Be sure to measure the ends of the rack for the appropriate distance before you weld.
Step 5: Wrap a cold, wet cloth around the rack next to the protective boot so that you dont cook the rubber with the weld. Weld a bead up the center of the channel you ground out of the nut/tube and finish the weld around the ends. Take breaks after short welds to preserve the rubber by keeping it cool. This should leave you with a set of supra tierod ends that will properly adjust and align.
Step 6: You need to look at the brackets and see how they will fit together in order to properly hold the steering rack in place. I cut the RX rack brackets in half and welded them to the supra brackets. After some grinding and proper placement of the rubber in the bracket, it was securely held. A bench grinder is handy.
Step 7: Install your manual rack in the position of the old one. Before connecting the steering wheel, be sure to get it straight with the wheels. You will need to weld the shaft of the supra steering input to the rack itself due to the difference in size. Dont worry, its not permanent. You can still unbolt it near the firewall if necessary. With the car on jacks, give the input shaft a quick spot weld and check the play/turning to ensure it is satisfactory before you weld it up. While applying the final bead to the input shaft, have an assistant slowly turn the wheel so you dont have to stop the weld.
Step 8: After all assembly looks good, take your car out, park your wheel against a curb, and pull the dogshit out of the steering wheel in both directions. Make SURE that your rack is secure and that the welds arent going to break. Unless you hit something sideways, this is most likely the time that it will see the most stress. If it breaks, you are a sucky welder.
This project relies on your technical expertise and common sense. If you dont feel confident about altering your steering, dont do it. Other than that, good luck.
Not to forget - thank you PROJECTSUPRA for your insight and answers to my questions. He is the originator of this idea - as far as I know. Give him some credit.
---------- Post added at 06:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:14 PM ----------
so i want to do this. but i was thinking about other options. maybe a 240 manual rack. (i dont even know if 240's had manual steering as an option)
any input.
doing it because my power steering is shot.
