Hey guys!!

[PorterzSupra]

Just wanted to get some ideas on this... I realized that when I start my car and drive it around normally for about 1/2 hour - 45 min when I race it will be alot faster and run much smoother then if I was only driving it for 5-15 minutes even if the temp needle is the same spot. There is something about driving it aronud for 1/2 hour or more that makes the engine run stronger, turbo spools up quicker exc. Any ideas? Also I think my 550's are topped out, when its cold for the first 3 minutes if my turbo spools even a little the engine gets very jumpy, after 3 minutes its normal and smooth. Not really a big deal but both of the issues got me thinking. " No I can't race right now I need like 20 minutes to warm my car up " lol Do u think the computer is adjusting fule curves? I have the maft

OH BTW check out my NEW video of me running with a 04 Lingenfelter Corvette Z06 twin supercharged 10-145 mph!!!!!

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17769

 

[Joel W.]

Yes, Just because the motor is warm according to the gauge, does not mean the tranny and diff are up to temps. I don't ever boost mine hard untill everything is fully up to temp. No clue on the ECU/Maft stuff...

GJ on the Vette..You hung in there well..

 

[mixmastermatt]

The ECU will adjust short term fuel trims based on current operating temps and O2 sensor feedback. From there, it will develop long term fuel trims. What you're probably seeing is once everything is fully warmed up, all the variables are at the best values, causing the ECU to advance timing, adjust short term trims to a leaner condition, and make the car feel more responsive. You could do this yourself, by removing 02 sensor feedback, controlling timing with something else and tuning to your specific AFR. Doing this and trying to operate under full load while something isn't fully warmed up will lead to breakage, though. For a DD, I'd trust the ECU to handle everything just for reliability. If it were a track car, then I'd want full control and be ready to pay to play if something broke.

 

[IJ.]

Porter: The temp gauge in our cars reacts very slowly and there can be a 10>20 degree difference with barely any needle movement (observed watching the temp readout on my standalone)

After 30 minutes driving EVERYTHING is up to temp so frictional losses are as good as they're going to get whereas if it's all cold everythings tight.
(This is why I think idling a car to warm it up then nailing it is a BAD idea)