If the Knock Sensor wire is temp disconnected and the ECU throws a code does it also change the timing or does it stay set to what it was? Does the ECU change anything?
Knock Sensor - ECU question
- Thread starter PorterzSupra
- Start date
As always!
I'd go with what JJ is saying as he has a good understanding of how the system actually works.
I'd go with what JJ is saying as he has a good understanding of how the system actually works.
If the ECU is not receiving a signal from the knock sensor the ECU will automatically retard the timing and run in a sort of safe mode from what I remember.
thats what I was afraid of but I wanted to make sure, I also herd of ppl taking it out of the block, relocate and wraping it in a rag, would this work? I have false knock because of my exhaust
I dont think it would do you any good. Best to just leave it in the block. It would do you more harm then good to run without it.
"I dont think it would do you any good."
you would if u knew how my exhaust keeps hitting stuff and randomly changing my timing for no apparent reason and even the slightest rodknock will set it off bigtime (not that I have rodknock)
you would if u knew how my exhaust keeps hitting stuff and randomly changing my timing for no apparent reason and even the slightest rodknock will set it off bigtime (not that I have rodknock)
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no, removing your knock sensors is a horribly bad idea.
did you know that its normal for slight pinging to occur during everyday driving? the ECU senses this and adjusts timing accordingly.
all you people with your band aid fixes are just asking for trouble.
you want to eliminate a VITAL engine sensor because you are too cheap or lazy to fix your exhaust problem (which theres a huge chance isnt even the cause of your problem...).
again it comes down to, spend some money now to fix a problem, or 2000 dollars later because you ghetto rigged your car.
did you know that its normal for slight pinging to occur during everyday driving? the ECU senses this and adjusts timing accordingly.
all you people with your band aid fixes are just asking for trouble.
you want to eliminate a VITAL engine sensor because you are too cheap or lazy to fix your exhaust problem (which theres a huge chance isnt even the cause of your problem...).
again it comes down to, spend some money now to fix a problem, or 2000 dollars later because you ghetto rigged your car.
Im lost. Your saying your exhaust is hitting the engine block enough for your KS to read it as a knock and retard timing?
If thats the case just get some scrap metal and make a few brackets to keep your exhaust from moving.
If thats the case just get some scrap metal and make a few brackets to keep your exhaust from moving.
I really don't believe that your exhaust would throw your a ks code. You need to check they wiring anybreaks in the wire will cause problems. And I mean breaks in the shielding because it is a thinnet cable it has a ground shielding. I have this problem, I have ran a ground wire to it nobe:3d_frown: does' nt do it. My advice is that if there is no breaks in the wire then you need to check the sensors. There is a way to test the sensors it is amongest one of the mk3 webs. Somebody here probably knows how too. Yes it does retard timing and add fuel.(limpmode)
Only if you think not understanding what happened comes before text books from Mr Toyoda's company called Engine Control Systems, or other similar ones like JJ has.
Our car runs a closed loop timing control. Closed loop isnt a temperature function, but temperature is one thing that affects it, just like EFI closed loop.
Closed loop is when the computer is responding to its own control. If you remove the sensor that is a main input to determing total timing after base, the computer will alter the settings to prevent engine damage. If you have KS wire or sensor problem, the check engine light will illuminate. This is a repost, again.
Nick M said:
My advice, ground the stock KS, or isolate it from noise, then get this:
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/
Seen it in action and works very well.
Then replace the ignition all together with an MSD setup, 3 coil wastespark. Do it. Or get 2, run 3 channels on each.
IJ. said:
LOL, guess you're screwed then.
If it comes down to it, I may get 2 of these for my current project, see how it works.
Yep I run a knock sensor with a series of Leds tucked under the Tach where I can't miss it!
Running 6 channel ignition with my standalone and 2 x 3 channel Haltech igniters it's fine at 22 psi/7700 rpm
Running 6 channel ignition with my standalone and 2 x 3 channel Haltech igniters it's fine at 22 psi/7700 rpm