I was actually think of doing that but didn't have any issues getting it off. I may do that as I got to get under the car to change the slave cylinder.
Help! Supra doesn't run right
- Thread starter Abe's 1987
- Start date
Swapped out the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder yesterday. Everything works good now. Unfortunately I was not able to take photos as it was too hot to be changing the parts and taking photos.
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Got me a new motorcycle to play with. This is my first motorcycle, new to riding. It is a 2018 KTM RC 390
Did install a new 3 inch downpipe from driftmotion along with my old exhaust from the 7m into the 1jz supra. Will get a couple pics of that soon. Will hopefully get new targa gasket and truck gasket to stop these leaks so I can leave this out in the rain with no worries.
Fun story, I went to take 5 for an state inspection for the supra. Man were the two gentleman there sooo excited to see my supra. They knew all about the mk3's and 1jz swaps. They even FaceTime a few friends and managers at other take 5 locations to show my beauty.
Did install a new 3 inch downpipe from driftmotion along with my old exhaust from the 7m into the 1jz supra. Will get a couple pics of that soon. Will hopefully get new targa gasket and truck gasket to stop these leaks so I can leave this out in the rain with no worries.
Fun story, I went to take 5 for an state inspection for the supra. Man were the two gentleman there sooo excited to see my supra. They knew all about the mk3's and 1jz swaps. They even FaceTime a few friends and managers at other take 5 locations to show my beauty.
Yes sir PI, plan to pass this on to my kiddos. Still slowly ordering parts as they come along.
Still really need to fix the targa top. I know Driftmotion sells new gaskets but has been out of my budget for some time.
Got me a dash cover to hide the cracks and prevent new cracks from forming. I think it was fairly good price at $45.
I see you have the rare super monitor in place of a standard clock. About one in 10 cars had this option before it was discontinued after 88. The option cost was $250. I found one on eBay and retrofitted my 1987, since the plugs for the harness were there by default. I usually leave it on MPG. It's really sensitive after you reset it. I do that on the interstate to see what my maximum fuel economy could be. Something like 24 to 26.
This is for them computer tech guys. I figured i would look into why my horn was not working and why the previous owner bypassed with a autozone switch for the horn. Diagnosed to the multifunction headlight, turn signal, windshield switch and noticed this break in the horn board circuit. Is this a simple solder repair or does this require a more precise repair technique? Should I attempt this repair or take it to a computer shop? I'd rather fix this then to spend $300 on another one. Connection between all other points are good until right here.
You have to wonder why this happened in the first place. Is it a rubbing contact? I would just carefully solder it after cleaning it with a brush or razor blade. Don't apply too much heat, or it could melt.
Not a rubbing point or does not come in contact with any other parts. Reading the continuity and voltage going to the horn all seems ok. Wonder if this was a bad part from another supra dropped in here. Will probably take this to a computer repair shop to see if they can fix it as they should have all needed materials to fix properly.
I do have a soldering kit but wanted to have a new trace put in as well as new solder mask to protect from corrosion. Plus my hands are not as steady as they use to be.
I did find a computer repair shop near me and one look the tech said yeah man that is a easy fix. He said he would have it done by tomorrow and only is charging $20. We will see the quality of work when I pick it up. This place has a ton of good reviews. The tech says he has repaired car parts including ecu, relays, ect.
Welp got the part back from the computer shop. Lol should have taken a picture of the finish product before I got too excited to test and installed it. He did a good job. Everything works properly for the horn now. Woot woot.
Now on to figuring the headlight issue. I'm thinking I have an issue with my integration retractor relay. Going to dive into this now.
Now on to figuring the headlight issue. I'm thinking I have an issue with my integration retractor relay. Going to dive into this now.
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Soo question, I have my driver door panel off and noticed this. Wondering what is this made of? Kinda looks to be some kind of board. I'm thinking if I fix this with fiberglass, would it work?
That sounds reasonable. Others have glued on thin strips of wood for reinforcement. Here's an example of that on the Supra Forum.
Click here to go there.
If I was to fix this, I'd do it much like with fiberglass, but with wood glue, sawdust, heavy paper, and solid wood.
I'd mix Titebond III and coarse sawdust to make a paste to fill in the big holes. The outside vinyl should hold it, but I'd make sure that doesn't bulge or get lumpy. Then, I'd glue down a layer of heavy paper (grocery sack) soaked in glue to hold the sawdust fill in place. You could also use thin cotton fabric (muslin) soaked in glue. After that, I'd glue down some thin strips of solid wood, like poplar. The sawdust/glue mix isn't all that strong, so I'd back it up with solid wood.
Titebond III is thinner than II and will work better for soaking into paper or fabric, but II may work better to make the sawdust/glue paste. You'll have to play around a little and see.
My repair linked above is holding great!
I'd mix Titebond III and coarse sawdust to make a paste to fill in the big holes. The outside vinyl should hold it, but I'd make sure that doesn't bulge or get lumpy. Then, I'd glue down a layer of heavy paper (grocery sack) soaked in glue to hold the sawdust fill in place. You could also use thin cotton fabric (muslin) soaked in glue. After that, I'd glue down some thin strips of solid wood, like poplar. The sawdust/glue mix isn't all that strong, so I'd back it up with solid wood.
Titebond III is thinner than II and will work better for soaking into paper or fabric, but II may work better to make the sawdust/glue paste. You'll have to play around a little and see.
My repair linked above is holding great!