How to correctly bleed the brakes?

vas85

SupraNut
Sep 29, 2006
391
0
0
Sydney, AU
Hey fellas,
Im wanting to get my brakes bled to get rid of all the air that may be present but i'm not sure because our Supra's have ABS if it's any different.

From people who have done it, how do you recommend I do it, the best way.. I've also got Valvoline Performance DOT4 that I use for my brakes and clutch.
 

pimptrizkit

thread killer
Dec 22, 2005
1,572
0
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vancouver Wa
sorry...

fairly close, but i'll give you a walk through,

you want to start with the tire furthest away to ensure all the air is out,

so passenger rear, to driver rear, pass front, driver. some times it's eaiser to take the tires off, and if you putt a vac hose on the bleeder, it helps to keep the air from going backwards back in.

i usualy have some one give me a hand and do ten pumps -hold, open /close ~when draing slows, - pump brakes again, .... check fluid in resivor, ever 3-5 cycles it's never fun to pump air into the system


also you may have bad seals if you are having problmes bleeding the brakes and getting pressure to build, chekc for fluid around the master, and all brake componets.
 

vas85

SupraNut
Sep 29, 2006
391
0
0
Sydney, AU
Thanks for the reply Pimptrizkit, the fluids holding, brakes are fine like wiht good pressure, travel is probably 4cm or so.. 1.5'' but I guess i'm after that instant tap and you feel it really slowing down.. could tightening the cable do anything? or just need to get the air out properly??
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
0
0
Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Pimptrizkit got it right.

The best way to bleed is by using a pressure bleeder. Don't view it as just for bleeding after brake work, look at it as a preventive maintenance tool. Brake fluid is highly hygroscopic. Replacing it every two years will prevent sludge, corrosion, and maximize braking power by removing water. A pressure bleeder makes doing that a cake walk. You can buy a pressure bleeder for around $50 or build one from a $10 garden sprayer.

Vacuum bleeding comes next. Vacuum bleeders are even cheaper than pressure bleeders. The old fashion way of pumping the pedal comes last and if you're going to do that at least buy some Speed Bleeders to replace the stock ones.

If you want the hardest pedal possible use the old motorcyclist's trick after regular bleeding and find a way to apply heavy braking force to the pedal overnight. It'll squeeze out even the smallest amount of entrapped air left in in the fluid and send it up to the master cylinder.
 

pimptrizkit

thread killer
Dec 22, 2005
1,572
0
0
vancouver Wa
jetjock said:
Pimptrizkit got it right.



If you want the hardest pedal possible use the old motorcyclist's trick after regular bleeding and find a way to apply heavy braking force to the pedal overnight. It'll squeeze out even the smallest amount of entrapped air left in in the fluid and send it up to the master cylinder.


that last one ive never heard of,

i personaly like the old fashion pumping the peddle's but when im by my self i eally enjoy the vaccume bleeder, nothing like putting it on the rear leaving it for five minutes pulling it off letting her drip a few times and moving to the next one..

i droped my motor back in and reconnected al the harness while bleeding my brakes last time.

jetjock, good point almost no one ever says, that brake fluid abosrbs water and ruins alot of brake parts and maks braking worthless,

im gona try that heavy pressure over night thing, my sup ive replaced the master, and i still have a soft pedle, and my brother's 5spd car doesn't neither does my celica.
 

MKIIINA

Destroyer of Turbos
Mar 30, 2005
1,825
0
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Plano, TX
not a clue really. like it was said before the only way to get the air out reliably is start at the point furtherest from the block and move in from there. yours is exactly the opposite on how it should be done...