maf ohmz question

[j3r3my]

ok ill try to make this short and simple

i think my maf is gone so i tested it as per tsrm specs

ohmmeter to tha-e2 and its reading 002? would this mean its junk or that im doing something wrong? and if temp matters its about' 60-'65

just making sure before i go buy one
thanks again guys!

 

[hvyman]

Out of spec. That test is for the air temp sensor which is inside the afm.

What problem do you have with your car?

Do you have a k&n?

Try to clean it lately?

 

[j3r3my]

thats w.o a filter at all and im getting a code 51..and if i unclip the afm while running i see no change,also my afm isnt reading on my safc..

 

[j3r3my]

anyone else have any opinions? :1zhelp:

 

[Nick M]

anyone else have any opinions? :1zhelp:

Aren't you more interested in facts? He asked what is the symptom. Why are you asking about a MAF. Your car doesn't have one, just so you know. You have a volume air flow meter which measures in frequency.

So you measured thermal air (air temp sensor as already mentioned) and computer ground. A reading of continuity or near continuity means the resistor is short, or your leads are touching when you do the test.

 

[j3r3my]

Aren't you more interested in facts? He asked what is the symptom. Why are you asking about a MAF. Your car doesn't have one, just so you know. You have a volume air flow meter which measures in frequency.

So you measured thermal air (air temp sensor as already mentioned) and computer ground. A reading of continuity or near continuity means the resistor is short, or your leads are touching when you do the test.

Ok...I meant afm and I stated the symptoms...code 51,unplug afm no change in the way the car runs(idle ruff and breaks up when I rev it and sometims car dies when I rev it,also only read 3hz on my safc for my afm) and there's no way my leads were touching cause I put them in at an angle..that better?

 

[j3r3my]

ok so i removed my safc and came up with a few codes -_-...24,31,51 and 52....24 and 31 would be my afm correct? i also know that 52 is knock sensor wiring so thats not a big deal but yet again i get 51 would codes 24 and 31 cause the code 51?

 

[Nick M]

I stated the symptoms

.

Where?

..code 51

If your foot is not on the accelerator pedal, and the A/C is not on, then the throttle position sensor is not adjusted correctly, and the ECU does not think you are at idle.

unplug afm no change in the way the car runs(idle ruff and breaks up when I rev it and sometims car dies when I rev it,also only read 3hz on my safc for my afm)

Now was that so hard?

3 hz is low at idle. Either from the poor idle and vacuum, or the mirror is somehow sticky.

and there's no way my leads were touching cause I put them in at an angle

.

Then the thermal air resistor is short internally.

.

that better?

You don't need an attitude. You asked a direct question, it was answered correctly by hvyman, and then you ask if somebody else has an opinion. And that is the last I will say about it.

3Hz is too low, 51 means the throttle position sensor is telling the ECU you are not at idle when you are. Short in THA to E2 means the resistor is short. That is 3 different problems.

....24 and 31 would be my afm correct?

Yep. But you also unplug it while running.

i also know that 52 is knock sensor wiring so thats not a big deal but yet again

Actually it is, and that makes 4 problems that will cause driving issues.

 

[j3r3my]

wasnt trying to get and attitude..and thanks for he help what issue should i tackle first?

 

[Nick M]

You should look at the wiring for the knock sensors. They can fail, but depending on your climate, some have detoriatred wiring. That ist he 52. The ECU commands a weaker tune with it. 51 will hurt your idle, as will 3 Hz from the meter. A known good meter for swapping is an ok place to start. One that is free and not on somebody's car right now is probably not a known good meter. Or it would be installed.

51 is corrected by loosening the screws and turning the TPS until the 51 stops. It should only be a slight nudge.

 

[j3r3my]

thanks and im going to start with the afm then tps a knock last thanks for the help ill post an update when its all set

 

[j3r3my]

Ok so the results came to be a bad tps and afm..now I just need to deal with the 52 which is knock sensor wiring which I have a few questions about...

#1 it seems the reason for the code is my clip was ripped off the wire by one of my dumbass friends...could I just get a clip from the j-yard splice it on and be ok or do I have to do a full rewire?

#2 if I do need to do a full rewire were can I get the thin-net rg58 wire? I tried radio shack and staples but no good

Thanks for the help again!

 

[Nick M]

Radio Shack has coax. I know that is a fix from the old SOGI site. I don't know how much is redone with splicing and all.

 

[j3r3my]

yea but the coaxial cable they had wasnt rg58 they only has rg6 or 8 i forget

 

[Nick M]

So visit a store with large electrical like an Ace hardware or Lowes or something. I send Figgie a PM and ask him where to get good electrical supplies.

 

[j3r3my]

So visit a store with large electrical like an Ace hardware or Lowes or something. I send Figgie a PM and ask him where to get good electrical supplies.

thanks!

---------- Post added at 01:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 PM ----------

ace and lowes didnt have it neither -_- dam ks wire im going to pm that guy and see how it works out thanks again for the help

 

[j3r3my]

all set just spliced a new connector on and it worked out...now no check engine lights at all but yet another question car seems to idle ruff and when i rev it,it'll like hesitate then rev fine past 2k any opinions?

 

[hvyman]

Try adjusting the tps.

 

[j3r3my]

i tried from what ive read it says to make it so the tps wants to spring back then thats the spot but ill try to pass it and see if that works?

and once again thanks!

 

[j3r3my]

all fixed!!! thank god and its runs amazing thanks for the help guys!