Looking for input... Can't do a wheel alignment.

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,664
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Okay, next part of the car to attack... Steering..

I took my car in for a wheel alignment because I can't go above 180 kph without some shake-rattle-and roll... But they can't do one. My lower ball joints were replaced 4 years back and I have HSD coilovers on it now (lowered about 1.5").

I will have a list of parts I need today that I will have to find but both my inner and outer end steering links are seized. Only one of my rear wheels could be adjusted and they are all a bit out. I'm expecting that some of the steering parts I need have been improved upon so I will be starting research into this.

Have any of you run into this yet and have some recommendations for improvements? This is not a drift or rally car, it's a pure highway mk3 with about 400 rwhp now.

I figure... If I'm going to do it... Do it right. I am planning to possibly swap out the diff next month for a tighter one.
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
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Fullerton,CA
the steering shouldnt be siezed. you loosen the nuts and then turn it. If its ahrd you can soak it in penetrating oil.

Usually the front lower control arm bolts sieze which would require cutting the bolts out and replacing them and the bushings while in there.

for the rear best bet is to get upgraded arms since they have more adjustment. dm sells some and beech makes some.
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Yeah, after going over it all is that I need both front lower control arms (with eccentric bolts/washers, etc..), both front tie rods (if they come as a set with the ends... not sure), and the L.R. lower control arm (with eccentric bolts/washer/etc...) Then I can do it properly. The odd thing is.. one rear wheel isn't seized.. lol. I don't think I have to worry about that one because it can be set, but wonder if I should do the control arms as a pairing in the rear just to keep them equal...

Should I replace the sway bar links with the Beech ones? They aren't needed, so not sure if its wise at this point.. plus I don't do any hefty driving which is why I think they were made...

(Neither Beech or DM has the lower control arm... Beech has a modification for the stock... ) I could use the lower control arm that is on the car already, but guessing the bushing is going to be a lot of fun to get out. Thought it would be simpler just to replace the entire arm. (bearing in mind.. Im paying someone by the hour to do this... )
 

tlo86

Ninja Editor 'Since 05'
Jul 24, 2005
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cheaper tie rods will rust to uselessness and have to be cut off.. inners should be about 60 - 70 ea and outers can be 25- 30
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,664
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38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Read through that... It pretty well describes where mine are at. Just replacing the lower control arms altogether rather than pay time for dicking around. Also decided to replace both rear bolts/bushings. My brain sees suspension and wheels as matched sets... Best for balance