Hose heat protection question

[destrux]

I'm going to be running a 3/4" hose (-12AN push lok oil hose rated for 257 degrees F, not braided) for my oil drain on my turbo, but things are really tight in there and it will be right against the manifold no matter how I route it.

I'm already wrapping the manifold with DEI black heat wrap, so that will offer some protection for the hose, and I was going to put the DEI or thermotec reflective fiberglass heat sleeve over it too (rated for 500 degrees direct/2000 ambient). Is this going to be enough?

What is everyone else doing to protect the turbo drain hose?

 

[IJ.]

It will fail in time, This is why most turbo drains have the length of steel pipe before the transition to hose, only thing I've found that can take the heat if braided Teflon.

 

[destrux]

Even the teflon hose is only rated to 500... maybe I'll see if I can make a drain out of tubing.

 

[IJ.]

Even the teflon hose is only rated to 500... maybe I'll see if I can make a drain out of tubing.

I know what it's rated for just telling you what I found to actually work....

Hard line away from the heat source would be the best bet, possibly use a flared end with a tube nut and an AN male fitting to make installation easier?

On the LS in my Mk3 I used Steel hydraulic fittings and Teflon right on the turbo due to space constraints but if I had to redo it I'd do as above.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Firesleeve.
Use what you will for the actual hose, then firesleeve it.
It's what race teams and aircraft manufacturers use. I used it for the oil cooler lines on my MR2.

 

[IJ.]

Firesleeve.
Use what you will for the actual hose, then firesleeve it.
It's what race teams and aircraft manufacturers use. I used it for the oil cooler lines on my MR2.

Great product but it doesn't really address the Hose cooking from direct contact with the Pushlock fitting he's thinking of using.
(see my above pic)

 

[destrux]

I'll probably just go with the teflon hose then... is the earl's 650 what you were using? That's the only AN hose I could find that said it was teflon and rated for 510F. Pretty expensive at $45/ft, but if that's all there is... that's all there is.

Were you using manifold wrap or a turbo blanket on your car IJ? I'm planning on using both, but I wonder if holding the extra heat in will be too much for even the teflon hose.

 

[destrux]

Talked to a friend today who designs fluid transfer systems for a compressed gas company, he said stainless steel fittings transfer heat 15 times slower than aluminum fittings and 4 times slower than brass fittings, so he suggested using only stainless where the fitting connects to a heat source. Also said using stainless bolts on the flange and a teflon coated fiberglass gasket material would help.

Going to try this, as I need the fittings anyway, since it seems that the only hose that works with the push lok fittings is rubber push lock hose.

 

[CyFi6]

Talked to a friend today who designs fluid transfer systems for a compressed gas company, he said stainless steel fittings transfer heat 15 times slower than aluminum fittings and 4 times slower than brass fittings, so he suggested using only stainless where the fitting connects to a heat source. Also said using stainless bolts on the flange and a teflon coated fiberglass gasket material would help.

Going to try this, as I need the fittings anyway, since it seems that the only hose that works with the push lok fittings is rubber push lock hose.

Hm, wouldn't you WANT the fitting to transfer heat faster? That way it releases the heat to the air before it reaches the hose? They are all going to reach the engine temperature eventually at the base of the fitting where it is bolted to the engine, but if it can release the heat faster that seems like it would be better than one that holds onto the heat and transfers it to the rubber.

 

[adampecush]

which end of the hose is going to be against the manifold? Perhaps re-route the line to the oil pan.

Otherwise, try a non-swivel fitting and position it such that the line is kept away from the manifold. I've got a 22.5 degree fitting going into the block sitting with the bend horizontal. Keeps the line away from the manifold.

 

[hvyman]

Hm, wouldn't you WANT the fitting to transfer heat faster? That way it releases the heat to the air before it reaches the hose? They are all going to reach the engine temperature eventually at the base of the fitting where it is bolted to the engine, but if it can release the heat faster that seems like it would be better than one that holds onto the heat and transfers it to the rubber.

Not really. Alum heats up a lot quicker than steel. So by te time alum is too hot to touch you can still rest your hand on steel. Same goes for tug welding. It's why you have yo stop welding in that spot with alum or else the whole area will just melt out and you lose the dime look. Steel you can just keep welding for as long ad you have wire.

 

[destrux]

Everything would normally heat up to the same temp, but the oil flowing through the turbo cools the drain fitting and hose down same as it cools the CHRA down. Otherwise the whole turbo would be 1000+ degrees.

The 45 degree fittings don't give me the clearance to keep the hose off the manifold either. I'm left with no option other than to fabricate a hard drain line. This should suck.

 

[IJ.]

I'll probably just go with the teflon hose then... is the earl's 650 what you were using? That's the only AN hose I could find that said it was teflon and rated for 510F. Pretty expensive at $45/ft, but if that's all there is... that's all there is.

Were you using manifold wrap or a turbo blanket on your car IJ? I'm planning on using both, but I wonder if holding the extra heat in will be too much for even the teflon hose.

Header Wrap a blankie and Ceramic coated....