Hey ppl is there a way to bypass the rear light failure box to where you can remove it and just have it like a normal light set up? and if there is will the dash light stay on?
light failure box bypass?
- Thread starter 88MK3.
- Start date
i did the bypass and everything works perfict now and only took bout 30 min! why would u rather buy a new sensor?
To have the functionality it provides? Functionality you paid for? To keep the car original? To preserve its status as a flagship of its time? To have the satisfaction of fixing the problem right? To halt the incremental turning of yet another of these cars into a POS? I dunno, you tell us...
well by no means is my car a pos, its the cleanest all factory mkiii ive ever seen in person, id just rather have normal acting lights and from wat ive seen thos sensors have a habit of fuckin up
It's not all factory now. Now it's been hacked.
I've had 2 mk3 in 6 years. Only had to replace that sensor once.
I've had 2 mk3 in 6 years. Only had to replace that sensor once.
I dunno. I like having an indication that I have a burned out lamp. Much better than looking like an idiot with 3/4 brake lights on every time you come to an intersection.
I had to re-solder a corroded trace in mine when my tail light gaskets were bad, but I haven't had to replace it, and I've owned my car since 1996. It does mean that I also have to have the middle brake light active, but that's no hardship at all.
As for the lights being "normal" -- they ARE normal with the light failure sensor in place. Just what do you think that the sensor is doing to change their behavior?
I had to re-solder a corroded trace in mine when my tail light gaskets were bad, but I haven't had to replace it, and I've owned my car since 1996. It does mean that I also have to have the middle brake light active, but that's no hardship at all.
As for the lights being "normal" -- they ARE normal with the light failure sensor in place. Just what do you think that the sensor is doing to change their behavior?
:jetjock;1867291 said:
opcorn:: This might be one of your longer posts I've seen...Not to give the OP too much crap, but JJ makes a good point (I bolded for emphasis) here. It starts simple, but eventually you'll stop caring, and sooner than later, you'll lose interest in the car and sell it off to someone who will continue said bolded cycle. Nothing personal, but most nice cars start nice.
Not saying your car isn't nice, just saying that every bad habit starts somewhere...
My sensor has been acting up recently, its original. Does anyone have the part number for it?
Or know if you can get it new from Toyota?
I am tired of looking at that tail light box on my dash lol
Or know if you can get it new from Toyota?
I am tired of looking at that tail light box on my dash lol
Before you replace it, pull it out and open it up. It's not a very complicated circuit, you can probably see where it's gone bad pretty easy, and it's likely a simple job to fix if you can manage a soldering iron at all. Cheaper to fix than the $5 from a wrecker.
Otherwise, they're easy to find at a wrecker. From your sig pic, you've got an '88T, so you'll need a box from one that has the 1156 center brake light, so an '86.5-'88, or an '89-92 NA (no 3 pc wing). Any of these should plug in and work fine.
Otherwise, they're easy to find at a wrecker. From your sig pic, you've got an '88T, so you'll need a box from one that has the 1156 center brake light, so an '86.5-'88, or an '89-92 NA (no 3 pc wing). Any of these should plug in and work fine.
Thanks for the reply
I Pulled the box and gave my local Toyota dealer a call and they want 258.05 for a new one!!!!!
Sooo I am going to be looking for a used one lol (never soldered before)
My car unfortunately is NA:icon_frow
I put the 88 Spoiler on lol
I Pulled the box and gave my local Toyota dealer a call and they want 258.05 for a new one!!!!!
Sooo I am going to be looking for a used one lol (never soldered before)
My car unfortunately is NA:icon_frow
I put the 88 Spoiler on lol