hiccup/misfire at low throttle inputs. driving me nuts!

suprajztwenty

Member
Nov 5, 2009
369
0
16
corinth tx
the problem
at low throttle inputs/low rpms for about .5-1.5 seconds it seems to drop all spark like flicking a switch off then back on. (afr's go max 10 when this happens). its very intermittent it happens maybe every 30-45 seconds if there were any average to timing. then at other times its gone a few miles inbetween doing this.
the problem doesnt respond/coincide with bumps/turns/wiggle tests of any kind. besides this problem, the car runs absolutely perfect, itll idle all day long and not miss a beat just sitting there. only does this when it has a load on it/driving on road.
my prime suspect right now is the ignitor. its very hot to the touch but doesnt smell burnt and ive had the add'l ground since like the first month of ownership.
reasons i think the ignitor now
A: i had an IGF simulator in the system. everything worked well but its a suspect...
b: for about 1k miles i was running v6 camy coils i modded to work. 3 cop/3wire setup. not running this now, went back to stock coils/wires first thing.


background
early 89 turbo car "gray plug"(yellow in disguise) successfully swapped to pre89 yellow ecu/harness. been running this way for a couple years now.
after the swap i got a greddy emanage blue with ignition/injector add on. wired it all up with the ignition simulator i had to fabricate.
i never really adjusted timing but for a few pulls to test that it was working but keep in mind, the IGF simulator is always sending a bullshit signal back to the ecu, so even though i wasnt tuning timing, maybe this was damaging the ignitor somehow?

i did the aem 320 pump with its own independent battery power/relay (relay is triggered on from an acc power from one of the terminals left from the "tail fail" connector) not sure if this would be related, but electrical wise its about the only other thing modified/tied into. this setup has been and is still working for well over a few months now.

one night i was trying to tune out a rich spot with the afm signal, when i finally gave up and went to pull into my parking spot, the engine died and wouldnt crank (no power at starter signal) i jumpered the starter with a new trigger wire and limped home 15 miles. the whole way home it was doing the hiccup thing pretty bad and the tach jumped around a bit (only time ive seen the tach jump, never returned) when i got home i noticed the alt was really hot and figured it was just shot and was sending AC into the system...seemed to make sense anyways...

i left it parked for awhile, replaced the alt. hiccup still there but not as bad as it was doing it that night i retired it. (also note i think the longer it runs the worse it gets) the new alternator gets pretty damn warm but not as bad as before.

on a side note (think this is completely unrelated now) i decided to just drive it until it was gonna show an actual symptom. i hit a pretty hard bump and popped the 7.5 "gauge" fuse. thinking this was a related issue i stripped everything out of the dash and found some goobered wires by the radio. ive cut all that out and drove 20 miles+ without the fuse blowing now. the hiccup is still there though, more noticeable at highway cruising.


other things ive tried
tps is brand new, adjusted to spec and also attempted to adjust so idle switch would never engage (felt like the IDL switch may had been the culprit, i know now it was not because i ran new bypass wires to the tps and cut out the stock harness except for the blue/red 5v because it also feeds the afm.)
coil pack/coil pack harness/wires/plugs
wiggled ENTIRE engine harness all the way back to the ecu.

things im about to try
i have a repalcement ignitor being shipped (green plug this time to match my yellow plug ecu/harness)
disconnect alternator and run it
repalce the integration relay (plugs into left kick fuse panel) saw its in the path of the 7.5 gauge fuse...might be a long shot but worth a try.
add 900 grounds accross the car
buy a case of beer, a case of gas, a case of matches and get drunk while i watch the bitch burn.

PLEASE help, im at my wits end. my only other idea would be to find a shell and swap over every single electrical item.

any/all advice is ALWAYS extremely appreciated.

thanks in advance

ps, im about to clarkson this thing for real VVVVVVVVVVVVV
 
Last edited:

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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suprajztwenty;2008890 said:
the problem
at low throttle inputs/low rpms for about .5-1.5 seconds it seems to drop all spark

If that happened, the car would shut off. It would not be a misfire or hiccup.

only does this when it has a load on it/driving on road.

That is almost always an enrichment issue.

my prime suspect right now is the ignitor. its very hot to the touch but doesnt smell burnt and ive had the add'l ground since like the first month of ownership.
reasons i think the ignitor now
A: i had an IGF simulator in the system. everything worked well but its a suspect...

Pull DTCs. If you have an ignitor problem, you will have a code 14.
 

suprajztwenty

Member
Nov 5, 2009
369
0
16
corinth tx
i really think its lack of spark/ignition power. i just assumed the engine doesnt turn off due to the shortness of duration when this happens...and the fact that im rolling in gear with the clutch engaged. next time it does it ill kick the clutch in and see if it kills it, have a feeling it will, when it happens its really jerky sitting in the seat.

so, if it was injectors over fueling it would have to be ecu right?...but on all 3 drivers?

well atleast the ignitor im waiting on was cheap.

tips on next step to take?

thanks for the replys
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
As Nick said, what are DTCs if any? I see no mention of them even being checked for in that long OP. Second, if you're using a lambda sensor (and I'm assuming you are) to look at AFR, why do you think no spark = rich mixture?
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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suprajztwenty;2008958 said:
...and the fact that im rolling in gear with the clutch engaged. next time it does it ill kick the clutch in and see if it kills it, have a feeling it will, when it happens its really jerky sitting in the seat.

There is very little load without the clutch engaged (pedal out) and in gear.

suprajztwenty;2008995 said:
Sorry guys, fixed the problem by swapping my afm sensor. Thanks for the help

Enrichment.
 

suprajztwenty

Member
Nov 5, 2009
369
0
16
corinth tx
nailed it, once you said fuel i went out and looked and remembered i had a spare afm...wish i wouldve made this post 2 months ago.

thank you sir, im forever grateful
 

suprajztwenty

Member
Nov 5, 2009
369
0
16
corinth tx
i just over complicated things the night it just died out (alternator really was bad) and then it was blowing the fuse (derp dash wiring job)

this is my 3rd AFM now. i suspect its my HKS super duper ultra mega high "dirt" flow airfilter was causing it to crap out...that and the fact that ive never had the factory bracketry to mount it solid to the fender well.

ive never bought an actual new one so that could be it too, but if it happens again you bet your ass ill be buying new...or just say fuck it and go standalone early.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,894
38
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
suprajztwenty;2009062 said:
nailed it, once you said fuel i went out and looked and remembered i had a spare afm...wish i wouldve made this post 2 months ago.

thank you sir, im forever grateful

That will be $550.00