Hello all, I was wondering if anyone has had the same problem as I am. With in the past couple months my engine bay has been really hot. The temp gauge is reading correct and I am not having any over heating problems but it is unbearably hot. You cant touch any part of the engine for more than 20 seconds without getting burned. I just changed the oil yesterday and I had to wait almost 45 minutes to take the filter off. I am wondering if it it would be the engine fan? I guess if the clutch is done on it? When I spin it, it will do almost half a rotation maybe a little more. Im not sure how tight they are supposed to be. If anyone has had this problem and input would be apreciated. Thanks
Hot Engine Bay Problem
- Thread starter MaxBoostedSupra
- Start date
Ussualy if the fan turns for a full 360 or more that is a sign that it's done. Also while driving on the freeway you will notice your coolant temp go up. If it's half a turn I say it's still good. My motor too gets really hot but has no problems. I'm gonna get the manifold and turbo ceramic coated to see the difference. I suggest doing the same
Other than the air intake, the coolant is the coldest thing in the engine bay, and its damn near 200*F. On a properly heated engine, there are not allot of places that are going to be comfortable to touch.
With that said, there are some spots that the heat does need to be controlled (but youll never notice a difference with your hand). Turbo and manifold heat-shields need to be in place. Both pieces of the rad fan shroud need to be there. and all the stock undercovers need to be in place.
Also most 20 yr old fan clutches need rebuild or replace (dont buy it from nappa, toyota only) The full rotation thing works, but i prefer to warm up the car, shut it down, hold the fan, and have someone start the car. A good clutch, will try to yank the blade out of your hand, and continue to pull harder. It only takes a second to tell if its good or not, you definitely dont want to keep holding onto a good clutch and burn it up. A bad clutch will hardly pull at all, and i have seen some i could spin backwards with the engine running, and it would take seconds to return. Just keep in mind that this is one of the main cooling system parts, and does wear over time.
With that said, there are some spots that the heat does need to be controlled (but youll never notice a difference with your hand). Turbo and manifold heat-shields need to be in place. Both pieces of the rad fan shroud need to be there. and all the stock undercovers need to be in place.
Also most 20 yr old fan clutches need rebuild or replace (dont buy it from nappa, toyota only) The full rotation thing works, but i prefer to warm up the car, shut it down, hold the fan, and have someone start the car. A good clutch, will try to yank the blade out of your hand, and continue to pull harder. It only takes a second to tell if its good or not, you definitely dont want to keep holding onto a good clutch and burn it up. A bad clutch will hardly pull at all, and i have seen some i could spin backwards with the engine running, and it would take seconds to return. Just keep in mind that this is one of the main cooling system parts, and does wear over time.
fuck that, I'm not losing an arm.
just spin the damn thing..
new ones are about $100~ from Toyota brand new, losing an arm or a couple of fingers will cost more..
just spin the damn thing..
new ones are about $100~ from Toyota brand new, losing an arm or a couple of fingers will cost more..
RazoE;1600783 said:
lol first day i replaced the e fans with the fan clutch again thats the first thing i did stick my hand in it while it was moving
My bay was getting extremely hot. Just like yours. Just ask spawntaker. I took my heat shield off my hood and my temps under the hood decreased drastically. And I also took the rubber seal off the back to let hot air out.
My engine bay is excessively hot as well. Heat wrap your DP and get a blanket for the turbo and your under hood temps should significantly drop. Its currently on my list of "things to do when i have money".
Well I took it off last week because of the 108* weather we are having down here. I kept it for the winter. It just gets too damn hot. Does heat wrap and a turbo blanket really help that much?
NTRA08;1600931 said:
Go boost the hell out of your car for a few hard pulls at night an pop the hood on and check your turbo's hot side as well as part of the DP resemble molten lava. Some folks say doing ceramic on the DP, Ex Mani, and put planket on turbo turbo can improve temps by as much as 25+ %. I have not however tested this theory.
NTRA08;1600888 said:
It's an insulator, if you don't like your paint, go ahead and leave it off. Also, removing the rubber seal will negatively effect cooling at speed (base of windshield is a high pressure zone). The hood isn't truely sealed anyway as it's open on the sides.
It's a turbo car, get over the heat or spend the money to ceramic coat everything...
my DD was getting extremly hot under the bay (heat index here is around ~110 in summer with 150% humity.. okay not 150% but im sure any one from the south knows what i mean)... wrapping the exhaust helped quite a bit.. tried the purple ice coolant additive and it helped a bit (not sure if you can mix it with the red coolant though? i believe it said any and all coolant)
You don't need any coolant additives. If you spend the big bucks on Toyota over priced red you will be fine. It is a good product. It is also old, and not the best. Surely IJ or jetjock has mentioned G05. Use it, and a proper radiator, even stock in good condtion is acceptable. That coupled with the proper 192 t-stat and working fan clutch, and you will not over heat. Now those pushing 500 hp, and always pushing it, you can get bigger core radiator and are justified in doing so.