in-car rod bearing replacement

[Amon]

Hi guys, long time no see

My 7M-GTE is showing signs (sounds) of minor rod knock. I feel I may be able to salvage the original rods and crankshaft by just replacing the bearings because the knock, though distinct, is rather faint. Has anybody tried to change the bearings with the engine still in the car? I know it sounds silly but it's been done before for similar cases, such as the Chrysler 2.7.

 

[Poodles]

It's been done, but it's harder than just pulling the engine.

 

[suprarx7nut]

If you have the space and means to pull the engine and do a good rebuild I'd plan for that.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Plus you more than likely have some damage to the journals.

 

[Amon]

I'm cracking open the oil pan and taking the rod caps off to inspect it myself. I hope the crank journal is okay, but, like I said, Chrysler 2.7's have suffered much louder rod knock than my 7M and yet have gotten away with in-car repairs.

Will notify with updates about the bottom end condition uopn inspection. The root cause still needs to be sorted out.

 

[mkiiichip]

I believe the subframe needs to be removed, or at least dropped several inches to make this possible. Which is why removing it and doing it on the stand is a much better option.

Its only an intimidating venture the first time. But by all means, doesent bother me one bit if you do it the hard way.

 

[Skeezix]

Tried it, took sub frame out changed all my rod bearings slammed it back together, it knocked within 5km so we towed it back and started ripping the motor out. Just rebuilt it now it is out again 120 miles later with a different rod failed. Save the effort and just pull it. Trust me its balls laying under the car trying to make stuff clean and plasti-gauge bearings.

BTW where in Canada are you?

 

[mk3-4-me]

Ya really just pull it out. Its really not hard, it just has a longer process. Ive done it like 8 times so far this year so its a breeze to me. lol

But youll be more happy when you do it properly and it stays together! lol

Good luck!

 

[Moy]

It's easier to pull the motor.

Support the engine/raise as much as you can. drop the subframe several inches. you now have very little room to work. plastigaging the journals for clearances is always fun down there.

I changed mine about 500 miles ago when I built little to no oil pressure and chewed the bearings. I checked the mains and they were 100% fine, just the rod bearings chewed because of the cylinder pressures. I used Clevite bearing guard assembly lube when putting everything back together.

I beat the shit out of the engine and the only thing that's let loose is the exhaust gasket (stripped threads and shitty gasket).

 

[ForcedTorque]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...-To-drop-Oilpan&highlight=staticpat's+redneck

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

As long as you caught it soon enough and the bearing didn't spin the crank and rod should be okay. If you can see cross hatching on the rod big end and no scoring on the crank check clearances and replace bearings. Easiest way is to drop the subframe if you don't want to pull the engine.

 

[Quin]

I owned the redneck rodknock fix car further on in it's life. Those bearings held another ~30k before the current owner ran low on oil and RK'd again. I pulled the motor apart to replace a broken piston and the bearings/crank/rods still looked fine, but it was a relatively fresh rebuild anyway. YMMV. Definitely be easier to pull the motor then do it under the car.