Ideal drivetrain components...

[born2drv]

If money was no object what drivetrain upgrades would you make and why?

Axles, Differentials, Driveshaft, etc...? What else tends to break on these cars?

Is there really much of a difference between steel and aluminum driveshafts other then weight? (it's only a 7-10lb difference from what I've looked into). Do fiberglass driveshafts have the strength of steel/aluminum? I've heard they are quieter, is this correct?

I'd love to hear everyone's suggestions and advise on beefy components for the drivetrain.

 

[Bishop92t]

Carbon fiber driveshaft (hey you said money was no object), rebuild stock differential personally I'm not that impressed with the JZA70 diff, rebuilt stock tranny. The MA70 drivetrain is quite stout unless you're looking to run sub 11s. I've seen a few people have their tranny gears treated with different methods but I have no personal experience with it. Instead of possibly wasting money, decide exactly what you want the car to do and we can go from there

The steel one piece driveshafts typically weigh 20-25 lbs, stock weighs around 35 and the one piece aluminum weigh about 11-13lbs. The thing is, rotating mass has much more effect on how the car accelerates then sprung or unsprung mass. The aluminum is well worth the extra hundred or two IMO. I've been running an aluminum driveshaft for the past 7 years and never noticed any additional noise, perhaps because both of mine were properly balanced. Never noticed additional noise out of steel units either, and never seen a fiberglass model.

 

[Reign_Maker]

Bishop, talk to Duane about his experience with carbon fibre drive shafts... *can we say splintered like a pencil?*

I'm going to do a one piece alluminum driveshaft, and get with MDC about his tranny rebuild kits, he has cryo'd parts for our trannies too... My lsd, I dunno yet, Im gunna see how well a tightened up stocker handles it...

 

[IJ.]

If money was no object what drivetrain upgrades would you make and why?

OS Giken Twinplate/ even at 500rwhp doesn't slip ever

Tremec TKO/ shifts like a dream and doesn't show any sign of fatigue

Strange Forged drive shaft parts/ Built to withstand 1000+ rwhp

Strange 9" Shorty IRS/ Custom IJ built but should be almost indestructable

Richmond Gears/ Any ratio your heart desires

Detroit TruTrac preload Torsen style centre/ Much nicer to drive.

427 Monaro/GTO Stub axles and CV joints/ as above

Seatrab Diff cooler and VDO Pump/ Makes the diff live at high speeds

 

[born2drv]

To be honest I love my auto transmission and I don't want to go to 5-spd. I'm getting a 400-500hp capable turbo installed as we speak (picking up tomorrow) :evil2: , but i won't be pushing it all that hard until i get a built auto, i'm also waiting to see what happens with the TH400 kits (prefferably with O/D) that i know one of the members here are working on making an adapter kit for.

eventually i'd like to be in the 500-600hp range if possible even more.

something in my drivetrain is making lots of noise, i have a feeling it's my differential so i'm going to be looking at tackling that area of the soop next.

i was looking at HPF's selection of differentials...
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Toyota/Supra_86-92/performance/Drivetrain/Differentials

i was considering getting the TRD model, and since i was going to replace the differential i figured i'd replace the drive shaft and any other cheap/weak components down there at the same time. the jaws models they sell look like a good way to go (btw is jaws = jawsgear?) ... i could care less about weight, the steel weights 7lb more then the AL, i'd be more concerned about strength, durability, reliablity, however if the AL one will perform better withou sacrificing those things due to less rotational mass or energy losses i'd rather go with that one. i also figured the steel one would have a much lower resonance frequency meaning it would vibrate less?

who sells CF driveshafts for our cars?

IJ thanks for the list i'll be lookin into those products in more detail

 

[jdub]

If you're going over 350 HP...you def need the auto tranny built. Got mine done at IPT...SP can build one for you as well. Stay away from Level 10...everyone I know has had nothing but problems with them.

I have the TRD LSD in a 3.90 differential. It's a 2 way, so it stays engaged on deceleration. The over steer takes some getting used to when you decelerate on a curve, especially at high speed. Whatever LSD you choose, have someone that knows what they are doing install it. Gear engagement, lash, etc. is critical and requires special tools. I replaced all the seals & bearings with new Toyota ones while it was apart.

I've got an aluminum driveshaft from Jawsgear...high quality shaft and is well balanced. It's not only lighter, but is more torsonial as well...i.e. it will "flex" a bit when you hit it with the HP/torque from the motor, absorbing some of the shock. Aluminum resonates at a different frequency than steel...IMO, it dampens vibration better. When I replaced my stock driveshaft, I got rid of a lot of noise/vibration...however, the single piece shaft will transfer vibration and resonate at high rpm vs the 2 piece shaft. Another option is to have a 2 piece aluminum one made and stick with Toyota's design, which I believe is what IJ did. Here's a write-up on the install:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16199&highlight=driveshaft

 

[figgie]

Bishop, talk to Duane about his experience with carbon fibre drive shafts... *can we say splintered like a pencil?*

I'm going to do a one piece alluminum driveshaft, and get with MDC about his tranny rebuild kits, he has cryo'd parts for our trannies too... My lsd, I dunno yet, Im gunna see how well a tightened up stocker handles it...

yes

that is better than having the aluminum sharpnel all over the bottom of the car

I rather have an expensive broom then the AL DS make a hole in the floor pan

 

[Stretch]

- HKS dogmission
- OS Giken tripple plate (money no object right, so i go tripple IJ :icon_razz )
- carbon kevlar ds
- Kaaze rear end
- Brand new bearings/axle assemblies on all corners from Toyota
- HKS shifter ball for the top of my dogmission, unless it comes with some cool one for free.

eric

 

[figgie]

for tranny,

i would look at either a Quaife sequential dog box OR Xtrac sequential tranny (guaranteed that the HKS is one of these two)

As for the clutch

forget OS Ginken

at a tune of $5000 usd.. a titlton Triple carbon clutch

http://www.tiltonracing.com/incs/imagethumb.php?picture=d0010

good to about 1200 lbs/ft

 

[NashMan]

i used light weight shaft and fly wheelfor some time and ilove it makes my car kinda rev like a rx7 nice and fast just the way i like it

sad part is you are on the go pedal more not muhc more

 

[IJ.]

Low diff gears +high 5th gear +high top speeds +one piece driveshaft = dangerous vibrating mess