Help with flat spot and more.......

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

Hi, I have had this problem with my supra 4 some time now with it having a flat spot around the 1200-1400rpm and only when iam on very light throttle, it just coughs and splutters around that rpm.

Also i have this problem with the car idling to fast when it is in drive and only when its in drive (can do 50kph + at idle)

I must admit that i had the car detailed and they used a pressure washer on the engine ( not happy jan):3d_frown: , and it stuffed up the idle, but got fixed ( replaced the airflow meter) but still having these problems.

Also with my auto trans, its a 5speed auto (sort of i guess) it has 1.2.3, then push in the overdrive button to get 4.5,( imguessing 5 is lockup converter) i have never seen an auto like it b4, and the MANU button?:wtf: any questions?

This is my first time here so still learnin, if anyone can help with any of the above questions i would be very greatfull.

 

[Nick M]

Change the plugs and wires. Or at least the wires, and pull the plugs and blow air in the hole and dry the plugs.

That isnt related to going 30mph at idle.

Do you have a high idle in nuetral?

 

[MDCmotorsports]

I've got the same flat spot, was fixed by leaning it out. I was HORRIBLY rich.

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

Change the plugs and wires. Or at least the wires, and pull the plugs and blow air in the hole and dry the plugs.

That isnt related to going 30mph at idle.

Do you have a high idle in nuetral?

Ok, I dont think its the plugs and leeds, but i do have a new set of plugs and will change them and see what happens. This all happened after i got the car detailed.

Yes its 30mph in drive at idle, and no the idle seems to go back to normal when in nuetral when car hits its operating temp.

Thanks.

 

[Nick M]

One other thing, your A340E is a 4 speed. The lockup converter eliminates multiplication and slippage, it doesnt change the ratio.

You arent in 1st gear at 30 mph at idle. Pull trans DTC's. Use the jumper wire just like with engine codes. You are in direct or O/D for some reason. The temp signal from the engine computer tells the trans computer what to do. Along with the TPS, but that isnt your problem.

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

I've got the same flat spot, was fixed by leaning it out. I was HORRIBLY rich.

Yes i think mine is a bit rich to, so how do i adjust it.

I have had the car on a machine to test all electrical systems and the only problem they found with it was the airflow meter whitch i changed.

Thanks.

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

One other thing, your A340E is a 4 speed. The lockup converter eliminates multiplication and slippage, it doesnt change the ratio.

You arent in 1st gear at 30 mph at idle. Pull trans DTC's. Use the jumper wire just like with engine codes. You are in direct or O/D for some reason. The temp signal from the engine computer tells the trans computer what to do. Along with the TPS, but that isnt your problem.

Ok cool, um no im not in 1st gear at 30mph, it would be in about 3 or 4 i guess, but if i lock it into 1st the rpm would reach close to 1500rpm at idle once it got up speed.

So the gear changes should be 1.2.3.4 then lockup converter for the overdrive, is that right. What are or is DTC's sry. Ive also noticed that it takes alittle longer in 1st to change up then in any other gear, and the car has made a terrible noise from the back of the motor, bell housing area (like its about to fall out) but has only done it 3 times b4 but only when ive drivin it in the wet?

Thanks again

 

[Nick M]

DTC is just diagnostic trouble code. The converter can lock up before O/D(4th). A locked up converter would make the car stall at low speed.

You have transmission trouble. I havent driven it, so it is a little tough to say.

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

DTC is just diagnostic trouble code. Th converter can lock up before O/D(4th). A locked ujp converter would make the car stall at low speed.

You have transmission trouble. I havent driven it, so it is a little tough to say.

Ok, bugger:cry: i was hoping that wasnt the case. O well ill get it checked out one day, when i get back to work.

Thanks for the help:icon_bigg .

 

[Nick M]

Your problem could be a valve body problem. That usually doesnt require a teardown to check either. The pan will get pulled, after DTC's are checked. If somebody else does it that is.

 

[Bishop92t]

Check your engine error codes as well. They might have damaged some electronics. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

Check your engine error codes as well. They might have damaged some electronics. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html

Yeah id say your right, they need a good uppercut for usin a hot pressure washer in the engine bay.:icon_evil

So how do i check the engine codes, do i use the diagnostic plug in or is there a self check way of doing it like the R31 nissan skylines RB 30 have.

 

[Bishop92t]

The super monitor can check engine codes, but that's a rare option. Just follow the link and use a piece of wire or paper clip in the T1 and E1 terminals .

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

The super monitor can check engine codes, but that's a rare option. Just follow the link and use a piece of wire or paper clip in the T1 and E1 terminals .

Ok, were is this link, and could you explain more about the T1 and E1 terminals plz.

Thankz:icon_bigg

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

Hi, i need to know how to leen my 7m-gte so its not running so rich, ive got told that this could be 1 reason why it has this flat spot.

It does run hot when goin up a long hill in summer or even on a call day for that matter but not as bad and only when the turbo is working.

I have pulled the guts out of the thermo and removed the rubber strip from back top of fire wall to let the hot air out and it seems to make a bit of defference.