I have a wierd idle issue, cold start i idle at about 1500 witch is fine, once it warms up it idles at about 900-1000rpm sometimes it will idle at 650-800. it never wants to make up its mind, sometimes after i put it into netural the car will want to die the idle hits like 200rpm and will climb back up to 1000, the car has stalled this way and does once and a while. ive heard cleaning out the ISC valve can fix this problem, ive ordered in a new gasket for the ISC. now my question is, cleaning the valve itself, ive noticed it has a black back on it that screws in with 3 or 4 screws, now is removing the back Black cover required to properly clean the valve? or is taking the black cover off a bad idea ? i would love some help. thanks in advance guys.
Idle Problem Fix
- Thread starter calgarysupra88
- Start date
You don't need to take the plastic cover off, just pull the two bolts holding it on and clean it up. If it's a turbo car, remember to check and clean the check valve inside the manifold at the same time.
GrimJack said:
:withstupi
I have taken off a few isc's and opened them up to find a nasty sticky sludge inside. Just remove the phillips screws and clean the metal parts of the valve with carb cleaner. I don't think they go bad other then getting enough crap inside to make them stick.
thanks for the responce, about that check valve, how do you remove it ? it looks quite flimsy and i dont wanna break it, any advice or tips ? it defineatly looks like it needs a cleaning. thanks again
calgarysupra88 said:
I would just replace it with a new one...probably been on the car for many years and throughly clogged with carbon. I did a write-up on cleaning the ISC in this thread...4th post down:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16437&highlight=ISC
Last edited:
Just out of curiousity, I replaced SupraDupra's ISC with a new one because it wouldn't park after the ignition was turned off "read, click click click...". Being an auto car, it was nearly undriveable.
I've had trouble with sticky, dirty valves before, but is there any way that a thorough cleaning could revitalize a valve that didn't even try to park itself?
I've had trouble with sticky, dirty valves before, but is there any way that a thorough cleaning could revitalize a valve that didn't even try to park itself?
Maybe - depends on why it refuses to park. If the windings inside are shorted, then it doesn't matter how much you clean it, you're hooped. In theory, this is what the resistance check in the TSRM is supposed to detect. They are actually DAMN pricey little units.
Yeah, cheap they are not. I've been inside them. My life long philosophy has been to autopsy everything even if it's headed for the trash. Every time you don't you've lost a valuable chance to learn.
As Grim says, as long as they're electrically OK and the bearings aren't shot then can be made to work pretty much as new. The stopper plate needs to be cleaned in addition to the pintle and shaft. As long as the shaft and plate aren't worn you should be good to go.
As Grim says, as long as they're electrically OK and the bearings aren't shot then can be made to work pretty much as new. The stopper plate needs to be cleaned in addition to the pintle and shaft. As long as the shaft and plate aren't worn you should be good to go.
supra90turbo said:
I have several good ones, cleaned and tested and glass beaded to look like new $40 ea.