j-spec vs. a-spec
- Thread starter gmoney
- Start date
they're identical except for the throttle bodies, JDM has no EGR, there's no BVSV on the thermostat housing for the charcoal canister, and the coolant hardline that goes around the block for the heater core is different. thats all i can think of off the top of my head right now.
-shaeff
-shaeff
so buying one of those would be a better thing to do rather than rebuilding my engine. due to the fact i wouldnt have to cap off EGR, i would have to pull the engine anyway so i could get rid of my a/c. and my engine is missing alot of misc. parts, and my clutch is slipping as well so its a headache as it is but i need something so my car will run low 13"s high 12's is my goal i figure 350 400 whp with good driving and the right drivetrain could see that.
eh, it really depends. a JDM motor is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get. (read: it could be a dud)
at least if you build your motor, you know what you're working with, so there *should* be no surprises.
-shaeff
at least if you build your motor, you know what you're working with, so there *should* be no surprises.
-shaeff
forget about JDM engines now 7m is too old any that are left are well thrashed and have not had a service sence 1992 
rebuild your known quantity! or buy another dead engine for very little!
rebuild your known quantity! or buy another dead engine for very little!
one more difference - the vacuum fitting on the top of the intake mani for the brake booster faces a different way for the right hand drive cars.
Go ahead and rebuild your engine, it'll be better off in the long run
Go ahead and rebuild your engine, it'll be better off in the long run
gmoney said:
hmm lets see
zero miles or god knows how many miles
New parts or used parts.
well if you go forged everything . yep. If not. Shouldn't be that much more than a USED jdm engine.
i understand what you all are saying, but in japan they dispose of there engines with no more than 75,000 miles thats half of what i have and on my last car i did the j-spec swap and that thing moved and my buddy has a supra with the jdm engine and his car is not normal it hits boost cut with a full 3" exhaust and the k&n drop in, clutch, flywheel and na sport rear end.
gmoney said:
the problem is you hae NO idea what the condition of that engine is in. I would rather spend the 5-700 dollars for the rebuild (doing the labor yourself) than have to pull the engine out in a few thousand miles and rebuild it then because somthing fuct up. Oh. Wait. That's exactly what I'm doing!
I'm looking at aprox 500 in parts, a few hundred in machine work, and i'm assembling it myself. MHG, ARP everything. It will be very strong
well see heres the thing, i had to have a new head put on my car, and the the exhaust manifold had to be bored out to a 1/2 bolt because the shop before f---ed it up bad. so if i rebuild it i need a new head anyway, and my engine is missing alot of parts...
Bottom line: you don't know what you're getting with a JDM motor. Even if it came out of a Supra the day before it hit the docks with 60,000 miles, there's no guarantee that the previous owner didn't run the hell out of it. Rebuild the engine that you have and be happy KNOWING you have a fresh engine. Depending on what you do, it could be in the hundreds or thousands of dollar ranges
Since your engine is missing parts, you might be better finding a domestic donor engine for cheap. I've had luck getting whole parts cars for less than $700 and at least making my money back
Since your engine is missing parts, you might be better finding a domestic donor engine for cheap. I've had luck getting whole parts cars for less than $700 and at least making my money back
gmoney said:
If you want these goals you're gonna have to put a crap load of money in either engine. Rebuild yours.
^^ I would like to know what a 'crapload' of money is...
I figure my car will run mid 12's easily after i upgrade my turbo. So far I have spent just under 3200 on my car... That includes the purchasing price of the car.
walbro/afpr/safc/550's/j-tube removal
lex afm/apexi intake
JBL LR elbow/3 inch high flow cat/3 inch mandrel bent exhaust
MBC set @ 17 lbs; falling to 15 @ redline.
stock headgasket from elmhurst toyota w/ arp headstuds.
AMSoil 4 qrts w/ lucas oil stabilizer + Toyota Oil filter.
All on a j-spec engine with a claimed '55000' miles. When taking the head off; valves/pistons looked very clean.
just my .02
I figure my car will run mid 12's easily after i upgrade my turbo. So far I have spent just under 3200 on my car... That includes the purchasing price of the car.
walbro/afpr/safc/550's/j-tube removal
lex afm/apexi intake
JBL LR elbow/3 inch high flow cat/3 inch mandrel bent exhaust
MBC set @ 17 lbs; falling to 15 @ redline.
stock headgasket from elmhurst toyota w/ arp headstuds.
AMSoil 4 qrts w/ lucas oil stabilizer + Toyota Oil filter.
All on a j-spec engine with a claimed '55000' miles. When taking the head off; valves/pistons looked very clean.
just my .02
Disced said:
Yeah, but talk is cheap. It's funny how what you 'expect' isn't what happens when you put it out there.......If you want the car to put out HP reliably, you need to put out the money. And the only way to know for sure is to put it on the dyno or run it. Trust me, my dyno run wasn't what I expected :icon_roll
i know its a win/lose scenario but i might just take the chance because if im gonna rebuild i want to use aftermarkt parts.