HELP! - Transmission bolts nightmare

[dustyroads]

Does anybody know where I can get a chart or pic that shows where all the bolts go and their size when putting on an automatic transmission for an 87 N/A.? The TSRM is great for taking off and putting on, but does not cover the length (covers the size 10mm, etc) of the bolts or depict clearly where all the bolts go very well (my opinion).

I am installing a rebuilt transmission and had all my bolts separated in a tray and where they went, but......after installing about half of what I needed to, I knocked the tray over and now I am confused.

I am talking about the bell housing connecting to the engine (4 bolts - I think all long) and the remainder of the bolts(starter to the bell housing, the stiffener plate, the converter cover).

I have installed the extenion housing and I don't have to reinstall the bell housing to the transmission (6 bolts). The torque converter (6 bolts) has been connected to the drive plate. In fact I have installed everything the TSRM said to......except I have bolts left over!

 

[SkyHawk Ecks]

Sounds like me and my friends at the moment. We're currently putting together a new engine but we just started ripping crap off and not catergorizing them. It's going to be fun...

 

[Stretch]

Ya Skyhawl you're probably fudged. I did that too, but I still caterogized many of the bolts, and i have a pile of bolts i never know where they go and will never use again because of it. I have since been finding the lengths of each bolt I need and going to the bolt store and buying new ones for each :nono: Atleast they're all new and strong! grade 8.8 on metric scale is pretty friggin strong!.
eric

 

[mrnickleye]

Well, it seems the first 2 responces weren't very helpfull :3d_frown:

I have hunted around the books and the net (for me too, just to have a reference place to go for thr future), but found nothing that will tell the exact lengths. You can figure the size and thread pretty easy !

You'll probably have to check with the toy dealer parts dept. :aigo:

 

[Stretch]

Excuse me, but I talk to toyota about lots of parts, and when I order bolts from them all they know is what their computer tells them. I asked for specs they said they have no idea. All they know is where the bolt goes and the number, since they have the online tsrm also. I checked his screen and it was exactly what my comp at home shows me.
eric

 

[mrnickleye]

Excuse me, but I talk to toyota about lots of parts, and when I order bolts from them all they know is what their computer tells them. I asked for specs they said they have no idea. All they know is where the bolt goes and the number, since they have the online tsrm also. I checked his screen and it was exactly what my comp at home shows me.
eric

Well then, he'll have to do the same as you (buying some from store). I believe he (we all) can follow this 'rule of thumb' for 'most' applications.

For the amount of threads 'threaded' into the hole, you want approx 50% more than the diameter of the fastener. ie: 8mm diameter bolt should have approx 12mm of theads of it threaded into the threads of the part.

A few places will be 'blind holes' (bolt will bottom out if too long), and may require only threads as long as bolt diameter. Critical bolts (headbolts for one) must be the correct ones.

Now the 'shank' of the bolt (the unthreaded portion) must not be too long, as the bolt can 'shank out' ( stop turning before the head tightens down on the part you want to assemble). So...

Use something (longer bolt?) to measure the depth of the hole before you would start to thread the bolt in. Make sure the shank measurement of the bolt you intend to use is at least 2-4 threads 'shorter' than what you measured with the washer installed. ALWAYS use a washer on bolts and nuts unless specically not called for.

(I'm only trying to pass on some 'learned' knowledge here. Assembling over 200 jet airplane, and working with engineers, has taught me alot about fasteners.) :icon_bigg If someone needs more info on this crap, let me know.

 

[mrnickleye]

Oh, oh, I failed to read the original thread closely. He said he had bolts left over. Hmm......hope nothing falls out or blows up.

Also...on many apllication (like not too stressful ones) you can always go with a fully threaded bolt, as the shank is not whats keeping the parts tight. Especially the 6mm bolts. You just need a length that won't bottom out.

 

[Asterix]

grade 8.8 on metric scale is pretty friggin strong!.
eric

metric 8.8 = SAE grade 5
metric 10.9 = SAE grade 8

There are lots of ungraded and fake bolts out there, so don't count on the head markings in critical applications.

Asterix

 

[tte]

Or just call toyota and ask them....

cheers,
Roy

 

[SkyHawk Ecks]

Eh it's not bad. There is really only one spot where a bolt can go. And we'll have another Supra and the TSRM for reference.