I removed My Passenger side foglight housing to make way for a custom cold air intake (And Weight Reduction, Lamps were chipped anyway), and I got to thinking what could I put in place of my driver's side fog light housing? So I was thinking of putting in a Compact Power Steering Cooler But Im not sure if the High pressure hoses would adapt correctly to the moderately sized Cooler I had in mind. Has anyone else Done this mod or Have any opinions on what to put in place if not a cooler???? :naughty:
Idea for a Project, Feedback please!!
- Thread starter RedComet13
- Start date
RedComet13;1355926 said:
The cooler doesn't run from the high pressure lines. It's in the return line. Are you planning to adapt it to the high pressure lines by choice?
Josh, didn't you know how heavy the foglight housings are? It's the first place I'd start my weight reduction, coz it's so effective :sarcasm:
DO NOT TAP THE HIGH PRESSURE LINES
While some coolers may be able to handle it, it definately wouldn't be a wise move....
While some coolers may be able to handle it, it definately wouldn't be a wise move....
Well, the brackets for them might be a bit heavy as well, but nothing beats the look of a supra coming down the road rocking the fogs...
I loved my 3000K HID fogs (yellow), but cheap chinese shit doesn't last and now I'm rocking halogens again...
yellow fogs look sick.
op you might have a cai but its still going threw a 1300* turbo.(if your turbo). would be better to just get a upgraded intercooler.
op you might have a cai but its still going threw a 1300* turbo.(if your turbo). would be better to just get a upgraded intercooler.
i love my yellow fogs mad jdm tyte yo
good point hvyman but cai do have a slight hp gain denser air
good point hvyman but cai do have a slight hp gain denser air
hvyman;1356251 said:
The heat is made mostly from compression not from the heat of the turbo. the amount heated isnt fixed so going from compressing the air at 150F degrees inside the engine bay as compared to 70F degree ambient air could make quite the difference. Also at speed the air being essentially blown into the turbo inlet will help out efficiency as turbos don't do a very good job at sucking.
Just something to think about
My Driving lights are gone this time (9parts useless anyway)
Yes a CAI makes a huge difference to the IC out temps so is well worth doing but I wouldn't direct duct it as one big puddle will ruin your whole day
Yes a CAI makes a huge difference to the IC out temps so is well worth doing but I wouldn't direct duct it as one big puddle will ruin your whole day
tbcmorris;1356429 said:
When a gas is compressed it gets hot in simple terms. The turbocharger might be hot but the amount of time the air is inside a compressor housing is not enough to heat it that substantially. Pressure law states as pressure increases, temperature increases.
Taking say 1 pound of air mass at 70F degrees and compressing it from 0psig to 14.7 psig (1 bar above atmospheric pressure), effectively raises its temperature from 70F degrees to 140F degrees simply from increasing its pressure. As was stated a turbocharger isnt cold, nor is it 100% efficient at compressing air so it would gain more heat and the temperature would be even higher. i have no real life figures so im not going to speculate the end result.
Taking that same 1 pound air mass but at 140 degrees, closer to under hood temperatures, and compressing it to the same 14.7psiG (1 bar above atmospheric pressure) effectively raises its temperature to 280F degrees.
Thats a difference of 140F degrees (again based on strictly compression only, turbocharger inefficiencies and heat gained from actual temperature of the turbocharger itself would be on top of this increase) going into your intercooler.
This is based on pressure law and real life results vary but a simple thing such as a cold air intake can help out greatly, And what i was talking about the heat generated from a turbo charger isnt a fixed amount.
Turbochargers not doing a very good job sucking is because the way a centrifugal pump works doesn't promote good suction when a restriction is set in place. A centrifugal pump uses centrifugal force to "fling" the air in between the fins out towards the housing and out of the outlet. If there is a lack of air present in the inlet of the housing the fins will have nothing to "fling" and it will just spin.
Take a vacuum cleaner and put your hand over the tube, you will or should notice the RPM of the motor increases. That is because your cutting off the air supply to the centrifugal pump and since theres nothing to pump the pump is easier to spin because its not doing any work. A centrifugal pump can only pump if there is air to displace.
In comparison to a piston pump witch directly draws in a volume of air every revolution will decrease pressure (or create a vacuum, im trying not to be too technical or too simplistic) as long as the seals stay perfectly sealed.
