I just want a full raw answer as to how important they are, im possibly doing a CP piston build so .040 over is called for. How badly will not using a tourqe plate affect performance? im expecting 600HP out of this next motor, tops. O and are these torque plates made specificly for the 7M, and how hard are they to come by?
How important are torque plates exactly
- Thread starter TheNewRed
- Start date
If you want round straight bores quite important if not not so much.... 
Initial ring seal will be faster/sooner if bored and honed using a plate.
SupraRich has them available on his site.
Initial ring seal will be faster/sooner if bored and honed using a plate.
SupraRich has them available on his site.
you could post a WTB or "want to borrow"... i paid a guy like $40 and paid for shipping both ways and he let me borrow his.
Thanks guys. So the reason i ask is 1. everyone on here goes nuts when they hear you didnt use one. and 2. I was reading through my "Engine Blueprinting" book and it was stating the extremes that some guys go to to replicate the stresses on the block while in use, like bolting on engine mounts, waterpump housings(V8s), and even flow hot water through the cooling jackets. They also stated that there were power gains in certain cituations, b/c of the top of the cylinder is supposedly the weakest part and more compression is lost at TDC(blowby) if a plate isnt used(maybe i read that part wrong).
I'm going to see if i can borrow one, but would the block last at 600HP without using one?
I'm going to see if i can borrow one, but would the block last at 600HP without using one?
if your REALLY going to be building a 600hp engine, you wont over look the small things.
Have you priced out all of the machine work? The guy charged me around $80 because i had him use a torque plate to bore and hone my cylinders. and another $40 to the guy who i borrowed the plate from.
your talking about $150 roughly... one TIRE on a 600hp build should be more than $150... its such a small fraction to really hit 600hp, you'd be stupid to not use a torque plate. especially when they are available to the public now, either through borrowing, or through buying one from suprarich.
Have you priced out all of the machine work? The guy charged me around $80 because i had him use a torque plate to bore and hone my cylinders. and another $40 to the guy who i borrowed the plate from.
your talking about $150 roughly... one TIRE on a 600hp build should be more than $150... its such a small fraction to really hit 600hp, you'd be stupid to not use a torque plate. especially when they are available to the public now, either through borrowing, or through buying one from suprarich.
I AM building a 600 car( this thread is for engine mechanical, not lectures on tires, and if it is of your concern im running 255/60R15 E.t. streets on jegs sport stars, and M/t front runners)P.s. i never once stated im on a dirt cheap budget my friend, and please do not patronize meRennat;1194642 said:
...just asking for some POSITIVE knowledge on the subject matter.
i just know how i was... and how a lot of others are around here when it comes to that magic little 600hp level...
but yes you want a torque plate so that when you bolt the head on the block, it flexes the same as it did when it was bored & hones. and you want the timing belt tensioner torqued to 36ft lbs... IJ is the expert on that little thing though.
and dont worry, no question is ever too stupid... i asked so many questions while i was rebuilding my engine, and i dont regret it one bit. hope you can get one sourced though, im not sure what happened to the guy i used...
but yes you want a torque plate so that when you bolt the head on the block, it flexes the same as it did when it was bored & hones. and you want the timing belt tensioner torqued to 36ft lbs... IJ is the expert on that little thing though.
and dont worry, no question is ever too stupid... i asked so many questions while i was rebuilding my engine, and i dont regret it one bit. hope you can get one sourced though, im not sure what happened to the guy i used...
Rennat;1195351 said:
Its cool, im more just looking to lay down a really nice time at the track, not to just say i have 600HP.
I.J. can we hear your procedure for overboring?
So yeah i posted up in the wanted section, if anyone sees this that has one i can borrow please PM me so we can worki it out(ill pay you).
TNR: Nothing fancy just make sure all of the hardware you're going to use is installed and torqued to spec including the Cam belt tensioner.
ie: Main studs and Head studs, same style HG (I keep a dead one for this), the guys doing the actual boring "should" cover the rest but if they're reluctant to follow the above steps or try to tell you it's not worth their time take the block somewhere else.
ie: Main studs and Head studs, same style HG (I keep a dead one for this), the guys doing the actual boring "should" cover the rest but if they're reluctant to follow the above steps or try to tell you it's not worth their time take the block somewhere else.
IJ.;1195666 said:
Hi IJ can you explain this a little more, i spent alot on machining a year ago and had everything possible machined and balanced including the already balanced forged pistons.Are you saying the head should be torqued down along with the head gasket being used while boring? I never included it because i thought they bored from the top down not the bottom up.
Torque plate = Dummy head with holes for the boring bar to pass through, it simulates the stress and deformation caused by the head being bolted in place.