Make Clutch Feel New Again?

[Emeraldage]

I'm wondering what you guys do to make your clutch pedal feel good again? Mine has a super short engage right off the floor and half of it is freeplay. The clutch is new. Sometimes when I do a hard engage or ride the clutch on a heavy acceleration all my fluid just spills out. I think it's the master because there is fluid inside of the firewall area. I fill it back up and it feels perfect engage throughout the whole pedal. But after awhile it goes back to just a short engage on the bottom.

Think I should just buy a new master and slave? They're not very expensive. My actual clutch and throw bearing are new.

Edit: Maybe I"m stupid and never realized you have to bleed the fluid line that could probably help? Lol.

 

[hvyman]

Bleed the system.

If that doesn't work replace your master. But if it's leaking into the cabin it needs to be replaced.

 

[suprasick]

^^ What he said. Also this might help when you have the fluid leak taken care of: http://bit.ly/1jmsyj1

 

[supranewbie]

If "all my fluid just spills out" you have a pretty obvious problem. One that you are capable of taking care of without asking about it. Find the leak. Replace what's leaking. Bleed the system. If you still have issues, ask away. Logical order for future reference.
Good luck

 

[Emeraldage]

I think there's just something obviously wrong with my master cylinder now. I hear a kind of crack noise every time I push the clutch in coming from the master, and the slave's bleed knob won't even come off. 9mm is too small 10mm strips it. I'm thinking about getting a master from Aisin? I believe they make several stock parts for the supra if I'm right? I've heard bad things about auto store master cylinder quality.

 

[hvyman]

jUST GET A MASTER AND SLAVE FROM DRIFTMOTION AND BLEED THE SYSTEM WITH NEW DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID.

 

[supranewbie]

 

[Emeraldage]

LOL. Amazon prime has Aisin master and slave. What luck! Lol. 55$ for both. DM says their master cylinder is AISIN as well so the stock was made by aisin. Hope the master isn't too much of a pain in the ass to replace.

 

[hvyman]

There are a lot of parts made by aisin on toyotas.

 

[slowma70]

get the aisin, They are the same as oem. It shouldn't take you no longer then 40 min to remove the master and bench bleed and install.

 

[Emeraldage]

There some panel under the dash you have to remove right? We'll see when we get there shouldn't be a big deal!

 

[RS713]

No, you shouldn't have to remove any panels. There is only a sliding pin that holds the pedal to the end of the master and 2 bolts that bolt the master to the body. Don't forget the clutch line from the master to the slave. Should use a box 10mm open ended wrench that way it does not strip. Also when you go to pull the master out, pull it the bottom portion up and then it should come right off. If you try to pull it straight out you'll have a difficult time because there is a little gap that the master has on it that secures it to the body.

 

[Emeraldage]

Thanks for the information. I was using an open 10mm on the bleed valve that's why I'm replacing it, why not it's old and only 15$ anyways. It all should be here Tuesday. My clutch pedal has always sucked but I kind of liked not having to push it to the floor to disengage it lol, helped my laziness.

 

[SiberianDVM]

I bled mine (along with the brakes) over the weekend and it made a huge difference in the height of the engagement, raising it from near the floor to only having about 1 inch of freeplay. I used a 10mm 6 sided hex socket on a extending handle Harbor Freight ratchet to break the bleeder valve open. This a cheap Supra that I am building into a Chump Car endurance racer, so I'm not sure how old the master and slave are, but the slave still had some bright red paint on it and the hose had been replaced with a new looking braided steel hose, so I'm hopeful they will hold up for at least one race.

If the rod on the master is supposed to have a clevis pin attaching it to the linkage, mine had been replaced with a short threaded bolt and nut, which was too loose. Tightening it some also helped eliminate some free-play. I found that working in this area under the dash requires that I either remove the seat or move it all the way back and then lay on my back in the footwell.

 

[Emeraldage]

Okay well got my stuff today, took about 2 hours start to finish including cleanup. I used a ratchet with an extender to a angle piece to the socket. Wasn't too hard but I couldn't get one back on 3 in a row i just dropped down into the dark abyss. Now my clutch pedal no longer has a crunch and I adjusted it so it sits lower with less freeplay. I definitely saw the leak it was from the master right at the firewall area. Thanks for the advice!