Is this normal? Brake question

[DOUBL3 D]

Alright so my brakes have started juddering (from the front) and started squeaking a few days ago. I took the front wheels off and low and behold they're what's squeaking. New pads are needed for sure, there's maybe 3mm left, but there was some odd burns or scars on the rotors, that's my question. What are they?

Do I need new rotors or can I resurface these and just get new pads? I've never had to do brakes before, searched and found a thread for changing them but didn't find anything about what's on my rotors.

Any help is appreciated!


Pics.

 

[hvyman]

Those are hot spots.

Most likely from cheap pads being overheated.

Use oem pads or ceramics. They perform better.

I'd get new rotors as well. It's generally best to replace rotors after they have hot spots.

 

[emericaskater285]

I would replace the rotors as well. May as well upgrade while you are at it.
I used these guys for my rotors. I got the dimpled and slotted rotors and I am using their pads also. They are very nice, and look good too. I am not sponsored by them or anything (wish I was lol) but they do have a good product, for an amazing price. http://www.cquence.net/

You could get them resurfaced, and get new pads, but if they are heated like that they may be warped a bit too. I would just get new.

 

[DOUBL3 D]

Big 10-4. I might just go with Brembo blanks and some good pads. Once the tax return comes back I should be good. Can't skimp on brakes

 

[Poodles]

Measure the rotors.

Discard thickness is:

Front: 21mm
Rear: 17mm

The calipers and slides need to be inspected as well, or you'll eat pads...

 

[hvyman]

Ya slides need to be heavily libricated. I suggest sil glide.

 

[DOUBL3 D]

Measure the rotors.

Discard thickness is:

Front: 21mm
Rear: 17mm

The calipers and slides need to be inspected as well, or you'll eat pads...

I need to read into brake stuff as I wouldn't know what to look for. For now though, anything in particular I should be looking for with the calipers?

Hvyman I just saw you're from Costa Mesa. The Balboa Penninsula is the only place I've lived where I didn't have my Supra

 

[DOUBL3 D]

By the way I forgot to mention that the brake was difficult to rotate, though it was doable. The pad was pushed up against it, though I don't not know why

 

[mecevans]

The new and discard thickness is the same on the Supra. They don't want you to cut the rotors. Those pulsation you are feeling is caused by lack of parallelism. This can be caused by

-Worn wheel bearings and bent hubs.
-Stuck slides, pistons, and hardware.
-Improper break in and driving habits which warp rotors.
-Just plain crappy parts.

Check the wheel bearing before you do anything. If they are worn, replace. Next clean the hub and check for runout. Any more than .002" either the hub is bent and/or wheel bearings are bad. Clean all oil off rotors with a clean white rag and brake clean till its spotless. Install the rotors and torque the lug nuts. You may need washers. Sticking a screwdriver in the cooling vent can help here.

Next check runout at the center of the rotor. Any more than .003" and your going to have pulsation. If its out and the runout at the hub is good then the rotor is warped. Try another rotor or index it until runout is as low as possible. Clean calipers and push back the pistons. Clean sliders and lubricate. Verify smooth operation. Install new brake hardware and pads.

Lubricate lightly the back of brake pads that come in contact with caliper, piston, or hardware. Install pad spreading clips. Torque everything.

This is my recommended parts for a brake job.

-Brembo rotors.
-EBC Redstuff pads.
-All new hardware.
-Napa brake parts lubricant.

Optional
-ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid.
-Stainless brake lines.

[video=youtube;I5Mj_G5LIz8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5Mj_G5LIz8&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

[video=youtube;A_a6f-9LPi8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_a6f-9LPi8&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

 

[stew_7mgte]

Any kind of performance car should never have the rotors resurfaced, they will heat up and warp faster. If the rotor was hard to turn your caliper could have seized, might need to rebuild it.

 

[DOUBL3 D]

Looks like this is where my tax return will be going. I need to learn how to check for run out as I have no idea what to do.


1jz must wait

 

[radiod]

It's not uncommon for the softline to the caliper to collapse and cause the caliper to act as though it's seizing. I went through the trouble of replacing the calipers all together after trying to free them up numerous times only to find it still doing the same thing. Replaced the lines and everything was good again. Made a big difference in the feel of the pedal as well after they were replaced.

 

[mecevans]

The whole check valve in the brake hoses thing is a myth.

 

[hvyman]

Theres never check valves in brake lines.

There is a check valve for the brake booster so boost doesnt blow into it.

 

[mkiii222]

It's not uncommon for the softline to the caliper to collapse and cause the caliper to act as though it's seizing. I went through the trouble of replacing the calipers all together after trying to free them up numerous times only to find it still doing the same thing. Replaced the lines and everything was good again. Made a big difference in the feel of the pedal as well after they were replaced.

+1. I was having random issues with my front right locking up under hard braking even after fresh pads and rotors. DM 6 piece hose kit and some fresh fluid cured it right up.

 

[mecevans]

Theres never check valves in brake lines.

There is a check valve for the brake booster so boost doesnt blow into it.

No I mean the brake lines internally failing and acting as a check valve. Its an old myth from old school mechanics. Dragging brakes is caused by stuck pistons, hardware, slides and missing pad spreaders.

 

[DOUBL3 D]

Could you tell in my picture if my brakes still had the slides?

 

[Poodles]

The new and discard thickness is the same on the Supra. They don't want you to cut the rotors.

No, the front and rear are 1mm thicker when new. When resurfacing, you're usually only taking off a couple thousands...