Intake Dirty - Turbo, PCV or Something Else?

Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
967
0
0
54
Louisville, KY
Well, we ripped into my bhg project last weekend, and after 12 hours I was ready to send my head to the machine shop - just got it back last night. I have noticed a couple of things that I want to take care of while the engine's apart, but could use a few suggestions.

The main thing is that there is a dry, thin coating that begins on the back side of the throttle valve and continues into the head. The pattern makes it look like it was slowly deposited over time and the buildup is completely dry - carburator cleaner is doing a good job of cleaning it up. The guy at the machine shop thought the source could either be oil from the turbo charger or coming through the PCV due to "crankcase issues".

Main question is whether there is a way for me to diagnose and take care of the problem right now? Could there be another reason for the buildup, and is it normal as engines age (i.e. is it really a problem - car ran great b4 I ripped it apart, and even in spite of the bhg). I can post a picture or two tonight if it would help.

Other observations: I noticed a little corrosion/pitting on the front of the throttle valve which concerned me a little. I also had to scrap off a fairly thick layer of oil sludge from the inside of the valve covers (#3 center cover was completely shot and had allowed oil to leak and cover all 6 spark plugs. New one is due in today). Finally, a couple of fins on the compressor side of the turbo had a few small dings in them, although I had no indication of a turbo problem.

This is supposed to be a recent JDM swap and I know that there are no guarantees on mileage, but I am starting to wonder if this thing didn't have an ass load more than the supposed 40K or so they are supposed to have. I'm over budget on the project and considering finishing this job and selling the car. I hate to do this because it was I really wanted and spent more than 2 months to finding, but will get rid of it if I need to; unless, of course, these are typical problems you have all seen and not much to worry about. Let me know what you think, and thanks for your help.

Kurt
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
LouKY said:
I'm over budget on the project and considering finishing this job and selling the car. I hate to do this because it was I really wanted and spent more than 2 months to finding, but will get rid of it if I need to; unless, of course, these are typical problems you have all seen and not much to worry about. Let me know what you think, and thanks for your help.

Kurt
this is your supra's way of testing you to see if you truly are worthy of owning one.
 

Wendigo

Ericsplosion
Jul 25, 2005
331
0
0
New Paltz NY
The heads off. try and replace as many seals as possible. The classic "do it now or do it again soon" comes in here. Try and replace your valve stem seals. Can't hurt and you if you're getting blow-by it should fix that spot.
 

Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
967
0
0
54
Louisville, KY
Wendigo said:
The heads off. try and replace as many seals as possible. The classic "do it now or do it again soon" comes in here. Try and replace your valve stem seals. Can't hurt and you if you're getting blow-by it should fix that spot.


Thanks for the suggestion - valve seals are already done. Any other possible sources that I could positively identify as the root cause, and/or is there a complete list of seals, etc that I should tackle now? I am an admitted newbie, and would miss some obvious things on my own. Does everybody agree with the machinist that the turbo or some underlying crankcase problem is probably the main issue? Thanks, -k
 

jmcboost

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Missouri
Not to get off subject, but I am getting ready to do the same thing myself and was wondering how much you paid for the machining and other costs to rebuld. Maybe like a price breakdown of everything.
 

Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
967
0
0
54
Louisville, KY
jmcboost said:
Not to get off subject, but I am getting ready to do the same thing myself and was wondering how much you paid for the machining and other costs to rebuld. Maybe like a price breakdown of everything.
I think I may have paid a bit too much in places. Here's the breakdown so far: Tools and shop supplies ~$85, Toyota Gasket Kit $310, #3 head cover $42, Head Work (including new valve seals, a complete cleaning, pressure check, milling, etc) $202, ARP Head Bolt kit $96. That's a total of about $640 including taxes & shipping, and I feel like I'm missing one or two minor things. Still, it beats the $1,600 and up I was quoted to have it done for me.
 

mrnickleye

Love My Daily Driver !
Jun 8, 2005
825
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0
Mojave Desert, Ca
1) the coating inside the intake is normal on all engines, and comes from:
a) PCV system b) EGR system
Clean all the insides with carb spray, and the holes and ports too. Mine was that way, and I have NO blowby issues.

I see this coating every day at the shop. We offer an "induction system cleaning" service to clean it off.

Also...the oil in the spark plug holes comes from the main valve cover seals. The #3 cover helps keep out debri and water (if the spark plug boots fit nicely into the hole like they're suppose to).
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
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Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
mrnickleye said:
1) the coating inside the intake is normal on all engines, and comes from:
a) PCV system b) EGR system
Clean all the insides with carb spray, and the holes and ports too. Mine was that way, and I have NO blowby issues.

I see this coating every day at the shop. We offer an "induction system cleaning" service to clean it off.

Also...the oil in the spark plug holes comes from the main valve cover seals. The #3 cover helps keep out debri and water (if the spark plug boots fit nicely into the hole like they're suppose to).
Agreed!