Holset oil drain, -10AN is too small?

[destrux]

So... while planning my Holset install I ran across this. It seems like alot of DSM guys run Holsets, and they seem to be having problem running -4AN feed with only a -10AN drain line. Holset calls for a 19mm minimum drain size, which is alot bigger than -10AN (most -10AN are ~.5" ID).

Is anyone here actually having problems with the Holsets blowing oil past the seals using a -10AN drain?

I don't want to link to another forum, but if you google "Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small" you'll find the place I got this from.

I found a place to put a -12AN drain fitting on the turbo, but I would have to fabricate something custom for the block side, since all I can find are -10AN block drain adapters.

 

[bioskyline]

odds are you will have to drain it into the pan like the dsm guys are doing. i dont know if the block drain is big enough to support a -12AN fitting, which is why -10AN is what you find.

 

[hvyman]

Im pretty sure the jz pan can fit a -12 easily.

Pm wes beech or arz. My jz drain fitting is from arz and its top notch.

Edit just started searching and you can run a -10 but you would need to run a restricter. Or run a -12 hose like holset specs are.

 

[bioskyline]

here. im guessing alot are NA-T

 

[hvyman]

What is that? dsm pan. There drains are low.

He has a 1jz. You can drill the hole out larger if needed on the jz pan as it has a bolt on adapter not like the 7m pan.

 

[bioskyline]

yes thats a DSM pan.

 

[destrux]

The turbo DSM's also use pan drains, not just the NA-T dsms. The guys going to block drains are going overkill though I think. I don't see how oil is going to block the end of an oil drain. A funnel full of oil doesn't drain noticeably slower if you put the end of it in a pan of oil.

Part of the problem they're having is they're feeding right off the oil pump outlet, which is well above 100psi at redline in a well built 4G63. That's pretty high.

I think I could just buy a -12AN weld on fitting and cut up the stock oil return tube for the flange (or just cut a flange out myself) and just weld up a custom one. I'd wait for someone to make a nice billet custom one, but I'm trying to get this done ASAP before my kid is born and I have to spend all of my money on things for him to crap in and things for him to make into crap, lol.

 

[hvyman]

Actually yes If you stick a funnel with a hose on it in oil it will take longer to empty the funnel.

 

[MDCmotorsports]

A.) I don't think -10 is too small when paired with a properly working PCV vacuum system
B.) I can build you a steel -12 flange (engine) for the 1j/2j or 7m if you need. I still have tons of that crap laying around from back in the day

 

[TrqMnstr]

............B.) I can build you a steel -12 flange (engine) for the 1j/2j or 7m if you need. I still have tons of that crap laying around from back in the day

You have PM

 

[destrux]

I've seen this brought up before, but is the hole in the block for the drain larger than 1/2" ID? It looks like it would be, but I haven't had the stock flange off to verify it yet. If I get time later I'll put it on the lift and check.

I found a high quality full ID -12AN kit here (http://www.racepartsolutions.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RPS-Oildrainkit-T6) and it comes with an aluminum weld on fitting; I'll just weld it to the stock aluminum drain tube after I cut the Y part off. I never plan on going back to the stock twins anyway.

I'd just do the -10AN, since I do have a full PCV system, but the more I think about it, the more I like the extra insurance of the bigger drain.

Edit: For future reference the hole in the oil pan is 1" ID and is above the oil level in the pan, also the stock aluminum 1JZ oil drain fitting that bolts to the pan is the perfect size to weld a -12AN weld bung to, but you could go as large as -16AN if desired because the ID is there to support it, as the fitting is also a full 1" ID after the Y.

 

[destrux]

Quick update on this...

Not much of that worked out. Not enough room under the turbo for AN fittings, and bending a hard tube was not working out either.

I ended up buying a drain tube from a 2005 Ram 2500 5.9L (diesel) which has a flange on one end that goes to the turbo of a 12" corrugated stainless steel tube that you can bend to fit with your hands. The other end of it was the perfect size to slide a piece of 3/4" hose over it. I connected it to the pan by cutting the top off the stock aluminum pan fitting and welding a -12N bung with a -12AN straight push-lok fitting on it, then slid a 4.5" long piece of -12AN Parker Push-lok oil hose to connect everything, I clamped it just to be safe. Then wrapped the SS tube with DEI reflective heat tape. With the turbo red hot I can touch the hose without burning myself, and the SS tube isn't very hot at the bottom either, only ~200 degrees F according to my laser temp gun. I also wrapped the manifold with heat wrap, which helped.