The vehicle already has redundant grounds in every circuit but one. Therefore a "more is better" approach is electrically stupid, as is (generally speaking) increasing the size of grounding conductors. Most grounding problems are owner induced anyway. They do things like reuse the special grounding bolts Toyota put in the car, use a normal bolt, employ inferior types of connections, and fail to run new grounds to one of stock grounding points.
A near perfect grounding scheme is to replace the block, battery, firewall and engine to transmission grounds. Also add an igniter ground and chain it to the ECU and fender ground. Then analyze which of the redundant stock ground points are closest to the battery and chain them together with a single 10 AWG, ending at the new battery negative point on the left fender. Use new grounding bolts when doing it. When finished load and voltage drop test the chain from the battery negative to the center hatch ground, which is the furthest stock point. Correct any point that measures more than 100 mv. There shouldn't be any if you did things right. Finally, any future grounds added should go to the closest ground point, never to the chassis.
The process is not all that difficult to do and will completely remove any circuit's dependence on the chassis for grounding, while leaving it as a back up.