so im adjusting my dashpot today(with the help of my girlfreind, why it was so hard for her to hold it at 3k until i said stop i dont know). any way my car idles at 1k wich im pretty sure is because of a shot tps, but i pulled the oil cap off while it was running to see if there was any smoke or air from blow by, and the idle dropped to around 700. i covered the hole with my hand and back up it went. so is this normal or a sign of a problem.
idle goes down with oil cap off
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Pirate air via the PCV system. Normal. Not sure about your girlfriend's behavior. You can check the TPS using code 51.
Ok, I did. Doesn't appear you're testing the TPS correctly but since both codes are TPS related it's probably shot. Then again since you have both codes and each part of the TPS is separate if it were me I'd check the wiring, at least the IDL contact. Short IDL and E2 and see if 51 goes away. The idle may come down too.
I mean on the engine harness. Engine not running. You don't normally check codes with it running do you? 
Did you read the link jdub suggested? Two pins on the TPS are a switch, the other three are a pot. IDL and E2 should show continuity with the throttle closed and VTA should show a changing resistance between it and the other 2 terminals as the throttle is moved.
Shorting IDL and E2 on the harness connector is the same as closing IDL. If the wiring to the ECU is good the code will vanish. Got TEMS? Turn on the key but don't start the engine. Punch the gas pedal. If TEMS goes to full hard the TPS is probably good.
Here's a link for high idle: http://tinyurl.com/ymhkog
Did you read the link jdub suggested? Two pins on the TPS are a switch, the other three are a pot. IDL and E2 should show continuity with the throttle closed and VTA should show a changing resistance between it and the other 2 terminals as the throttle is moved.
Shorting IDL and E2 on the harness connector is the same as closing IDL. If the wiring to the ECU is good the code will vanish. Got TEMS? Turn on the key but don't start the engine. Punch the gas pedal. If TEMS goes to full hard the TPS is probably good.
Here's a link for high idle: http://tinyurl.com/ymhkog
lifted said:
pull the EFI fuse ((located in the fusebox by the battery)) for about 30secs and your codes will be cleared.
Pull the EFI fuse. If the TPS fails to check out per the TRSM it's bad. Just that your description in the other thread about what pins you were checking doesn't seem right.
Since I said the idle might come down I can see why you thought I meant engine running. My bad. I was really talking about the code but you can short them with the engine running and see if the idle also comes down. You can do it either way. Just that I prefer to take one problem at a time when troubleshooting and codes need to be resolved before other problems because they're likely related.
The TEMS box uses the TPS to stiffen the shocks when you punch the pedal. Although it controls the shocks the TPS is only connected to the ECU so it needs to pass signals on to the TEMS computer. If TEMS works then it's seeing the TPS change resistance when you stomp the gas. This not only pretty much proves the TPS but also the wiring between it and the ECU and then the TEMS box. Shorting IDL and E2 will prove the wiring between the TPS connector and the ECU. All that's left for you to do is prove the IDL contact in the TPS itself by checking for continuity when the throttle is closed. Test it again when you pull it off as you have to yank it to replace it anyway.
Since I said the idle might come down I can see why you thought I meant engine running. My bad. I was really talking about the code but you can short them with the engine running and see if the idle also comes down. You can do it either way. Just that I prefer to take one problem at a time when troubleshooting and codes need to be resolved before other problems because they're likely related.
The TEMS box uses the TPS to stiffen the shocks when you punch the pedal. Although it controls the shocks the TPS is only connected to the ECU so it needs to pass signals on to the TEMS computer. If TEMS works then it's seeing the TPS change resistance when you stomp the gas. This not only pretty much proves the TPS but also the wiring between it and the ECU and then the TEMS box. Shorting IDL and E2 will prove the wiring between the TPS connector and the ECU. All that's left for you to do is prove the IDL contact in the TPS itself by checking for continuity when the throttle is closed. Test it again when you pull it off as you have to yank it to replace it anyway.
I don't remember what which terminals are which, I always check by signal name. I also check by voltage and not resistance because the ecu measures voltage. I seem to remember the outside two are IDL and E2 so you should have conitinuity on either the top or bottom two.
If not it's toast. Not that it means anything but I've never seen both portions of a TPS fail before. It's possible though since both circuits are mechanically connected inside the thing. If yours is really bad pry it open and look. Every time you toss something you've never seen the inside of before into the trash without an autopsy you're throwing away a very valuable thing. Good luck and be sure to set everything up after the new one is installed. And btw, you're welcome.
If not it's toast. Not that it means anything but I've never seen both portions of a TPS fail before. It's possible though since both circuits are mechanically connected inside the thing. If yours is really bad pry it open and look. Every time you toss something you've never seen the inside of before into the trash without an autopsy you're throwing away a very valuable thing. Good luck and be sure to set everything up after the new one is installed. And btw, you're welcome.
i shorted idl and e2 and no check engine light, i guess im about to spend 80 bucks on a new one. and i was planning on disecting it, i always take things apart to see how it works before it goes to the thrash. that valuble thing you would throwing away is knowledge, and knowledge is freedom. thanks for your help.
I know this is an old thread...but my idle doesn't change with the oil cap off...what does this mean?
johnathan1 said:
I don't think it necessarily means anything. However it does offer the possibility that the PCV system is blocked. With the PCV system free of obstruction the engine should be bringing in unmetered air thus effecting the idle... this is usually the case. Try cleaning out the PCV pipe, and TB's PCV inlet if those are clear check the ports on the cam covers.
i was just wondering. Wat is the normal ildling RPM? Cuz mine is about 1k and in the 1st post. He said it is because a shot TPS. Does that mean mine is gone too??Thanks
High idle can be caused by MANY things...lol
If you do a search for "idling at 1k" you'll find my thread.
Check your codes, and check for boost leaks.
Idle speed for Turbo 7M is 650 RPM, and 700 for NAs.
If you do a search for "idling at 1k" you'll find my thread.
Check your codes, and check for boost leaks.
Idle speed for Turbo 7M is 650 RPM, and 700 for NAs.
Normal hot idle is around 650 for a manual with the headlights, A/C, and defogger off. Keep in mind even under the best conditions idle speed is ECU controlled and can change based on everything from electrical load to oil pressure. For high idle troubleshooting try here: http://tinyurl.com/ymhkog
Johnathan: It means you only have 6 months to live
Johnathan: It means you only have 6 months to live