How do you keep your electrical plugs in good order?

[GrimJack]

I've used the dielectric grease upon occasion, and contact cleaner + gun oil as well, but what methods have you used to keep your electrical contacts in your engine plugs working well?

I've recently started to have occasional problems starting the Supra, in every instance popping the hood and wriggling the CPS, ISC, and TPS plugs has fixed it instantly. I'd rather have a more permanent solution, though.

 

[Silvasoup]

If there was a way to get gold plated contacts you would never have a problem of the contacts on the plugs oxidizing. I guess if you have the money and can find a plater anything can be done. Another way would be to find a source for that kind of plug. I am sure someone makes them. That to me is the reason why there are problems with Toyota plugs (ie oxidation). I don't know how many times I have had that problem with plugs, window switches and ect. What I do is wait for trouble to happen and then try to clean the item with contact cleaner and if that does not work I replace the plug or switch. There is no other way that I know of besides what you mentioned or the gold plated contacts.

 

[shaeff]

i'd give a look at some newer toyota cars, see what plugs are available from the dealer, and perhaps some will be the same, or some could be adapted to our cars?

 

[jetjock]

Some of the stuff is already gold but if you're willing to change connectors you can buy lots of gold flashed new ones. Allied or Newark Electronics stocks all that stuff. AMP CPC is a good choice for car work.

As for oxidation we can again turn to the aerospace sector for the best stuff: ACF-50 or Corrosion X. ACF-50 is all I've used for years. It replaces just about every chemical out there for this use and then some. It actually kills corrosion that has already started. It's also the best penetrant I've ever seen.

 

[Yellow 13]

Where can we get the ACF-50 and about how much do you pay for it?

 

[jetjock]

Google it. Available from any aircraft supply soucre. Chief Aircraft, Aircraft Spruce, anywhere. Or got to your local airport's pilot supply shop. About $14 for a 12 oz spray or around $100/ liter in liquid form. Not cheap but worth every penny. A small spray can will last for years.

 

[GrimJack]

Thanks JJ, I'm going to dig some of that stuff up and give it a go. Beats the hell out of spending $1000 on a new set of sensors!

 

[jetjock]

It's good stuff Grim. Used by the military to salvage aircraft and avionics that've gone down at sea. I've seen it do some amazing things on corroded aluminum. Corrosion X is good too. The two guys who invented ACF 50 had a falling out so one went and started Corrosion X. They're both pretty much the same chemistry. Another product, Corrosion Block, is simply the marine version of ACF 50.

ACF 50 is normally fogged into airframes under high pressure. It has great capillary action and weeps out of every joint for months. Messy, but shows what a great penetrant it is. It's not conductive but neither will it hamper contact resistance. I've seen operating TV sets submerged in it as proof.

No gimmick, the stuff works. I'm not a fan of using it as a light lubricant as it tend to be a dirt magnet when applied in the open but inside a connector it'll last for forever and works like magic. I've never had a single contact problem in any of the things I've used it on and as I said, it's the penetrant I've ever seen. When it comes to any type of product the BS stops at aviation.

 

[lagged]

im guessing the posts before mine suggested the same thing that i will: find new connector pigtails and solder them in.