I need a new AFM

Anomili

Obsessed
Apr 9, 2005
371
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Last summer I upgraded my stock AFM to the lexus AFM, but I kept the original sensor. Recently, when taking the car out for the first time since the snow cleared, I noticed that it was idling terribly. I had to come back to school, but my dad took a voltmeter to the sensor and found out that there was no power going to it (and it was plugged in.) He basically figured out that it was dead when he unplugged it and the engine drove kept idling in the same way (terribly.)

Now, a new sensor from toyota will cost $1200 CAD and there is no way I am paying that. So I was wondering what my alternatives are, besides just going to a junkyard and prying a sensor off a junked supra. I was thinking MAFT? Are there any other options?

Sorry if this is a repost, but I searched the forums for relevant article and found none.

Any help appreciated,
Dave
 

Jetfixr757

Sleeper
Mar 30, 2005
259
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16
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Cocoa, Florida
Why don't you see if you can buy a used one or borrow a know good one for troubleshooting only. Then you would know if you have a dead sensor.
William 89T
 

Anomili

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Apr 9, 2005
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I kind of know that the sensor's dead... when my dad checked for any current or voltage travelling to the sensor, it came up as dead. No power = broken? I am mostly just wondering what else is out there besides the lexus afm.
 

Anomili

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Apr 9, 2005
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I trust my dad to have checked all that (I would personally but I am at school 500km away. He told me that he unplugged it and replugged it in with no change. I also trust him to follow the wires back to the ecu. If he says it's dead, then it's dead.
 

Supra Blues

Virgin Booster
Mar 30, 2005
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Supramania
Get used one man.

Not to beat a dead horse, but your dad test that there was continuity between the plug itself and to the ecu right? I'd be sure and check that first.
 

Shawndude

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Van BC
Any trouble codes? The ECU is pretty good in knowing when the AFM is fried, and will give you a code.

If there is no power getting to the sensor, than obviously the sensor isn't the problem, the wiring is.
 

Anomili

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Apr 9, 2005
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Originally the problem wasn't as bad. If you went WOT then the CEL would come on and the car would run like shit and smell like unburnt gas. The second you slowed down, the car would idle roughly then the light would go off and the idle would return to normal. I just called my dad and he said that he measured the resistivity of the AFM in two places. In one place the AFM showed no resistance and in the other it showed 100 when it was supposed to show 200. He also said he checked everything over to make sure it wasn't wiring. I think I will just need to find a new one.
 

Shawndude

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Van BC
I should have a spare AFM module around. Where exactly are you?

The AFM is hard to test. The TSRM specs never seem to work. Best way is to use a frequency tester (most better voltmeters have them built in).

What error code did you get when the CEL came on?
 

Anomili

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Apr 9, 2005
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I'm in Toronto, Canada. The problem with the CEL was that it would turn itself off after a few seconds. I thought that the light would ahve to stay on constantly for you to be able to read any codes. (I would have tried, but bear in mind that I was only home for easter and I had very little time.)