Help what goes here?

[themadhatter]

i am working on the supra to day putting the intake manifold back on and on the cluster of metal wires there is an open port

i circled the open line can some on please tell me what connects to it i can't find any thing i didn't hook up so its driving me crazy

 

[jdub]

That goes between the #2 & #3 intake manifold runners to a small (short) hard line attached to the head (between the fuel rail & head), to the top hard line (next to L=200 on the diagram) on the forward cross vac on the 3000 pipe, to the BOV.

 

[themadhatter]

the supra is so much more complicated to put back togeather than any of the hondas i am use to working on lol theres no chance you could post a pcture could you? i beleave i know what you are talking about but i understand better by seeing it.

 

[jdub]

This is the best I can do...that's a really tight area to see. The blue vac line in the pic starts at the short hard line I talked about and goes to the 3000 pipe hard line. The connection at the bottom of the line in the pic goes to the fitting you have circled.

 

[jdub]

Just so happens I have the car up on the rack...here's a pic of the line from the bottom side...you can see where it connects to the fitting you have circled. It turns up, and if you look carefully, you can see the short hard line I described.

 

[themadhatter]

thank you jdub your the help! If i'm understanding you right, than it goes like this

.
Its hard trying to put a car togeather that you didn't take apart.

 

[jdub]

That is correct! There's a short hard line (3-4" long) that attaches to the head and goes between the rubber lines at about where you have the angle drawn.

And you're welcome

 

[themadhatter]

i figured it out when i put the lower intake back on i forgot to reintall the hard line:3d_frown: i would thank i could just run a long vaccum line sinse i forgot the hard line But what do you think?

 

[jdub]

That hard line is there to keep the rubber tubing from touching the head...if it melts through, your BOV will not function correctly. You can drop the hard line down from the top and you can get to the bolt that secures it from the top too.

Do this: Put a length of rubber tubing on the bottom, make sure there's enough to reach the fitting on the opposite side of the intake manifold. Drop the hard line down and thread the rubber tubing between the intake runners. Secure the hard line in place and reach down to connect the rubber line to the fitting you circled...cut off any excess with sissors.

 

[themadhatter]

That would mostlikly be a better idea jdub. So thats what i shall do. now for the hard part finding out where all these plugs on the harness go. thanks for the input jdub

 

[themadhatter]

o btw if those are pics of your engine it looks really clean and well done

 

[SublimeSupra]

Sorry what does the thermostat bvsv do?

 

[jdub]

o btw if those are pics of your engine it looks really clean and well done

Thank you...spent a lot of time on this motor. In fact, been working on it today installing an ATI dampner and a Greddy timing belt. Here's a couple of pics of when I installed it last year.

 

[themadhatter]

damn thats clean anuff to eat off lol. I noticed on the first pic in between your altenator and motor mount there is a block off plate. What is that for i have a machined flatspot on my block and it has 2 holes for bolts but no opening???

 

[jdub]

That's where the "J" tube for the fuel return line was. I'm using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator...you can see it in the 2nd pic on the drivers side shock tower. The line coming off the bottom of the FPR goes directly to the stock fuel return hard line to the tank. Made the "J" tube unnecessary.

 

[themadhatter]

o ok is your manifold painted or is it some kind of thermo coating? and are all the ss lines real or are some the imatation kind they sell because if there real you must be a big spenda lol

 

[jdub]

Almost every external part is ceramic coated...I do these coatings on the side The chrome is a 2000 deg rated coating...the blue is 1400 deg.

The stainless lines are real w/ AN fittings...and yes, they were expensive!

 

[themadhatter]

sinse i am planing on keeping my stock exhaust manifold could you coat that? and if so how much?

 

[jdub]

$95 for a stock exhaust manifold. It's coated on the inside as well.

You will need to look yours over carefully for cracks. Small cracks on the turbo flange opening is usually not a problem, but cracks on the runners or at the base of the flange are. I suggest hitting it with a wire brush to knock the rust off to see any cracks. they are most common between the runners and at the base of the turbo flange where it meets the runners. If you plan on getting it ported or installing an EGT bung, that needs to be done prior to coating.

The chrome coating will turn to a titanium gray (titanium is what gives it the heat resistance) on very hot parts like a manifold, turbine housing, or downpipe. All other parts will stay a shiny chrome. Getting the heat shields (turbo and manifold) done is a good idea...they do not lose their shine. The coating will not flake or chip due to heat.