HG - What's best for my situation?

[Caplax40]

Okay, I have been pouring way too much time into researching what route is best for addressing the head gasket on my Turbo. I'm now to the point where I'm just confused as hell. So I'd like your guys' advice on what work needs to be done and what gasket to use. Here are the specs on the car:

-121xxx miles on original 7m-gte
-NEVER blown a gasket (this is preventive maintenance)
-If it matters my plans for power are not to exceed what the stock turbocharger can realiably produce
-Budget: I want to get it done right the first time and never have to mess with it again and be as reliable as can be. If this costs extra I'll do it. But obviously, I don't want to overpay.

I've read threads where some people say can use a revised OEM gasket, mill the head and be done; others say you gotta mill the head, block and get a MHG on there, etc.

Is there a clear and dry answer for my car or no?

Thanks in advance!

 

[bigal0043]

if you are going for more hp later on just go with a oem gasket... it will be a lot more forgiving than a mhg... most people will use either arp bolts or studs with the oem hg to make sure it stays on there... just make sure u torque it down 79-85 lbs is the range i believe most people say between
probally should still mill the head just to make sure its nice and flat

 

[NDBoost]

all in all its dependant upon the HP goal you have. A stocker HG will not last as long as a MHG will (given the MHG is on a prepp'd surface).

If your looking for high HP #'s go with a MHG. "deck/lap/machine" the block AND head use permatex brake quiet OR copper spray on the HG. use ARP studs tq to 80-90~ ft lbs and recheck TQ specs after 500~miles or so.

you should be good.

edit:
oh yeah and next time

 

[GrimJack]

Ok, here's the descriptions IMO.

Composite Head Gasket:
- Good for 300rwhp
- requires a non-warped head, so you'll need to machine the head.
- As long as your block deck is smooth, it should seal fine.
- Costs less for the gasket itself.
- Good option for guys who don't mind tearing down their engine if something goes wrong.

Metal Head Gasket:
- Good for 900rwhp
- requires a non-warped head, so you'll need to machine the head.
- Block deck needs to be flat and smooth, so pull the block and have it machined to a very fine RA (roughness average)
- Costs more for the gasket itself.
- Good option for guys who don't anticipate ever going into the motor again, or want that extra reliability.

 

[Ryanfz]

I'm kinda in the same situation as you... I'm just going to retorque the headbolts and turn up the boost alittle and wait until the gasket does blow, before I go about fixing it. "Don't fix it until it's broken."

 

[Nick M]

All head gasket jobs on any car really need a flat head and block. Smooth isnt as much an issue. Well, for the MHG it is.

-121xxx miles on original 7m-gte
-NEVER blown a gasket (this is preventive maintenance)

Times 5 for me. And one ride had 200,000. No rodknock either.

 

[jmcboost]

What's a reasonable price to pay to get the head and block ready for MHG? And when you take it to a machine shop, what should you ask or find out to make sure they can do it right?

 

[huntin5L]

Take your head and block to someone that knows how to machine it well. Don't take it to just anybody....Ask around.