well, my car has it...... 17000 miles into the new motor...
Oh well, it needed to come out anyhow. I guess its time to build a stronger motor
Oh well, it needed to come out anyhow. I guess its time to build a stronger motor
here we go again....rod knock
- Thread starter gixxer750
- Start date
C
cnewingham
Guest
minus running low on oil, is there past-the-threat-of-rodknock period? Will the threat of always rod knock exist?
In all the race engines that I ever through a rod in, the cause was:
-Low oil psi
-High oil temp
-Not breaking in the engine. We have found that if you let the engine idle (less than 1500rpms) for the first 30 minutes of its life, you're sure to spin or destroy a rod bearing.
-Ignition or load on the engine before oil pressure. For us supra guys.... DON'T LET YOUR CLUTCH OUT UNTILL YOU SEE OIL PSI.
-Low oil psi
-High oil temp
-Not breaking in the engine. We have found that if you let the engine idle (less than 1500rpms) for the first 30 minutes of its life, you're sure to spin or destroy a rod bearing.
-Ignition or load on the engine before oil pressure. For us supra guys.... DON'T LET YOUR CLUTCH OUT UNTILL YOU SEE OIL PSI.
damn gixx, sorry to hear it.
MCD, just a newb break in question. if you cant let it idle what do you do? start it up, waite for oil pressure and then rev it up?
MCD, just a newb break in question. if you cant let it idle what do you do? start it up, waite for oil pressure and then rev it up?
souprat said:
Typically, on a race engine (midget & sprint car) you wait untill oil pressure develops and then light the candles.
On a dyno or a break in session (first run of the engine) you prime the engine first.
Then light the candles and turn the idle up to 1500-2000 rpms for around 30 minutes.
Drain.
Refill with oil and inspect the oil that came out for metal.
well what is next on the list? How bout we break a cam next! Since your car is down can i borrow your brand new cam gears?:icon_razz
sorry to hear that man
this is kinda off topic but since im gunna be doin a rebuild for the same reason, what would you guys recomend for the breakin procedure?
this is kinda off topic but since im gunna be doin a rebuild for the same reason, what would you guys recomend for the breakin procedure?
well, the crank was turned .030 on the rods and .010 on the mains.
well when I built the engine I let it idle for about an hour on the first run.... Shouldn't have done that....
Another thing is, my stock oil cooler was stopped up before I upgraded and I didn't know it. It could have been high oil temps, the break in, the dry starts....
Yes justin, sealed power rod bearings, but I don't think the bearings themselves are at fault. I will be running cleavite bearings in the new motor....
I will put it this way about the new motor. I have a list of stuff I'm about to order. The total amount in price is $6200....
So it should be fun
well when I built the engine I let it idle for about an hour on the first run.... Shouldn't have done that....
Another thing is, my stock oil cooler was stopped up before I upgraded and I didn't know it. It could have been high oil temps, the break in, the dry starts....
Yes justin, sealed power rod bearings, but I don't think the bearings themselves are at fault. I will be running cleavite bearings in the new motor....
I will put it this way about the new motor. I have a list of stuff I'm about to order. The total amount in price is $6200....
So it should be fun
My "Theory" is when you go 20 under or more you're through the Toyota hardening so the crank is no longer resistant to scuffing if it comes in contact with the bearings.
This leads to more scuffing and more clearence in time you get to the point where the oil pump can't keep up at low rpm or during starts which you guessed it leads to more scuffing and eventually the "Little 7M man with a hammer" inside your motor.
This leads to more scuffing and more clearence in time you get to the point where the oil pump can't keep up at low rpm or during starts which you guessed it leads to more scuffing and eventually the "Little 7M man with a hammer" inside your motor.
IJ that is the funniest thing I have ever read! I completely agree. I just got rod knock from low oil pressure. It's super shitty, but I'm swapping in a turbo motor. I guess you could say it was for the better : )
Have you pulled the crank yet to see if it is a spun bearing or scored piston? Since you said in a recent thread about low compression in a cylinder.