Ignition and timing

[Inygknok]

Got a couple of questions. Was putting the timing back on this weekend and I kept having the same problem each day. I couldn't get the timing marks from the sprockets to the back plate PERFECTLY alined. Still, I managed to get the teeth with the marks at least half touching the line that goes all the way up to the mark on the back plate....


I don't know if that made any sense......... cuz even with the car in front, I couldn't explain it that well for a while to the 40-years of experience mechanic at home until he sat down himself with his glasses and saw it. Anyhow, if no one gets it, I'll take a pic.


Second thing. The spark plug wires on our 7M's are pretty thick compared to MANY other cars, so are they ok to use for about 350whp?


And third, I remember seeing in a thread a few months ago a discussion about copper spark plugs vs platinum. Which one should I go buy tomorrow? And just in case, no, I'm not using any nitrous. Ah, and I'm guessing I should stick with either the stock heat range or 1 level lower right?

 

[jdub]

Are you using the stock harmonic damper (crank pulley) to match up to the 0 deg mark on the lower timing cover?
I assume this is a new Toyota timing belt?

Stock plug wires are fine for most. However, I like the MSD wires.

Use either the NGK Coppers or NGK Iridium plugs. For the copper plugs, BCPR6ES is stock temp; BCPR7ES is one step cooler...it depends on how much boost you plan on running. Same thing for gap...go with stock gap unless your running boost near fuel cut, then you might want to take it down to 0.028 or so.

The iridiums are excellent and they should be gapped before installation, but they are expensive. The copper plugs will need to be changed more often...the iridiums last a lot longer. The only downside on the iridium's is they can "glow plug" after a series of very hard runs at WOT.

The Autolite 3923 plugs you read about here work for a lot of people, but I discovered they are 1/8" shorter on the ceramic side. My MSD wires didn't seat properly and that caused a slight misfire.

 

[Inygknok]

Are you using the stock harmonic damper (crank pulley) to match up to the 0 deg mark on the lower timing cover?
I assume this is a new Toyota timing belt?

Stock plug wires are fine for most. However, I like the MSD wires.

Use either the NGK Coppers or NGK Iridium plugs. For the copper plugs, BCPR6ES is stock temp; BCPR7ES is one step cooler...it depends on how much boost you plan on running. Same thing for gap...go with stock gap unless your running boost near fuel cut, then you might want to take it down to 0.028 or so.

The iridiums are excellent and they should be gapped before installation, but they are expensive. The copper plugs will need to be changed more often...the iridiums last a lot longer. The only downside on the iridium's is they can "glow plug" after a series of very hard runs at WOT.

The Autolite 3923 plugs you read about here work for a lot of people, but I discovered they are 1/8" shorter on the ceramic side. My MSD wires didn't seat properly and that caused a slight misfire.

1) Yes, using the stock crank pulley.

2) No, it's the same belt I was using before I stripped the car down. Worked perfectly back then too.

3) I'll stick to the stock wires till summer then.

4) I'm not really going to spend all that money on Iridiums, so thanks for the advice on the plugs.

5) Well, I'm gonna go with a MAFT PRO as soon as I'm done breaking in everything (by summer probably), so I guess that eliminates the fuel cut situation.......

 

[jdub]

1) Yes, using the stock crank pulley.

2) No, it's the same belt I was using before I stripped the car down. Worked perfectly back then too.

Did you mark the direction of rotation on the belt?
If you didn't (the TRSM calls for it when reusing a belt), you can get this problem. Timing belts can stretch slightly, but will look good to the naked eye...might want to think about getting a new belt. Check the tensioner as well.

 

[Inygknok]

I never even took the belt out, just the sprockets. Hence why I didn't even need to mark it.

 

[jdub]

Ahhh...you didn't say that

The marks should align then...why don't you post a pic. Both the crank pulley and the gears.

 

[Inygknok]

Ahhh...you didn't say that

The marks should align then...why don't you post a pic. Both the crank pulley and the gears.

Hehe, will do so tomorrow then. Gotta ask my buddy for his digi-cam again.

 

[mhopemk3]

Heres a pic from your last post..
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31116

 

[SupraDread]

Try this. Set the timing marks one tooth ahead of the timing marks with the tensioner off the belt. Then put the tensioner back on the timing belt and tighten. You should be dead on. BTW new timing belt cost about 20 bucks definitely a cheap and worhwhile investment.

 

[Inygknok]

Try this. Set the timing marks one tooth ahead of the timing marks with the tensioner off the belt. Then put the tensioner back on the timing belt and tighten. You should be dead on. BTW new timing belt cost about 20 bucks definitely a cheap and worhwhile investment.

Yeah...... you're right......... but I already got it timed damn it! :biglaugh:


If anything, since in the summer I'm going to be working on the car again, cuz that's when I'm going to buy the maft and start tuning, I'll do it. We just might open the engine up again to make sure everything's still ok. I'm only going to cruise with the car from January till June-July, but it doesn't hurt to double check again before tuning :icon_bigg.


Btw, more evidence that Pep Boys on the Off Topic thread :biglaugh: