Im still having a problem with idling

[GreenChevelleSS]

I was getting a code 51, the idle was at like 1500 and when cruzing it would idle at like 2000-2500. When I would get on it kinda hard then push in the clutch it would die.

Well I checked the TPS, Bad
New one came today I put it on and reset the ECU
Idle is where it should be when I was cruzing it was still idling at 750 and not accelerating like it was,(put it in 5th and it would do 50-60 without me pushing the pedal)
Well I got on it and pushed in the clutch it went down to about 300rpms and the check engine like came on then it idled up and was just fine. I got on it agian and this time it just died.
When I got home I checked the codes, no codes showed up.
I checked the ISC and its clicking.
What should I check\replace now?

 

[GreenChevelleSS]

no ideas?

 

[CPT Furious]

I'm thinking, but I figured if I posted it would bump this thread up again, too.

 

[Anomili]

I had similar problems last year, but I still haven't been able to fix mine. I would suggest if you have a lot of time and no one else comes up with anything better that you check your injector o-rings (that was what I was told to do.) Also, it wouldn't hurt to check the afm. Usually when the afm goes the car just dies upon any throttle application, but since it takes about 3 seconds with a multimeter to check I would recommend it just in case. Finally, if you are getting as desperate as I was you can always check for vac leaks (use boost guage to check vac.)

Hopefully you'll figure it out soon, the injectors are a really big PITA to get at the first time and I would really recommend them as a LAST RESORT. The other tests are pretty quick. Otherwise, I am sure I am forgetting something and hopefully someone more experienced will be able to add their opinion. GL

PS. My situation: currently undergoing a turbo swap so that last problem has been put to the side until the spring. (I can't work on the car in winter.) Who knows, maybe the big ass turbo I got will cure the idle problem ... yea right.

 

[Anomili]

Oh I just remembered, my ghetto solution to the problem last year:

Idle control screw = backed out, really backed out
Effect: Car always idles at about 3 brazilion rpm, but it doesn't stall when I drop the clutch in. :evil:

 

[CPT Furious]

I would also start with re-checking everything electrical under the hood via the TSRM. TPS, ISC, AFM. All that normal jazz. Any little electrical signal that is not getting where it is supposed to be can monkey it all up. For example, the IDL and E2(?) connector on the TPS has a range of resistance that it needs...

 

[GreenChevelleSS]

Well ive drove it for the pass 2 days and its actually been fine so I guess the ECU had to adapt to the new TPS or something since who knows how long the old had been bad

 

[staticpat]

Mine would die after hard driving if I put the clutch in after I did quite a few mods. I reset the ECU yesterday so it could re-learn and it hasn't died yet.