Going to the track on Sat and hoping for some good times. I chatted with Slow66 and going to try what he told me to do. I have a stage 4 clutch with a fidanza flywheel and stock r154, stock DS and rear end. Have some MT ET Street radials too!!! Going to try my luck on Sat!!
Launching with 5spds, post how you do it!
- Thread starter frontierguy25
- Start date
When I was into Drag racing I chatted with Duane and one thing that helped was to get rid of the Lightweight FW the hardest part of drag racing a Supra is the launch having more inertia helps the low power launches I know thats not very feasible for you right now but its a thought to keep in mind
lintlars;1240719 said:
I've been thinking about that, But there have been times I have made several passes at one track day and been fine. I thought about taking it out, that is just a lot of work though.
Lintlars: Man, you need to add some punctuation in there, I'm out of breath! :biglaugh:
Front: When launching the car have your clutch at the engagement point but not slipping it. From there, mash the gas and let the clutch out the same time. If you can build boost, that method has netted me 1.5 and 1.6 60 fts leaving with 8 pounds of boost. :icon_bigg
You have a 2 step? if not, you need to add one.
Duane
Front: When launching the car have your clutch at the engagement point but not slipping it. From there, mash the gas and let the clutch out the same time. If you can build boost, that method has netted me 1.5 and 1.6 60 fts leaving with 8 pounds of boost. :icon_bigg
You have a 2 step? if not, you need to add one.
Duane
Nope, no 2 step, just good ole regular mods. Launching at what rpms Duane? If too low I could see bogging out, too high spin? I guess I'll just have to try it out this weekend. What I was doing before was like a fast slip at 3700 and bogging then at 4500 would spin.
frontierguy25;1240750 said:
Oops, sorry about that. lol I was leaving at 5200 on boost. Maybe try some different rpms on your car and see what happens. You on slicks? ET streets, DR?
Leave at 4500 with a fluffy left foot. once the clutch is fully engaged slam the throttle! Dont forget to do tire pressure adjustments if you have spinning problems, and keep us updated!!!!! Another good way to feel everything out is dont be a hero on the first pass, use your first as a practice, get a feel for those stickies if you havent used them before
Ill try add some punctuation on future posts, another concern about the AL FW is some clutches do not play well with them Feramic full face tend to weld together.
I had those same tires. I started at 4k rpms, but bogged. Do a real good burnout before, and those tires hook real well! I was on stock suspension so that helped a lot though.
so....
rev to 4k rpms (adjust as needed)
find the friction point (like duane said, let the clutch out until just before it starts grabbing)
on the last amber light, pin the throttle and do an aggressive slip of the clutch.
If you spin your tires, don't lift. You will get better et's by just spinning all the way through first.
Once you get good at that, try drag racing a motorcycle..... then you fight wheelspin, and wheelies!
Good luck and tell us how you do!
so....
rev to 4k rpms (adjust as needed)
find the friction point (like duane said, let the clutch out until just before it starts grabbing)
on the last amber light, pin the throttle and do an aggressive slip of the clutch.
If you spin your tires, don't lift. You will get better et's by just spinning all the way through first.
Once you get good at that, try drag racing a motorcycle..... then you fight wheelspin, and wheelies!
Good luck and tell us how you do!
TheNewRed;1240912 said:
I respectfully disagree
IMO, your right foot should be thru the floor before the clutch is fully engaged (not too much before, but i think you get the idea). Gotta keep that cranks momentum going
(another reason why the stock FW is better IMO) With a good clutch that's just asking for a bog and a horrendous 60'. I'd much rather spin the clutch a little harder than to completely waste a pass with a bog. When I was 5 speed with shitty Nitto 245s, i would usually go to about 5000 and slip the rps quite a bit to keep those nittos from spinning. Only went to the track a couple times with that setup but did mostly 1.9x 60s. Not great, but I was satified consider ign the tire/track surface.JMO, YMMV, etc.
I got the LW FW because when doing a clutch change mine was all cracked and I couldn't find another one in time. But the thing that I like about this is when I have change the clutch I only have to change the insert in the FW. I've had this now for at least 6 years!
I'll take all your guys advice tomorrow and see what I can come up with. Thanks
I'll take all your guys advice tomorrow and see what I can come up with. Thanks
suprahero;1241126 said:
Yup!! I'm thinking about posting up just my 60' time and 1/8 mile time to keep you fools at bay until March!! :sarcasm::sarcasm:
Slow66;1241050 said:I respectfully disagree
IMO, your right foot should be thru the floor before the clutch is fully engaged (not too much before, but i think you get the idea). Gotta keep that cranks momentum going
Thats exactly what i did when i got the RPS installed, but it makes me so damn nervous even though its carbon, i just feel like its going to burn up, and/or warp the flywheel. I dont know how the Findanza is gonna hold up to these slicks?
well i engaged the clutch to the point where once you move like a CM you'll feel it pull a bit. then i start well try boosting and i take off right at 4300rpm and i usually spin with horrible street tires, so i lower the launching REV's to 3500rpm and its grabs good. But be sure once it goes green have your foot to the floor
No one preloads the drivetrain here??? I am used to twin disks on AWD DSM & I 2-step & pull on the hand break & release the clutch enough to preload the whole drivetrain, Preloading the drivetrain helped me save sooo many rear axles & wheelhop was none existence with that method...