issues after injector and afm install, please help

[MA71]

Hey guys, kinda new to supras, but not to cars. Please help me figure out whats going on..

I just installed a set of Denso 550cc injectors (RX7 ones I think), a Lexus AFM, and a manual boost controller. I didnt touch or adjust anything else (I did however possibly mess up a couple ancient and crusty hoses when doing the work, maybe creating a small vacuum leak?).
I have my boost controller set ALL THE WAY DOWN, which means that it should be running stock boost, correct?
After the install, these are the issues that arose:
-the idle is low, sitting around 700rpms
-it runs rough, in general. pretty lumpy, not smooth.
-This is my biggest complaint: It's boosting weird. Before, the stock boost curve was pretty nice, just a simply curve, boosted to about 6-7 psi, however every once in a while in higher rpms spiking to about 9. Now it has pretty much No boost to about 2500rpms, then jumps to 5, then at about 3500 rpms jumps again to 10psi. It then pulls at 10 pounds the rest of the way. I wouldnt be That upset about this, except that it Restarts itself every time I shift.
Basically, if I start in 1st gear and run it to like 5000 rpms (at which point its boosting ~10lbs) then shift into second, the boost goes back to 0lbs and starts over. so when i shift it just drops and lags until finally boost kicks back in, no matter what rpm the engine is at when I shift. It does this for every gear, basically getting your hopes up at the end of gear before dropping them into the gutter when the next shift comes about, until the turbo realizes that it needs to be boosting and after some time of lag (no matter the rpm) it kicks back in, going from 0, to 5, to 10lbs all over again..

I hope that makes sense and that some of you guys can help me. If you can explain ANY of the issues above I will be very grateful. I have some hunches, but would love to hear what some real supra heads have to say.

Thanks a million
-Ben

 

[gaboonviper85]

700rpm idle speed is about right so i wouldnt complain about that...

second...did you check codes?

third....i really fuckin hope you installed a wide band before doing this crap to your car!!!!!!

you really should have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and also an upgraded fuel pump....as well as a fuel control system such as safc or the likes.

i cant answer your boost issue as thats not something i have much knowledge about....well not enough to trust the answer id give you so ill let someone else tackle that one.

 

[mk3tattoos]

and you have to get rid of the j tube! that will mess things up a bit

 

[MA71]

Thanks for the responses.

1. Previously my idle sat right around 1000 and was smooth. Now it is much more lumpy and sits lower, anywhere from 500-800

2. I dont know how to check codes. I'm assuming I need some sort of device like a vag-com to hook up to the ecu?

3. I've seen people run these injectors and this maf all day with running an adjustable FPR or upgraded fuel pump. As far as I understand it, those are mods that aren't necessary requirements just to run what I am.
Please correct me if I'm wrong..

4. What is the J-Tube??

 

[gaboonviper85]

You don't know how to check codes and you don't even know what the jtub is.....yet you are doing performance mods to your car...with all due respect, that's really stupid!

Checking codes requires 2 things...paperclip and the online tsrm<---do you even know what that is?

Slow your roll and learn before you start trying to squeeze more power!

 

[isnms]

1000rpm idle it to high.

You probably had problems before you threw this new stuff at it. Now you'll do double duty hunting it down.

Check your codes. The info on how, is here, just search. You might find some other info searching too....

 

[MA71]

with all due respect, I'm not stupid. I would just like a little help and a few suggestions from the community. That is, after all, what this is, right? a community?

I would like the add that the search function here Sucks! I am Definitely the kind of person to search for answers before I go asking stupid questions, which may explain why this is my first real post after having lurked on these forums for years.. This is a special situation however that a simple search cannot support.
I would really just love a little Help,, before I get berated..

Does anybody have any input or suggestions for my situation please? Possibly explaining to me HOW to check codes instead of just telling me to do it, hopefully...

Thanks again,
-Ben

 

[rayall01]

The j-tube is that little tube on the intake side of the block, that's welded to the oil block-off plate. The fuel return hose routes into and out of it. You can either drill out the cap with the pinhole in it, or bypass it altogether. Are you still using the stock boost gauge? if so, install an aftermarket gauge, as the stock is very slow reacting. You will get a truer sense of your boost #s. The rough idle, I'm thinking it could be spark, timing, or injector related. On my rebuild, I ended up with a bad idle, and replacing the coilpack fixed it. Pull the plug wires, or the injector clips, one at a time to try and find the weak cylinder. Check timing first though, as that will be an easier job.

 

[isnms]

You didn't even search.
Easy: You need Toyota tool SST 09843-18020 for check connector activation.
Make sure TPS IDL points are closed.
Read the two digit diagnostic code from instrument cluster

Hopefully this will help others searching for the same thing in the future.

FYI: Search works very well here.
it's a paper clip

 

[Supra87T]

You didn't even search.
Easy: You need Toyota tool SST 09843-18020 for check connector activation.

A paper clip will work just fine if can't source the SST.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

Edit: ISNMS edited his post and beat me to it! But there is the link for ya!

 

[ATL88Supra]

are you sure its a good idea to install 550's and the lex Afm and not have a wide band or afc? let alone stock fuel, the supra is not a toy sir, its a object that demands respect, if you do not respect its needs it will fuck you up,

now, if I was you i would take that shit off, put on the old shit and get my baby running to stock specs only then would i start upgrading.

I would start with the cooling system. then move on to fuel and supporting mods

Don't be a fucking supra noob.

 

[a_sesshoumaru]

hey as far as i know rx7 are high impedance injectors, we use low impedance ones, did you bypass the resistor box? maybe that`s why you feel your car is acting as it had a boost leak. I personally dont get how people get to use high impedance injectors in our cars, i have tried 2 times and could get them to work right. Try puting your all injectors back with stock maf to see it that helps the problem, if it does, get a set of 550cc low impedance type.

EDIT: hey guys help him, this thread is for the second page just critizing him. Besides the point of the 550cc lex combo is to keep the fuel system pretty much as the stock one, 25&#37; bigger each.

 

[MarkIII4Me]

I just installed a set of Denso 550cc injectors (RX7 ones I think)

I hope you had those injectors cleaned and flow tested. I use the low-impedence ND out of an 88 RX7 turbo that I bought from a member. When I had them flow tested, the numbers came back all over the place. Some flowed almost 25&#37; more than others. Running injectors this way would cause serious problems.

Do your injectors use the factory clips or did you have to splice in the ones off the rx-7? If they were a direct fit, then I believe those are the high impedence ones. If this is the case, that may be your problem right there if you didn't add the proper resistors.

If you had to splice in the rx-7 clips, did you solder them or use crimps? Did you insulate? Did you check the 20+ year old wires for splits, cracks, and corrosion under the plastic boots? When I first looked at my wires I thought they were fine, but upon close inspection I found otherwise. In the end, I replaced all the wires and only used the original plastic plugs.

 

[MA71]

My injectors are low impedance, I flow tested them before I installed them and they are all flowed fine.

I checked my codes today, these are the results:
Code 24 - Intake air Temp Sensor Signal
Code 51 - Switch Signal
Code 71 - EGR System Malfunction

Can anybody help me understand these better?
-Does the code 24 mean that my afm is bad, or just that the ecu is not used the lexus one, or what? I had a bad maf in another car previously and it ran Way worse than mine is running now, leading me to think that is not the case?? I dont know though...
-The code 51 relates to both the TPS and the A/C system,, how can I tell exactly which one it is? My car has the A/C removed, so it makes sense that it would be throwing that code. At the same time, my idle is stupid, also meaning that is could be something to do with the TPS. Is there any good way to decipher?
-Would a bad EGR cause any of these issues? I kinda dont think it would, but at the same time, I'm not used to Supras, so you guys tell me..


As far as the car running rough, it seems to be worst when I first turn it on, for about 5 minutes. no matter if its already warmed up or not. After I drive for ~5 min it smooths out some, not perfect, but better.

All thoughts are appreciated.

 

[rayall01]

My injectors are low impedance, I flow tested them before I installed them and they are all flowed fine.

I checked my codes today, these are the results:
Code 24 - Intake air Temp Sensor Signal
Code 51 - Switch Signal
Code 71 - EGR System Malfunction

Can anybody help me understand these better?
-Does the code 24 mean that my afm is bad, or just that the ecu is not used the lexus one, or what?



All thoughts are appreciated.

Run the Supra AFM, in the Lexus housing, as it's the housing that makes the difference, and not the electronics.

 

[Supra87T]

My injectors are low impedance, I flow tested them before I installed them and they are all flowed fine.

I checked my codes today, these are the results:
Code 24 - Intake air Temp Sensor Signal
Code 51 - Switch Signal
Code 71 - EGR System Malfunction

Code 24 is that the ECU is not seeing a singal from the air temp. It substitutes a default value.

Code 51 is almost always TPS. Adjust it per TSRM spec.

 

[isnms]

71 - your egr temp sensor is either unplugged or you have a crack in the egr valve.