JDM Engines

PorterzSupra

PorterzSupra

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I wanted to start a thread to share my experience and get other ppls thoughts/experiences.

I got a JDM GE engine about a year back, it would replace my 88 GTE with about 100K miles. My original engine had rod knock and EVERY oil seal on the engine leaked bad. The JDM engine is suppose to have 30-60K and I have even herd some dealers even claim 25-35! ** Anyway so I get it, it comes nice and steam cleaned it looked good. It had a jap oil filter on it and all. It was a Cres motor and upon taking off the oil pan found about half a quart of watery oil (but good HG) and a very rusted crank. The disturbing part was my 100K mile motor had much tighter crank bearings then the claimed "30-60k" motor. The engine did have good compression so I used it and all the oil seals held up great with no leaks, motor ran fine.

If I were to go with another block I dont know if I should go with a local junkyards 95K miles (in car with speedo) or a JDM "30-60K"

**http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=200015209163&ih=010&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
 
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I

IJ.

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2 schools of thought on JDM motors

Yes they're all low mile motors due to emissions testing regs and so on but and this is what would worry me the owners knowing they aren't keeping them for 100,000+ miles don't bother to maintain them correctly.

Back in the days when I ran the Toyota V8's every JDM motor I came across looked like the monster from the black lagoon had taken a dump inside!
 
NATAN666

NATAN666

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i also have bad experience with any "jdm' engines unless you can inspect the internals personally. my dad bought one from a subaru.. the cylinder walls were pitted as hell from rust
 
PorterzSupra

PorterzSupra

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IJ I was thinking the same thing..
"they aren't keeping them for 100,000+ miles don't bother to maintain them correctly"

"Back in the days when I ran the Toyota V8's every JDM motor I came across looked like the monster from the black lagoon had taken a dump inside!"

LMAO!!
 
I

IJ.

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I'm serious they all looked like they'd gone 30K+ and never had an Oil change or Coolant in em!

Not to mention a lot had sat out in the weather and looked like a science class mould experiement they were so covered in white fluffy corrosion!

Then there was the damage from the removal technicians as back then they hooked up the lift chain to the engine hooks lifted the car and shook the motor free only using the Oxy torch for stubborn parts. ;)
 
jdub

jdub

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If you're gonna re-build it, there's no difference in getting a JDM or US. The big thing is the condition of the head/block surfaces...is it pitted from a blown HG? If it's in good shape, decking for a MHG is not a problem. The cylinders can be bored (assuming stock size), the crank can be turned, bearings & seals need to be replaced anyway.

IMO, the JDM engines are a crap shoot to install one straight off the pallet. Build it right, build it once...especially the way you run your motor Porter ;)
 
jdub

jdub

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A low milage JDM might just be the ticket then...with 30-60K the cylinders will likely just need a good hone and a set of rings. Make sure the crank's balanced, spec the bearings, and you're good to go. I would replace the oil pump though...don't know where that things been. LOL
 
PorterzSupra

PorterzSupra

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Can you do new rings without honing the block? It seems like a waste of money if your running good compression already.

Can you do a compression check cranking it over with a breaker bar instead of using the starter?
 
Nick M

Nick M

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IJ. said:
Yes they're all low mile motors due to emissions testing regs and so on but and this is what would worry me the owners knowing they aren't keeping them for 100,000+ miles don't bother to maintain them correctly.
Click to expand...

Except for the ones that were wrapped around a tree.
 
PorterzSupra

PorterzSupra

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IJ. said:
Total waste of time putting fresh rings on a used bore they're not going to seat anytime soon!

At a bare minmum hit it with a flex hone to deglaze it.
Click to expand...

Thats what I thought... so the scratches help break in the new rings
 
PorterzSupra

PorterzSupra

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they want $350 to hone it plus I have to take off the waterpump and every possible nut and bolt on the block. They did tell me something usefull though, they said u can get this chemical that takes the allumium off the cylendar walls left from the melted piston, they said u can get it at the harware store and it wont hurt the block
 
jdub

jdub

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Nick M said:
Our hone is supposed to be with a 400 grit stone, not Sears bottle hone.
Click to expand...

I think the ball type hone is easiest to use...I think IJ has a picture of one.
Mic the cylinders to make sure they're in spec...don't forget to gap the rings ;)

PorterzSupra said:
they want 350 to hone it plus I have to take off the waterpump and every possible nut and bolt on the block
Click to expand...

What!?!? That's outrageous...it cost me less to have the block bores .020 over!
 
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