Its been bugging me (2JZ, 1JZ flywheel)

[tlo86]

i have been thinking about it more and more... i put my r154 on my 2jz but i did not torque it like the tsrm said to torque a flywheel to the 2jz... it said to do 43 ft/lbs and then turn an extra 90 degrees. i think i might've skipped the 90 deg part... used loctite and ARP bolts. will this be a problem? should i fix it while the engine is still out of the car?

i planned on throwing in a new clutch in right after i break this one in but if i take this one off again i might as well get the new clutch now redo the flywheel install.... anyone have thoughts or input?

think my problem was looking at the 7mgte tsrm and the 2jzgte tsrm at the same time =( i greased up according to the v160 method as well.

 

[AF1JZ]

Honestly man, take the tranny back off and torque it right. I did the same thing kinda. I used the wrong bolts and later on realized it. So, I took the tranny back off and replaced it with ARP's with lock tite.

So, better to be safe than sorry.

 

[Bigzavs]

ya, while its out go in and retorque, prevent bad things from happening down the road

 

[tlo86]

so i should go back and do the 90 degree thing? sucks taking off the trans again but.. well it was actually easier than taking off an automatic which is what im used to

 

[AF1JZ]

I would start over like your putting it on for the first time. Take them all out, use some thread lock and put them back in the right order with the torque and 90 degrees.

 

[annoyingrob]

Ok, I speak from experience when I say this: Do it over again. The 90 degree is important.

I forgot to do that, and my flywheel came loose. It seriously takes you like 20 minutes to just do it over now.

 

[bountykilla0118]

off with his leg

 

[tlo86]

ive already started Lol.

 

[soapra]

i have been thinking about it more and more... i put my r154 on my 2jz but i did not torque it like the tsrm said to torque a flywheel to the 2jz... it said to do 43 ft/lbs and then turn an extra 90 degrees. i think i might've skipped the 90 deg part... used loctite and ARP bolts. will this be a problem? should i fix it while the engine is still out of the car?

i planned on throwing in a new clutch in right after i break this one in but if i take this one off again i might as well get the new clutch now redo the flywheel install.... anyone have thoughts or input?

think my problem was looking at the 7mgte tsrm and the 2jzgte tsrm at the same time =( i greased up according to the v160 method as well.

The ARP bolts need to be torque to 58 lbs and use loctite or any kind of thread sealant to avoid having oil all over the clutch. The 90 degree turn only applies to the factory bolts. Your ARP bolts should of came with a little paper with the torque specs.

 

[annoyingrob]

The ARP bolts need to be torque to 58 lbs and use loctite or any kind of thread sealant to avoid having oil all over the clutch. The 90 degree turn only applies to the factory bolts. Your ARP bolts should of came with a little paper with the torque specs.

d'oh. I missed the part that he's running ARPs. Yeah, the 90 degree part is designed to stretch the bolts a little bit to allow them to hold a little better. ARPs don't stretch. They just need a little more torque.

Still do it over though. You DON'T want to be re-torquing the bolts while the motor and tranny are in the car. It's NOT FUN.

 

[Troyota]

What are the odds that oil will come through the bolt holes...I didn't put any thread sealer/locker on my Flywheel bolts.

 

[soapra]

I destroyed a TRD twin plate the first time thanks to me no adding any kind of sealer, so it's very likely!

 

[Troyota]

Looks like I'm going to be taking my tranny back down then.

 

[tlo86]

ah so i just undertorqued still gotta take it apart.... should i use loctite and sealant? or just the loctite and be done ?

 

[annoyingrob]

loctite will seal it.